tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65520639889107689082024-03-13T17:51:12.224+01:00footnotesA collection of occasional thoughts and recollections.Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.comBlogger92125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-74066169882792118502015-05-15T13:17:00.000+02:002015-05-15T13:17:17.407+02:00Another First Salute?<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHmJpkHMcamWFXStevBgx_Z6kFEDxT41AzWp6JT7-4mwBwsJ9j38u4ojM7AILqpdxJGmJJ48zqVQ-xDYrLg0L_CjUzIfIcJlXJR8jzgElqWRX-mwtPIVD5ieV8c2IMt6577nZL2gCxLRs/s1600/Danish_parlement.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHmJpkHMcamWFXStevBgx_Z6kFEDxT41AzWp6JT7-4mwBwsJ9j38u4ojM7AILqpdxJGmJJ48zqVQ-xDYrLg0L_CjUzIfIcJlXJR8jzgElqWRX-mwtPIVD5ieV8c2IMt6577nZL2gCxLRs/s400/Danish_parlement.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christiansborg Palace seat of the Danish parliament. (Alf van Beem) </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span lang="en-GB">The parliament and, in particular, the government
of Denmark on Tuesday, May 12, 2015, gave their support for a motion
supporting a democratic and peaceful dialogue between Catalonia and
Spain with respect to Catalonia's aspirations to self-determination.
During a debate seven of the eight political parties represented in
the Danish parliament supported the motion. A vote on the final text
was to be be held on May 19</span><span lang="en-GB">.
This unprecedented debate by a national European governing body has
perturbed the Spanish government which has been trying to counter
attempts by the Generalitat, or the government of Catalonia, to
promote the cause of self-determination on the world stage. With the
actions of the Danish parliament the Spanish government is faced with
a situation where a foreign government has given de-facto recognition
to the Catalan independence movement. This is something that the
Spanish government dreads. Instead of remaining a purely domestic
affair the debate on Catalan independence is on the verge of becoming
an international affair. This sort of de-facto recognition on the
part of the Danish parliament recalls a curious incident that
occurred 250 years ago. In that incident a representative of the
Dutch government for the first time officially saluted a vessel
flying the flag of the United States of America that had recently
declared its independence from Great Britain.</span></span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;">On November 16, 1776, the brig </span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><i>Andrew
Doria</i></span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"> sailed into the open and exposed
anchorage opposite Fort Orange on the island of St Eustatius, a Dutch
colony in the Caribbean. The </span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><i>Andrew
Doria</i></span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"> was flying the Continental
Congress flag, the forerunner of the Stars and Stripes. A few weeks
earlier on July 4</span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;">,
1776, the United States had unilaterally declared its independence
from Great Britain. The </span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><i>Andrew Doria</i></span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;">,
a small converted merchantman, was one of the first four ships of the
American navy. As the vessel sailed into the anchorage it fired a
thirteen-gun salute, one for each of the thirteen American colonies
that had declared independence. In return, and in accordance with
international custom at the time, the guns of Fort Orange fired an
eleven-gun salute.</span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;">The man who ordered the return salute was the
island's governor Johannes de Graaff. The firing of a few guns as a
salute may seem like an innocuous event but within the strict naval
customs of the time it had significant meaning. By his action the
governor recognised the flag of an independent and sovereign nation,
the United States of America. It is very likely that de Graaff's
action went against the wishes of the government back in the
Netherlands that was wary of upsetting the British. On the other
hand, the visit of the </span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><i>Andrew Doria</i></span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;">
was also of some importance to the tiny Dutch colony. What was
generally not appreciated at the time, and remains so even today, was
that St. Eustatuis played a small but very important role in the
denouement of the American revolutionary war in more ways than one.</span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;">The incident of the salute itself has over the
years turned into somewhat of a legend, yes it did happen, but
perhaps it was not the first instance of an acknowledgement of the
American revolutionary flag. There is some evidence that in October
1776 an American merchantman received a salute from the then Danish
island of St. Croix now part of the American Virgin Islands. More
recently the St. Eustatius incident was used by the American
historian Barbara Tuchman as the opening scene of her last published
book </span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><i>The First Salute: A View of the
American Revolution</i></span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"> (1988) an account
of American Revolution's influence on the 18th</span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"> century. In her book Tuchman wrote that, “In its responding salute
the small voice of St. Eustatius was the first officially to greet
the largest event of the century—the entry into the society of
nations of a new Atlantic state destined to change the direction of
history.” Whether the American Revolution was the 18th</span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"> century's defining event is debatable, the French revolution also
comes to mind, but it was certainly significant. And just as certain,
the little Dutch colony's response to the American revolution was not
without repercussions to itself.</span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5YSvX6I5y1xc3qvX2VLjGRW4WSo2bzahAxvFO-_hH7d02qyFOcAmHDf5Xq3Qtrjwgqwta5FPQ-VIz_aaRITE2dxYXxKgfPN8jhuqicR8b0FBq_rCRUhvUO9i5Mz8zI2dGoBS6GWymrxY/s1600/Andrew_Doria_NH_85510-KN.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5YSvX6I5y1xc3qvX2VLjGRW4WSo2bzahAxvFO-_hH7d02qyFOcAmHDf5Xq3Qtrjwgqwta5FPQ-VIz_aaRITE2dxYXxKgfPN8jhuqicR8b0FBq_rCRUhvUO9i5Mz8zI2dGoBS6GWymrxY/s400/Andrew_Doria_NH_85510-KN.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The <i>USS Andrew Doria</i> taking the salute from the St. Eustatius garrison, from a painting by Phillips Melville.<br /> She flies on her stern the Continental Congress flag and at the masthead the Dutch courtesy flag.<br /> (U.S. Navy Art Collection, Washington D.C.) </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;">At the start of the American War of Independence
the Dutch were of course neutral but their colonies in the West
Indies provided the American rebels with one of their few sources of
arms and ammunition. The British, who were careful not to set up an
arms industry in their restless American colonies lest it fell into
the wrong hands, imported their munitions from the mother country. As
a result the American revolutionaries had to find overseas sources
for munitions. Their problem was that the Royal Navy controlled most
of the sea lanes to and from Europe. One of the routes that the
British were unable to stop completely was through St. Eustatius.
Arms were smuggled from the Netherlands aboard Dutch or other neutral
ships to St. Eustatius and then transferred to smugglers for
transshipment to the American mainland. The British were aware of
this. But, in an age where ships were dependant on the fickle winds
blockading the islands was no easy task. This was was especially true
since a large part of the British navy was at that moment more
concerned with the direct sea approaches to the thirteen rebellious
colonies. In fact, the purpose of the </span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><i>Andrew
Doria's</i></span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"> visit to St. Eustatius was to
purchase arms and take them back to the rebels. When the vessel was
given an “official” welcome it raised the stakes as far as the
British were concerned, and they had to do something.</span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;">Although the salute may have seemed a minor incident it was of great
concern to the British as can be gauged by their reaction to it. At
first there were, of course, diplomatic protests made to the
government of the Netherlands. The governor, de Graaff, was recalled
to the Netherlands where he had to explain his actions. The Dutch
government could not have disapproved too much because de Graaff was
returned to his post on St. Eustatius. With the continuation of the
rebellion in their American colonies the British resorted to more
military efforts to stop the trade in arms coming out of the Dutch
colonies in general, and St Eustatius in particular. From the British
point of view it was very important that the arms trade in the
Caribbean be stopped. According to some sources the majority of the
arms reaching the American colonies were transshipped from St.
Eustatius. The island and de Graaff thus played an important military
role in the American Revolution. Tuchman wrote that governor de
Graaff, “[b]y intentionally encouraging, in defiance of his own
government, the Dutch trade in military armament to the [American]
Colonies, the Governor assured the continuance of shipments from St.
Eustatius, a critical factor in saving the American Revolution at its
frail beginnings from starvation of firepower.”</span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;">Eventually the deterioration of relations between Great Britain and
the Netherlands led to the Fourth Anglo-Dutch War (1780-1784) when
the British declared war on the Dutch. Soon after the declaration, in
February 1781, the British occupied St. Eustatius when they sent
overwhelming naval and army forces to the island. De Graaff who was
still governor was at the time unaware that a state of war existed
but he surrendered without resistance. There was only a small Dutch
garrison on the island and it was no match for the British. Despite
the peaceful surrender once in control the British devastated the
island. The British also came into possession of the account books of
various merchants and discovered to their consternation that some
British businessmen had also been supplying the American rebels. The
British occupation of the island lasted only ten months because late
in 1781 the French, by then allies of the Dutch and of the American
revolutionaries, captured the island in turn. Under the terms of
peace the island returned to Dutch sovereignty in 1784 under which it
remains to this day.</span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;">When the American Revolution flared up in 1775 the
government of the Netherlands was careful of not upsetting the
British and did not get involved. However, there was a curious mutual
attraction between the Dutch public and the American revolutionaries.
Although by late 18th</span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"> century the Dutch republic was much weakened and past its former
glory it remained an inspiration for the American rebels. The Dutch
republic had also been born of a struggle against tyranny in this
case by decades of war against Spain during the 16th</span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"> and 17th</span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"> centuries. For the Dutch who recalled their own wars for independence
the struggle of the American colonies fighting for the same elicited
much sympathy for the revolutionaries. On the other hand the British
themselves did much to garner sympathy for the American
revolutionaries in particular by the Royal Navy's high-handed
behaviour on the open seas. As the most powerful navy in the world it
stopped and searched at will neutral ships much to the annoyance of
many governments.</span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="western" lang="en-GB" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 100%;">There is a common thread between the Catalan debate in the Danish
parliament and the incident at St. Eustatius two and half centuries
ago. What is in theory an internal “Spanish” affair has suddenly
attracted the attention of outsiders. This attention confers to one
of the parties a level of legitimacy, of recognition, that the other
party has been trying to avoid. Soon after the debate the Spanish
embassy in Denmark downplayed its importance. It claimed that all of
the Danish political groups in favour of the motion said that the
debate between Catalonia and Madrid is strictly “an internal
affair” within Spain. Well, perhaps it is, but if more parliaments
both within Europe and around the world were open to discussing the
claim of Catalan self-determination then perhaps the Spanish
government will have to explain its unwillingness to deal
democratically with Catalonia's aspirations. After all, the motion in
the Danish parliament calls for nothing more radical than for a
democratic and peaceful debate. Catalan self-determination only
depends on the will of the Catalan public but gaining acceptance from
other nations will make it easier to achieve.</span></div>
Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-20684539366935926572015-04-23T13:15:00.001+02:002015-04-23T13:15:35.146+02:00Fixed-Seat Rowing Technique
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujc_gE26BWiPUCYIIKZjjUmO29mb_WNhwhw09XrxAKiyRqhPvr9tNNBHwalMO50ZVXlKRewHRC9a_sSVvI6PWaC7zklWWAhn5MReilidPAISHPQTPYGDmRMLFbC0X9CKKC0bNnrDAuzU/s1600/manuellosadalosremeros1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujc_gE26BWiPUCYIIKZjjUmO29mb_WNhwhw09XrxAKiyRqhPvr9tNNBHwalMO50ZVXlKRewHRC9a_sSVvI6PWaC7zklWWAhn5MReilidPAISHPQTPYGDmRMLFbC0X9CKKC0bNnrDAuzU/s1600/manuellosadalosremeros1.jpg" height="237" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Los remeros (the Oarsmen) by Manuel Losada</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
There is a dearth of literature on the technique of fixed-seat rowing
despite the fact that are many examples of fixed-seat rowing boats
including Basque <i>traineras</i>, Welsh cogs, English skiffs,
Faroese <i>grindabatars</i> or whale boats, Irish <i>currachs</i>,
Australian surfboats, Quebec ice canoes and Catalan <i>llaguts</i>.
There are other boats types with a more international scope such as
the Atlantic Challenge longboats that are based on 18<sup>th</sup>
century naval gigs. Most of these boats have origins linked to
specific climatic, geographic and cultural elements. For example, the
French-Canadian ice canoe originated from crossing the St Lawrence
River during the winter, which because of the strong currents and
tides rarely freezes solid. The Catalan <i>llgaut</i> was born of the
necessity of launching fishing boats off the beaches of a coast with
few natural harbours. Whale chasing in the Bay of Biscay is the basis
of the Basque <i>traineras</i>. As with many aspects of everyday life
in the past from the point of view of documenting, recording and
explaining traditional rowing, little appears in contemporary
literature. And it is a situation that continues today.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
In contrast to fixed-seat rowing, the literature on the technique of
sliding-seat rowing is extensive. Part of the reason for this
disparity is probably that sliding-seat rowing is an Olympic sport.
Rowing races go back to antiquity but it was not until early in the
19<sup>th</sup> century that boat racing became an organised
competitive sport in British clubs and universities. It was not until
the 1870s when the sliding-seat was invented, in the United States,
with the intent of deploying more of the power from the leg muscles.
Once the sliding-seat appeared, universities and clubs quickly made
the change. From the later part of the 19<sup>th</sup> century and
into the 20<sup>th</sup> sliding-seat rowing spread to most western
nations and became part of the Olympic movement. But the sliding seat
added a complication to the rowing stroke—how to keep the hands
clear of the knees. It was a problem that was quickly and elegantly
solved. To impart that solution to the wider rowing world, very soon
after the introduction of sliding seats, texts on rowing technique
began to be appear. Moreover, there were variations in the technique
of sliding seat rowing and various authors wanted to explain their
particular approaches.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
With the growing importance of Olympic sports especially after the
second world war there was a natural impetus to better understand the
physics of how a sliding-seat boat is propelled and how to make it go
faster. While sliding-seat rowing remained a truly amateur sport the
interest in such research remained relatively low key. Gradually,
however, through the 1960s and 1970s the amount of scientific
research increased. It was given a tremendous impetus by the rise of
the East German sports machine in the 1960s. That country's obsession
with sporting prowess pushed scientific research into all sports,
including rowing, to new levels and led investigators in other
countries to emulate that research. Of course, all of these factors
implied that more and more books, pamphlets and other texts on rowing
technique appeared throughout the 20th century. </div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Meanwhile traditional rowing remained just that, traditional, with a
few aficionados here and there who continued to row their particular
boats outside of the limelight. There was little scientific research
directed specifically at fixed-seat rowing, in fact, a situation that
continues to this day. That is not to say that traditional fixed-seat
rowing did not profit from the advances in sliding-seat rowing, it
did. This is especially true in the matter of materials such as the
use of fibre-glass, carbon fibre and other synthetic materials used
in the making of boats and oars. Today there are few manufacturers of
“traditional” boats and oars that continue to use wood.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Of course there is no reason why modern training methods developed
for sliding-seat rowing cannot be adapted to fixed-seat rowing. Any
coach training the crew of a <i>llagut</i> or <i>trainera</i> cannot
help but benefit from an examination of training methods used by
Olympic-style rowing crews. However, it is important to keep in mind
the differences between the two types of rowing. Fixed-seat rowing is
usually conducted on the open sea or large lakes and rivers where
conditions are very different from what is usually the case for
sliding-seat rowing which is limited to calm weather and protected
waters.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Even after the switch to sliding-seats many British rowing clubs that
focused exclusively on racing continued to teach the basics of rowing
in fixed-seat boats. Some coaches were of the opinion that learning
to row properly in fixed seat boats could be helpful for novices
before advancing to sliding seat boats. British rowing clubs in the
late 19<sup>th</sup> century would have several fixed-seat “tubs”
for teaching the fundamentals. Such boats disappeared from English
rowing clubs by the time of the First World War and were never much
used in other countries. This interest in fixed-seat rowing as a step
to perfecting sliding-seat rowing is obvious in R.C. Lehmann's
classic book <i>Rowing</i> first published in 1898. While the book is
mainly concerned with the technique of sliding-seat rowing Lehmann
has some interesting comments on the art of fixed-seat rowing that
are worth reading. Keeping in mind this lack of literature on
fixed-seat rowing it might be useful to offer a few comments on the
technique of fixed-seat rowing. </div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibydIjt8QDckzNCn4kaA6v6QZbcrmxhycM1E4DiHj9xAVJ9Y-gsepJyc6BU3tZcoNtgnLl2IfngJtuTULzrNLWDw8jlLmsb6m5bdxBf9NaFl3NfBHeWRNfr_DUXP4M6KCkv3834Sc1RNc/s1600/oldrowingimage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibydIjt8QDckzNCn4kaA6v6QZbcrmxhycM1E4DiHj9xAVJ9Y-gsepJyc6BU3tZcoNtgnLl2IfngJtuTULzrNLWDw8jlLmsb6m5bdxBf9NaFl3NfBHeWRNfr_DUXP4M6KCkv3834Sc1RNc/s1600/oldrowingimage.jpg" height="273" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An image from the book <em>Rowing</em> by R.C. Lehmann (1898)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
For convenience of discussion the rowing stroke is usually divided
into the drive and the recovery phases which are demarcated by the
catches and finishes. Of course, each stroke is part of a continuous,
seamless cycle that has no start or finish. It is during the drive
phase, with the oar blade immersed in the water and the rower
applying force to the oar handle, that the boat is propelled forward.
During the recovery, with the oars out of the water, the rowers can
relax somewhat as they prepare for the next drive phase. It seems a
fairly simple sequence of actions. In fact, looked at closely,
propelling a boat by the use of oars is a complex exercise. The rower
must perform a number of specific actions at the appropriate moments
while blending them into a continuous sequence that must be
maintained as one stroke flows into the next. And, each oarsman must
be in perfect synchronisation with the rest of the crew, while his
body is under a high level of physiological stress.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
If the boat, the crew and the oars are considered to be a single
system requiring an intricate set of actions undertaken at precise
moments in order move the whole, one then realizes how complex moving
a boat through the water is. Because of this complexity it is
essential that the crew members work in synchronization because any
small deviation by anyone will check the boat's run through the
water. While it is especially important that the catches and finishes
be in perfect time, it is also important that the bodies of the crew
swing backwards and forwards in unison. Of course it is not that
simple. A boat out on the open sea suffering the vagaries of wind and
waves will be impeded in its forward motion and tossed about. Under
such conditions there will be missed strokes, wash outs and crabs but
a good crew with experience can deal with such conditions by quickly
adapting or compensating. This ability to adapt comes only from
constantly training together as a crew. </div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLL7lIfYLLFAm1WeFmotIK8spsFrBDRiVy5EqDERqO8Jfos9loC6QXu62bYeIjR3_DORkqHgXR7B1Xe57mRQ9TVGIC1MTBVDsw4C3LIEKtTIUScsZGB-M9ZtBItYUxyLrlSpax2fzAD9M/s1600/icecanoeinseasmoke.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLL7lIfYLLFAm1WeFmotIK8spsFrBDRiVy5EqDERqO8Jfos9loC6QXu62bYeIjR3_DORkqHgXR7B1Xe57mRQ9TVGIC1MTBVDsw4C3LIEKtTIUScsZGB-M9ZtBItYUxyLrlSpax2fzAD9M/s1600/icecanoeinseasmoke.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An ice canoe on the St Lawrence River.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<strong>The Fixed-Seat Rowing Stroke</strong></div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Before examining the stroke a few points should be kept in mind. The
rower should be seated comfortably on the aft edge of the bench, or
seat, with the feet shoulder-width apart and the balls of the feet
resting on the foot stretcher. The feet should be lower than the
seat—with the top of the toes no higher than the lowest point of
the seat. The rower should push off with the balls of the feet in the
same way that a cyclist pushes a pedal, using only the forward part
of the foot. If the rower pushes off with the arch of the foot, in
addition to being uncomfortable and ineffective, the toes may
interfere with the oar handle especially in rough water conditions.
Power should is applied equally through both feet. The position of
the bench and foot-stretcher should be adjusted so that the knees are
slightly bent at the catch position—as the rowers lays back during
the drive the knees will straighten. The position of bench and
foot-stretcher relative to the thole pin should be adjusted so that
the rowers knees are in line with the thole pin. This is an
adjustment that requires the eye of the coach and should be done with
the whole crew in consideration.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The oar handle is held with the fingers not the palms of the hands.
The fingers placed loosely on the top of the handle while the thumbs
are on the underside. The hands are one to two hand-widths apart. The
little finger of the hand at the end of the handle should coincide
with the end of the handle or else leverage will be lost. If the
hands are too far apart the centre of effort will move away from the
end of the handle with a resultant loss of leverage. During the drive
the wrists are flat—the forearm and the back of the hand forming a
straight line. This is very important because if the wrists are bent
the tendency is to grip the oar too tightly, possibly causing the
forearms to seize up. The hands, or more accurately the fingers, act
to transmit the power generated by the back, shoulders and upper arms
to the oar and bending the wrists means that the forearms will be
tremendously stressed.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
In addition to its technical aspects rowing is a sport of endurance
and strength. Not all crews are out to race, many simply row for the
pleasure of being out on the water. But having a basic level of
fitness including endurance and strength will add to the enjoyment of
the sport. Simply going out and rowing will increase fitness levels
but if a crew is serious about racing it may be necessary to undergo
additional training such as running, weight lifting, ergo-meter
training, etc. A crew with the help of its coach must assess its
goals, and answer the basic question: what are its objectives? If it
is to simply row for pleasure two or three times week it is not
likely that additional training is necessary or even desirable.
However, if a crew has the goal of competing and winning specific
races then a rigorous training program may be necessary. In any case,
whatever a crew's objectives or fitness level they should strive to
develop and maintain good technique.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL6cMUpJlmvsjwxcuwbaKHfx6srXQNugKHq0G4Xfr-VbLXXEveN1If7vi8bK2XnAB6jklvDnEnWZ-eVsn1ILHwIci331MIoHsIjlmkFdsKWjigJbu1oC2OezRu5o9Vhqd_LtXpZoU_cvk/s1600/orio2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL6cMUpJlmvsjwxcuwbaKHfx6srXQNugKHq0G4Xfr-VbLXXEveN1If7vi8bK2XnAB6jklvDnEnWZ-eVsn1ILHwIci331MIoHsIjlmkFdsKWjigJbu1oC2OezRu5o9Vhqd_LtXpZoU_cvk/s1600/orio2.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Catalan<em> llagut</em> racing on the Orio River in the Basque country.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<strong>The Catch</strong></div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
A decisive and quick entry, or catch, is one of the most important
elements of rowing technique but mastering it is the most technically
difficult aspect of the stroke. That is due to the rower's relatively
unstable position at the catch position—bent forward from the waist
with arms outstretched. It is much easier to achieve a quick catch
rowing at half-stroke where the body is more upright. During the
recovery as the rower's body swings forward from the hips the hands
reach the ankles—any further simply results in over reaching and
needlessly stresses the lower back—the blade enters the water
quickly and cleanly. This is done by simply raising the arms and
hands, with the arms pivoting up from the shoulders.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The catch is critically important as it is the transition between the
recovery and the drive phases—when the bodies of the crew change
direction from astern to bow. That change in direction must coincide
with the catch or else the boat's run will be checked. With a quick
catch the blades will enter the water cleanly, with no back splash
and no unnecessary checking of the boat. The quick catch is followed
a gradual acceleration of the oar throughout the drive to the finish.
Only the blade of the oar needs to be immersed during the drive.
Going too deep with the blade is ineffective as it can cause the oar
to crab at the finish and it will slow the boat. On the other hand if
only part of the blade is immersed the oar will tend to wash out
making for a weak and ineffective drive.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkSh4q704rT0dEOPGvFLbR1vFKSRgnroogribcpz6akaOz2eoAaI0JuKIZgjhKhH1MCzzYf2sdue_DlUvtreAAh5Xeubu86xpcWKvgQggz7xoKZyQFmvjNT3U4r84zmj4yaEgnSdG9czk/s1600/Traineras_ena_bad%C3%ADa_de_Sanander.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkSh4q704rT0dEOPGvFLbR1vFKSRgnroogribcpz6akaOz2eoAaI0JuKIZgjhKhH1MCzzYf2sdue_DlUvtreAAh5Xeubu86xpcWKvgQggz7xoKZyQFmvjNT3U4r84zmj4yaEgnSdG9czk/s1600/Traineras_ena_bad%C3%ADa_de_Sanander.jpg" height="258" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Basque<em> trainera</em> from an old postcard.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<strong>The Drive</strong></div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Once the blade is immersed the muscles of lower back contract
providing most of the power for the drive but especially until the
body swings back to the vertical position. This implies the need for
strong back and abdominal muscles—the stronger the better. The body
swings through an arc from the lean forward, to the vertical position
and finishing with the lay-back. In fixed-seat rowing the lay-back is
much more pronounced than in sliding-seat technique. The arms remain
straight until the body has reached the vertical position. It is only
then that the arms really come into play and contribute to powering
the stroke. The arms and back should finish at the same time. As the
arms bend the elbows should stay close to the body, and not splayed
outwards. The hands come right in to the abdominals with firm
contact. Bending the arms at the catch or before the body reaches the
vertical position will result in a weak and ineffective drive. Even
with fixed-seat rowing the legs do contribute some power to the
stroke. At the moment of the catch the knees are slightly bent but
will straighten toward the finish making a not insignificant
contribution to the drive.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
How the generated force is applied during the drive can vary from
crew to crew. It is possible to employ a hard catch, or exert more
power in the middle part of the drive or to emphasise a strong
finish. This is a matter of variations in technique. I would however,
discount using a technique that emphasises a hard catch mostly
because of the stress this puts on the rower's lower back, especially
considering how heavy most fixed-seat boats are—some <i>llaguts</i>
weight as much as 300 kg. A hard catch also adds a vertical component
that is detrimental to moving the boat forward. It is more effective
to gradually accelerate the oar through the water emphasising either
the middle or finish of the stroke. Whatever technique is chosen the
blade must—this is very important—continue to accelerate in the
water right to the moment that the blade is extracted.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<strong>The Finish</strong></div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The acceleration at the finish is accomplished by using the arms to
quickly pull the handle into the abdominals. Acceleration of the
blade at the finish greatly facilitates its extraction from the
water. It is the secret to a clean finish. As long as the blade
accelerates there will be mass of turbulent water behind the blade
which will allow the blade to cleanly slip out. Once the blade leaves
the water, by quickly dropping the hands into the lap, the hands are
pushed away quickly from the body. </div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
One aspect of the stroke that varies between the various types of
fixed-seat boats is the feathering of the oars. In some boats the
oars are not feathered while in others they are. Usually feathering
is determined by the method used to secure the oar to the side of the
boat. There is no doubt that feathering is advantageous not only when
rowing into a headwind but also when rowing in turbulent conditions.
Most fixed-seat boats do not have oar-locks like those found on
sliding-seat racing shells which precisely control the angle that the
blades enter the water. There may be a single tholl pin to which the
oar is fastened to it by a grommet, or there may be a simple notch in
the gunnel. There is a complication when squaring the blade when a
tholl pin is in use. The oar and tholl pin combination means that the
oar shaft does not have a flat which allows it to seat itself to the
proper angle when the blade is square. That means that the correct
angle of the blade as it moves through the water must be controlled
by the rower, so that it neither digs or washes out. If the blade is
not feathered, it is a simple matter to hold the oar handle so that
the blade enters the water at the at the correct angle with each
stroke. In any case, the feathering action coincides with the drop of
the hands as the blade is extracted, and is accomplished by turning
the wrist closest to the tholl pin. To square the blade the wrist is
turned during the recovery but making sure that the correct angle is
set before the blade enters the water.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<strong>The Recovery</strong></div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Once the blade is clear of the water, the hands quickly move away
from the rower's body. As the arms straighten and the hands move out
over the knees, the body then swings forward from the hips. When the
hands move quickly away from the body it facilitates the body's swing
toward the stern. However, this swing has to be controlled, the
rowers should not throw themselves to the stern, rather they pivot
from the hips in a deliberate and controlled movement, even when
rowing at a high rate. The rower should have the sensation of
swinging forward and back both during the recovery and the drive
respectively, while keeping the hands moving at all times.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Recovery implies that the rower can rest somewhat and gather strength
for the next effort. Muscles should be relaxed, the grip on the
handle firm but not tense, and the head held up without tension in
the neck muscles. The recovery is also the part of the stroke that
will set the stroke rate. The speed of the swing forward determines
the stroke rate. Whatever the stroke rate, the hands should always
come away from the body as quickly as possible. By letting the boat
run of its own inertia, especially if there is a following wind, the
recovery can be lengthened (i.e. the stroke rate lowered). </div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<strong>Timing</strong></div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
It may be redundant to say that the timing, or synchronisation, of
the crew is of critical importance. The crew must make each and every
movement together: the catches together, the finishes together, the
swing in unison, the power application in the water must match. It is
of course essential in side-by-side boats like <i>llaguts</i>,
<i>traineras</i> and whale boats that the two rowers in the stroke
positions be in time. Whether the boat is in-line or side-by-side the
rate is set by the strokes and the rest of the crew should follow
them and no one else.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<strong>Finally....</strong></div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
It does no harm to emphasise again that good catches and finishes are
critically important. This aspect of technique is sometimes called
bladework. For some coaches of sliding-seat rowing it is their
primary focus when dealing with technique. They reason that if the
bladework is good the rest will fall into place: i.e. the rower's
body movements will adapt themselves to good bladework. While such an
approach does make some sense, good technique is more likely, in my
opinion, to be achieved sooner, and with less trouble, if the coach
works on both the bodies and the bladework simultaneously. When
assessing a crew's technique the catches are usually the element that
first catches the knowledgeable observer's attention, especially when
a boat is viewed from a distance. The instant a technically
proficient crew reaches the catch position, the blades will disappear
in a flash. A crew that has mastered quick catches and clean finishes
will likely have a high level of overall technical ability whatever
their level of fitness. A crew that has slow catches where the blades
pause in mid-air before entering the water is checking the run of the
boat, and will therefore be slower for its effort. A crew that has a
high level of technique can train and race harder because good
technique facilitates power application. Rowing in a boat where the
technical ability is high is a pleasure. Rowing with a crew with poor
technique can be tiresome and demotivating for everyone involved.</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMFVoM9loNNNCncEI2uzUfeoqEr5IP4IT3xVsTAlJ1Obqh2oD9sPhY8hdBl13CFmoX5zXGuHCu2F3AcySl_wAGN8GHWBriqR3LlrGxya0M4NIUP02-RgMi140ebmKuY8W-xflgWG4yytM/s1600/Homer-000015_jpg_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMFVoM9loNNNCncEI2uzUfeoqEr5IP4IT3xVsTAlJ1Obqh2oD9sPhY8hdBl13CFmoX5zXGuHCu2F3AcySl_wAGN8GHWBriqR3LlrGxya0M4NIUP02-RgMi140ebmKuY8W-xflgWG4yytM/s1600/Homer-000015_jpg_3.jpg" height="250" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Fog Horn, by Winslow Homer, </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">Bibliography</span></strong></div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"></span> </div>
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><em>Rowing</em>, Lehmann R.C., originally published in 1898. See especially
pages 14 to 37 for the author's comments on fixed-seat rowing. Even
though the book may today be considered somewhat long winded, and
typical of the era, for those with an interest on the history of
rowing it is worthwhile perusing.
<span style="color: navy;"><span lang="zxx"><u><a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/34950/34950-h/34950-h.htm">http://www.gutenberg.org/files/34950/34950-h/34950-h.htm</a></u></span></span></span></div>
<br />
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
</div>
<br />
<div align="justify" class="western" lang="en-GB" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
</div>
Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-48037176330511517432015-04-08T11:57:00.000+02:002015-04-09T09:47:37.788+02:00Edward Allcard is alive and well and living in Andorra.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0yZZiIwXEKPgILPyk7NrgpIyh6j8zv-HC0p4LqvUv4AYPM1VOmhDicDiZo9rUsycScv6Hi1O8JD9RLtVhZGtFQg3hmz6JE8FUM9hMm1DYj09uEdw7q8JcqRYb9TYvL-ASs2RnNIJkomI/s1600/IMG-20150403-WA0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0yZZiIwXEKPgILPyk7NrgpIyh6j8zv-HC0p4LqvUv4AYPM1VOmhDicDiZo9rUsycScv6Hi1O8JD9RLtVhZGtFQg3hmz6JE8FUM9hMm1DYj09uEdw7q8JcqRYb9TYvL-ASs2RnNIJkomI/s1600/IMG-20150403-WA0002.jpg" height="640" width="420" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The <em>Ciutat Badalona</em>, ex-<em>Johanna Regina</em>, sailing off Badalona.<br />
(Photo courtesy, Vincente Gracia via Severino Rubio)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Over
the last half-century or so </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">sailors
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">have
been</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
sailing long distances in small boats </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">on
a regular basis</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">.
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">It</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">is</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
now </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">considered
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">a
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">perfectly
normal </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">endeavour
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">and
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">that</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
even going solo </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">i</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">s
a sane thing to do. </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">But,
it was not always so. </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">In
the late 1890s</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Joshua
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Slocum
had led the way </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">with
his </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">solo
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">circumnavigation
and</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
there had been a </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">long
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">lag
before </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Harry
Pidgeon</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
followed in his wake. </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">There
was another lag after Pidgeon b</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">ut
then throughout the twenties, thirties and forties </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">the
numbers of</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">intrepid
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">sailors
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">who
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">took
up the call </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">slowly
increased</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">.
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">There
was a sort of Golden Age of small-boat voyages.</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
Some of th</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">ose
sailors </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">are
long forgotten </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">having
left </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">little
or no </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">record</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">s
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">of
their adventures</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">.</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">But
o</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">ther</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">s
thought that long-distance sailing would be of sufficient interest
that they wrote </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">books
about their adventures; among them, W.A Robertson, Alain Gerbault,
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Vito
Dumas, </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Eric
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">and
Susan </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Hiscock,
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Ann
Davison, </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Humphrey
Barton, Adlard Coles, and Edward Allcard. These sailors promoted the
cause of long-distance sailing, </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">and
of an alternative way of life,</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
with their published accounts, and </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">they
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">led
the way to today's explosion of cruising under sail. Those pioneering
sailors are all gone now except for one. Edward Allcard is alive and
well and living in Andorra.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;"></span></span></span></span></span>Allcard
was born in England in 1914 and learned to sail dinghies from an
early age. He qualified as a naval architect prior to the Second
World War. He made his first single-handed voyage in 1939 sailing
from Scotland to Norway and back. <span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">In
1948 Allcard set off to cross the Atlantic from England to the United
States aboard a 35-foot ketch, </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Temptress</span></span></i></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
a boat that had been previously sailed by Humphrey Barton</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">.
His account of that voyage was published as </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Single-Handed
Passage</span></span></i></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">.
His return across the Atlantic resulted in a marriage to a beautiful
Azorean stowaway that was noted in the international press of the
time. Allcard recounted that story in his book </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Temptress
Returns</span></span></i></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">. In the late 60s Allcard refurbished a fifty-year old boat <em>Sea Wanderer</em> in which he set out to circumnavigate at a leisurely pace. It took him 16 years to complete that voyage. During the 1970s he and his second wife </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Clare
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">discovered
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">a
wooden 70-foot ketch in the Caribbean. They repaired the </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
derelict</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Johanne
Regina</span></span></i></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background: none;">
</span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">and
with their daughter sailed it a</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">cross
the Atlantic to England and Europe</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">.
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Eventually
the </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Allcards</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
sailed the length of the Mediterranean and down the Red Sea to the
Indian Ocean </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">and
later to the Far East</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">.
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">In
this case it was Clare Allcard who wrote about their adventures
aboard </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">Johanne
Regina</span></span></i></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
in a book entitled </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">The
Gypsy Life</span></span></i></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;">
published in 1992.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background: none;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Some
time ago the crew and supporters of the sailing vessel <i>Ciutat
Badalona</i> gathered in the small auditorium down by the port of
Badalona, a Catalan town just northeast of Barcelona, to listen to
a presentation by Clare Allcard. The gathering was a celebration and presentation of
the Catalan translation of <i>The Gypsy Life </i><span style="font-style: normal;">published
under the title of </span><i>Rodamons </i><i>de la Mar</i><span style="font-style: normal;">.</span><span style="font-style: normal;">
</span>The significance of the Catalan translation of Clare's book is that the <i>Ciutat Badalona</i> is the former <i>Johanne
Regina</i>. The <i>Ciutat Badalona</i> is now owned by the city of
Badalona and serves as a sail training vessel. When the Allcards sold
their vessel in 2006 they retired to Andorra, a small independent
state, straddling the French-Spanish border in the mountains of the
Pyrenees. The official language of Andorra happens to be Catalan,
also the <i>lingua franca</i> aboard <i>Ciutat Badalona</i>. So when
Clare made her presentation in Catalan it was much appreciated
by those in attendance.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">During
her talk Clare recounted some of the anecdotes that readers of
the original English edition of her book would already be familiar
with but she also added some others not in the book. She did express
her appreciation to what has happened to the <i>Johanne Regina</i>
since the Allcards had sold her. Realizing that she and her husband
were getting too old to manage such a large vessel—<i>Ciutat
Badalona</i> is 24.07 metres LOA and 70 tonnes displacement—they
sailed to Catalonia and moored in Torredembarra harbour near
Tarragona while they set up their retirement home in Andorra. <i>Johanne
Regina</i> was moored for ten years in Torredembarra while Edward
frequently and faithfully drove down from Andorra to attend to her
maintenance. For a long time the Allcards feared they would not be
able to sell the vessel and that she would have to be abandoned and
scrapped.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">At
some point during her long stay at Torredembarra the <i>Johanne
</i><i>Regina</i> caught the attention of Marcel Mongay and Maria
Mascarenas who befriended the Allcards. Marcel, a retired merchant
marine captain, and Maria had a vision for the vessel of which they
tried to convince the Badalona city council. Like most towns and
villages along the Catalan coast Badalona has a rich maritime
tradition and it was the intention of Marcel and Maria to not only
preserve that heritage but to somehow bring it to life. They wanted
the city to buy the <i>Johanne Regina</i> and to convert her to a
sail training vessel to be based in the municipal harbour. It took
some convincing of the mayor and councillors but in 2006 the sale was
completed. With Marcel and Maria aboard, the Allcards sailed <i>Johanne
Regina</i> up the coast to Badalona. As Clare writes in the epilogue
of the Catalan translation, “the <i>Johanne</i> had found a new
home.” The Allcards never expected that the vessel would become a
sail training project for a group of aficionados.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The
<i>Ciutat Bad</i><i>a</i><i>lona</i>, ex-<i>Johanne </i><i>Regina</i>,
is a Baltic Sea trading ketch built in Faborg, Denmark, in 1929. The
vessel was originally named <i>Marie</i> and she was typical of small
coastal trading vessels built at the time, she hauled potatoes to the
market in Copenhagen. The <i>Marie</i> was launched without an engine
but provision had been made for the future installation of one—she
now boasts a 400 horsepower diesel. The ketch rig was typical of
these vessels, handy for a small crew, and I am reminded of the
coasting and fishing schooners of the Canadian Maritime provinces
from the same era. The <i>Marie</i> changed hands in the late
thirties and was renamed <i>Johanne Regina</i> but continued at her
trade of hauling potatoes even during the war. Later she somehow
ended up in the Caribbean working as an inter-island trader. When the
Allcards found her Antigua she was in a much dilapidated state. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Now
the <i>Ciutat Badalona</i> is looked after by a group of volunteers
under the auspices of the <i>Associació Amics del Quetx Ciutat
Badalona</i> (<i>Association of the Friends of the Ketch Ciutat
Badalona</i>). Many of the volunteers are older retirees who perhaps
are making up for missed dreams of sailing when they were young. The
“friends” sail <i>Ciutat Badalona</i> on a regular basis
throughout the year. In the fall of 2013 she participated in the Tall
Ships regatta from Barcelona to Toulon and La Speciza gaining a third
place in one of the legs for her category. The volunteers undertake
maintenance of the vessel and Clare says that <i>Ciutat Badalona</i>
has never looked better. Like any wooden vessel of this size she
needs a fair amount of attention. She spent several months out of the
water during the winter of 2012-13 which allowed for attending to
much of her woodwork below the waterline. Still more work goes on.
The main top mast was replaced after the old one broke in a moderate
breeze. Just recently rot was discovered in the bowsprit and it had
to be replaced. She could use a new suit of sails meanwhile her
existing suit of Lucas & Sons sails is repaired as needed. On the
other hand <i>Ciutat Badalona</i><i>'s</i> a new diesel engine is
looked after by a fanatical cadre of volunteers some of whom happened
to be retired mechanics.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Also
in attendance at the presentation of Clare's book was Edward. It was
Clare's night so Edward stood aside. In October 2014 Edward, hale and hearty,
celebrated his 100<sup>th</sup> birthday with his family and friends
at home in Andorra. Queen Elizabeth sent a note expressing her best
wishes. Edward is part of a small brotherhood of the sea whose
exploits have inspired other sailors. Today ocean crossings by small
vessels are common place. Every year hundreds of vessels cross the
Atlantic and circumnavigations are now so common that they have lost
their news worthiness. Although Edward and Clare Allcard have now
retired, and living in the Pyrenees far from the seas, their books will
continue to inspire others in following in their wake. Meanwhile
their old ship will be teaching and developing new sailors.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh077nlgk-BEdVLfJF4TMIrZvj5Osq1qZtv18xwKMMu8crW5czpJ-z9MZFxhpdZYHKqZrhyphenhyphenImxg3BJpULWZ9s1q9Erq5v1BpY5LTlarZ3kXQAaupO7sa4QL0ACEFPRIgs5d6TzPO75VxOY/s1600/_MG_8877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh077nlgk-BEdVLfJF4TMIrZvj5Osq1qZtv18xwKMMu8crW5czpJ-z9MZFxhpdZYHKqZrhyphenhyphenImxg3BJpULWZ9s1q9Erq5v1BpY5LTlarZ3kXQAaupO7sa4QL0ACEFPRIgs5d6TzPO75VxOY/s1600/_MG_8877.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The <em>Ciutat Badalona</em> off Barcelona just after the start of the first leg<br />
of the 2013 Tall Ship Race (Photo courtesy, Severino Rubio)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJqcRVDK_5_gi8sdJ_hUaGNwv48QLox44-ZF5R4q3coQ4aVw7Rz1WkgIJAY7cE8rvHp6hzEv0GBuOAFRZ5VRYF3vSLwBNP2J8YizCg44NSFJvbGSFThOjRWp0q6W9F8sVHgfNoOjQQl28/s1600/DSC_0849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJqcRVDK_5_gi8sdJ_hUaGNwv48QLox44-ZF5R4q3coQ4aVw7Rz1WkgIJAY7cE8rvHp6hzEv0GBuOAFRZ5VRYF3vSLwBNP2J8YizCg44NSFJvbGSFThOjRWp0q6W9F8sVHgfNoOjQQl28/s1600/DSC_0849.JPG" height="132" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The author speaking with Edward Allcard.<br />
(Photo Courtesy, Pere Alemany)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">It was Clare's night so Edward stood aside but I did get the chance to briefly speak with him. I
had hauled down my copies of <i>Single Handed Passage</i> and
<i>Temptress</i><i> </i><i>Returns</i> and he was kind enough to sign
them. I also had my copy of <i>The Gypsy Life</i> and bought a copy
of <i>Rod</i><i>a</i><i>mons de </i><i>la </i><i>Mar</i> which Clare
also signed. Edward mentioned to me that he had recently finished
writing another book, presumably the second part of his account of
his traverse of the Pacific back in the 1960s the continuation<span style="font-style: normal;">
of his 16-year long solo circumnavigation aboard <em>Wanderer</em></span>.</span> </span>Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-37056757499084193692015-03-20T23:05:00.000+01:002015-03-22T15:48:34.423+01:00La tècnica de remar amb banc fix<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnk1l9oBZ-e2nbwGMDen_rQMh7plWC280dFthLMhwttvceAptXb5mvLnyfVukArxamLtkEdJriYBWiZxKWM0iT9WxqYHpmEZYwiNzZWmYPkBA5fc8ogvaLlpg-YEY4ZXZT1eeRRaGL3qk/s1600/manuellosadalosremeros1.jpg" height="237" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Los remeros, Manuel Losada (1865-1949) Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></span><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">
</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">
<span lang="ca-ES">Hi ha una manca de literatura sobre la tècnica de
remar </span><span lang="ca-ES">amb</span><span lang="ca-ES"> banc
fix. Això és sorprenent perquè hi ha molts exemples per tot el món
de barques de rem que utilitzen el banc fix, incloent-hi </span><span lang="ca-ES"><i>traineras</i></span><span lang="ca-ES">
Basques, </span><span lang="ca-ES"><i>cogs</i></span><span lang="ca-ES">
de Gal-les, </span><span lang="ca-ES"><i>skiffs</i></span><span lang="ca-ES">
angleses, canoes de gel quebequesos, </span><span lang="ca-ES"><i>grindabatars
</i></span><span lang="ca-ES"><span style="font-style: normal;">de les
illes de Faroe, </span></span><span lang="ca-ES"><i>currachs</i></span><span lang="ca-ES"><span style="font-style: normal;">
d'Irlanda, </span></span><span lang="ca-ES"><i>surfboats</i></span><span lang="ca-ES"><span style="font-style: normal;">
de les platges d'Austràlia, i llaguts catalans. Hi ha altres
exemples de barques que tenen un abast més internacional com els
</span></span><span lang="ca-ES"><i>longboats</i></span><span lang="ca-ES"><span style="font-style: normal;">
de la competició Atlantic Challenge que deriven de barques del segle
XVIII que eren part dels equipaments dels vaixells de guerra en
aquella època. La majoria d'aquests tipus de vaixells tenen orígens
lligats amb elements específics de clima, geografia, i cultura. Per
exemple, a Quebec l'origen de la canoa de gel és deu a la necessitat
per un mitjà de transport per travessar el riu Sant Llorenç durant
l'hivern que, a causa dels corrents i marees, poques vegades es
congela. El llagut català va néixer de la necessitat de llançar
els vaixells de pesca enfront de les platges al llarg d'una costa amb
molts pocs ports protegits. La caça de balenes al golf de Biscaia és
el base de les </span></span><span lang="ca-ES"><i>traineras</i></span><span lang="ca-ES"><span style="font-style: normal;">
basques. Igual que amb molts aspectes de la vida quotidiana del
passat, des del punt de vista de la documentació, registre i
explicació, del rem tradicional hi ha poca literatura contemporània.
I és una situació que continua en l'actualitat. </span></span></span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span lang="ca-ES"><span style="font-style: normal;"></span></span></span> </div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span lang="ca-ES"><span style="font-style: normal;"></span></span></span><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">En contrast, la literatura sobre la tècnica del rem de banc mòbil
és molt extens. La raó per aquesta disparitat és probablement
perquè ja fa molts anys el rem amb banc mòbil és un esport
olímpic. Curses i regates de rem remunten a l'antiguitat, però no
va ser fins als principis del segle 19 que les carreres de barques es
van convertir en un esport competitiu i organitzat en clubs i
universitats britàniques. Va ser a la dècada de 1870 quan el banc
mòbil es va inventar, en els Estats Units, amb la intenció de
desplegar més de la potència dels músculs de les cames. I molt
aviat aquells clubs I universitats van realitzar el canvi en favor
del banc mòbil. Des dels voltants de 1880 i fins al començament del
segle 20 l'esport de rem amb banc mòbil es va estendre a la majoria
dels països occidentals. Però, el banc mòbil afegeix una
complicació a la palada: com mantenir les mans allunyades dels
genolls. Per descompte, va ser un problema que es va solucionar
ràpidament i elegantment. No obstant això, era necessari impartir i
comunicar aquesta solució per al món del rem més ampli i molt puc
després de la introducció del banc mòbil textos sobre aquesta
tècnica es van publicar. D'altra banda, hi va haver variacions en la
tècnica del banc mòbil i diversos autors volien explicar els seus
enfocaments particulars.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Amb la creixent importància dels esports olímpics, especialment
després de la segona guerra mundial hi va haver un impuls natural
per entendre millor la física de com les barques de banc mòbil
estan propulsades i com fer que vagin més ràpids. Mentre que el rem
de banc mòbil es mantenia com un esport veritablement d'amateurs
l'interès en aquests tipus d'investigació era relativament menor. A
poc a poc, però, a través els anys dels 1950 i 1960 la quantitat
d'investigació científica va augmentar. Se li va donar un gran
impuls per l'alça de la màquina esportiva que va ser l'Alemanya de
l'Est en les dècades dels 1960 i 1970. L'obsessió d'aquest país
amb la proesa esportiva va empènyer la investigació científica en
tots els esports, inclòs el rem, i va impulsar altres països a
emular aquestes investigacions. Evidentment, tots aquests factors
implica que més i més llibres, papers científics i fullets sobre
la tècnica del banc mòbil es publicaven duran tot el segle 20.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"></span> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></span><br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqerNTsOd_TTdT0K9PrNUi99kVNmWRLf8HfSFTVuKLXVlRLtuQCol_8Erd6gHfvyxfJYShWE8dGhdRXvDaofEQQAxx1N6SJKYbYxkmRU4CQcwSi5iHXF35xW0l5nfYHuYkq49msyhtglQ/s1600/Traineras_ena_bad%C3%ADa_de_Sanander.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqerNTsOd_TTdT0K9PrNUi99kVNmWRLf8HfSFTVuKLXVlRLtuQCol_8Erd6gHfvyxfJYShWE8dGhdRXvDaofEQQAxx1N6SJKYbYxkmRU4CQcwSi5iHXF35xW0l5nfYHuYkq49msyhtglQ/s1600/Traineras_ena_bad%C3%ADa_de_Sanander.jpg" height="258" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Una trainera de una postal vella</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"></span> </div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Mentrestant el rem tradicional es va quedar en això, tradicional,
amb alguns aficionats per aquí i per allà que van continuar remant
les seves barques particulars afora de la llum. Hi va haver poca
investigació científica sobre el rem de banc fix, de fet, una
situació que continua fins avui dia. Però no vol dir que el rem
tradicional no ha aprofitat dels avanços en el rem de banc mòbil,
ho va fer. Això és especialment cert en l'assumpte de materials com
fibra de vidre, fibra de carboni i altres materials sintètics usats
en la fabricació de rems i barques. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Per descompte no hi ha cap raó perquè els mètodes moderns
d'entrenament desenvolupats pel rem de banc mòbil no es poden usar o
adaptar pel rem de banc fix. Qualsevol entrenador que entrena una
tripulació de llagut o trainera no pot deixar de beneficiar-se d'un
examen dels mètodes utilitzats pels equips de banc mòbil. Però, és
important tenir en compte les diferenciés entre els dos tipus de
rem. El rem de banc fix es realitza normalment en alta mar or grans
llacs i rius on les condicions són molts diferents de les de rem de
banc mòbil que es limiten en aigües tranquil·les i protegides. És
amb aquests antecedents en ment que aquesta nota sobre la tècnica
del rem de banc fix es presenta.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Fins i tot després del canvi a banc mòbil molts clubs de rem en la
Gran Bretanya que és centraven exclusivament en competició van
continuar ensenyant els fonaments en barques de banc fix. Alguns
entrenadors eren de l'opinió que aprendre de remar bé en barques de
banc fix pudia ser d'utilitat pels novells abans d'avençar al banc
mòbil. Molts clubs tenien unes barques de banc fix que es deien
«tubs», o «banyares» en anglès, per ensenyar els fonaments.
Aquestes barques van desaparèixer dels clubs per l'època de la
primera guerra mundial i mai van ser molts utilitzats en altres
països. Aquest interès en el banc fix com un pas per perfeccionar
la tècnica del banc mòbil és obvi en el llibre de R.C. Lehmann que
es titula <i>Rowing</i> i publicat en 1898. El llibre és un text de
la tècnica del banc mòbil però Lehmann fa alguns comentaris del
banc fix que val la pena llegir i estudiar.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"></span> </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio3tVM1kowb34S07VAUkXpLfSR3EPP4nA6QRWu0V73eryJEWozNZi1u678NKb-UDTcM_dRU9idEkeLJoF0XFPsKqkHKgyxvp6bYJWKi42_a1GWDGNEf6K6GvWz25uTneR9-TBOHROwXW4/s1600/oldrowingimage.jpg" height="272" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un imatge presa del llibre Rowing de R.C. Lehmann publicat en 1898.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio3tVM1kowb34S07VAUkXpLfSR3EPP4nA6QRWu0V73eryJEWozNZi1u678NKb-UDTcM_dRU9idEkeLJoF0XFPsKqkHKgyxvp6bYJWKi42_a1GWDGNEf6K6GvWz25uTneR9-TBOHROwXW4/s1600/oldrowingimage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"></span></a><br /></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Tenint en compte aquesta manca de literatura sobre la tècnica del
banc fix, podia ser útil oferir alguns comentaris sobre aquesta
tema. Permeti'm dir que aquestes són opinions personals basades en
les meves experiències de rem en la canoa de gel, el llagut català
i bots de rem per iots. Puc contrastar la meva experiència de banc
fix amb tres dècades de rem amb banc mòbil. Hi pot haver alguns que
qüestionen, i potser no estan d'acord amb les meves opinions, però
estic obert a discutir qualsevol suggeriment o correcció dels que
llegeixen aquest assaig.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><strong>La palada del banc fix</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Per la convivència de discussió la palada es divideix generalment
en dues fases, la recuperació i la passada, i les dues fases són
marcades per les entrades i sortides de la pala dins i afora de
l'aigua. Per descompte, en realitat cada palada és part d'un cicle
continu i sense parades que no té ni principi ni fi. És durant la
fase de la passada, amb la pala del rem submergit i amb l'aplicació
de la força de l'atleta, que la barca és impulsada cap endavant.
Duran la recuperació, amb els rems fora de l'aigua, els vogadors
poden recuperar una mica mentre que es preparen per a la pròxima
fase d'empenta. La palada sembla ser una seqüencia d'accions bastant
simples o senzilles. De fet, mirant de prop, impulsar una barca amb
l'ús de rems és un exercici molt complex. El vogador ha de
realitzar una sèrie d'accions específiques en els moments
apropiats, que sa de mantenir una palada després de l'altre. Per
descompte, cada vogador ha d'estar en perfecta sincronització amb la
resta de la tripulació, mentre que el seu cos està sota un alt
nivell d'estres fisiològic. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Si la barca, la tripulació, inclòs el timoner, i els rems es
consideren com un sol sistema que requereix una intricada sèrie
d'accions dutes a terme en moments precisos per moure el conjunt,
llavors un s'adona com complex és moure un vaixell a través
l'aigua. A causa d'aquesta complexitat, és essencial que tots els
membres de la tripulació treballen en perfecta sincronització, ja
que qualsevol petita desviació per ningú impedirà el moviment de
la barca. Mentrestant, és especialment important que les entrades i
sortides dels rems siguin alhora, també és important que els cossos
de la tripulació estiguin en ritme—que tinguin «swing» per
dir-ho en anglès. És clar que en realitat no és tan senzill. Una
barca en el mar obert ha de patir els capritxos del vent i les
onades, i el seu moviment estarà impedit i sacsejat. En aquestes
condicions hi haurà palades perdudes, mistos i enganxós, però una
bona tripulació pot fer front amb aquestes condicions mitjançant
l'adaptació i compensació. Aquesta capacitat d'adaptació prové
només de la formació i entrenament constant de la tripulació. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Abans d'examinar la palada hi ha alguns punts per tenir en compte. El
vogador, o la vogadora, ha d'estar assegut còmodament en la vora de
popa del banc amb els peus a l'ample d'espatlles, i les puntes dels
peus que empenyien contra la fusta de la pedalina. Els peus han
d'estar més baixos que el banc amb la part superior dels dits dels
peus que no superin el punt més baix del banc. El vogador ha
d'empènyer amb els coixinets dels peus de la mateixa manera que un
ciclista empeny el pedal utilitzant només la part davantera del peu.
Si el vogador empeny amb els arcs dels peus, a més de ser incòmode
i ineficaç, els dits dels peus poden interferir amb el mànec del
rem especialment en condicions d'aigües turbulentes. L'esforç s'ha
d'aplicar igual pels dos peus. Els posicionaments del banc i la
pedalina s'han d'ajustar de manera que els genolls estan una mica
doblegats en el moment de l'entrada de la pala a l'aigua—quan el
vogador estar a punt de treure la pala fora de l'aigua els genolls
estan gairebé rectes. La posició del banc i la pedalina en relació
amb l'escalemera s'han d'ajustar de manera que els genolls del
vogador estan en línia amb l'escalemera. Això es tracta d'un
ajustament que necessita l'ull de l'entrenador i s'ha de fer amb
consideració de tots els vogadors de la barca. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">El mànec del rem se sosté amb els dits i no amb els palmells de les
mans. Els dits estan col·locats lliurement a la part superior del
mànec, mentre que els polzes estan en la part inferior. Es manté
les mans amb una separació d'una mà. El dit petit de la mà més
lluny de l'escalemera ha de coincidir amb la punta extrema del mànec,
o bé és perdre palanquejament. Amb les mans massa separades el
centre d'esforç s'allunya de l'extrem del mànec, amb el resultat
que es perdre palanquejament. Durant la fase de palanca els canells
es mantenen pla—l'avantbraç i la part posterior de la mà fan una
línia recta. Això és molt important perquè, si els canells es
dobleguen, la tendència és per agafar el rem amb massa força, el
que pot causar que els avantbraços es paralitzen. Les mans, o més
exactament els dits, actuen per transmetre al rem l'energia generada
per l'esquena, les espatlles, i els braços, i la flexió dels
canells significa que els avantbraços estan molt estressats.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">A més dels aspectes tècnics del rem, en tant del banc fix com el
banc mòbil, és un esport de resistència i força. No totes les
tripulacions estan interessades competir en regates, moltes
simplement ramen pel plaer d'estar en i gaudir del mar. No obstant
això, tenir un nivell bàsic de condicionament incloent resistència
i força augmenta el gaudiment de l'esport. Simplement sortir i remar
augmentarà els nivells de condicionament, però si un equip vol
competir i guanyar regates, pot ser necessari fer formació
complementaria, com córrer, aixecar pesos, entrena en l'ergo-metre,
etc. Cada equip amb l'ajuda del seu entrenador ha d'avaluar els seus
objectius i trobar la resposta a la pregunta bàsica: Que són els
nostres objectius? Si es tracta de remar simplement per plaer dos o
tres cops per setmana no és probable que l'entrenament addicional és
necessari i fins i tot desitjable. No obstant això, si un equip té
l'objectiu de competir i guanyar regates específiques llavors un
rigorós programa d'entrenament pot ser necessari. En qualsevol cas,
sigui quina sigui els objectius d'una tripulació o el seu nivell de
condició física, s'ha d'esforçar per desenvolupar i mantenir una
bona tècnica. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ZWHYxyCZwhOzb_o8mZjJOG7yvN0aGcyXj2SRp90s8sLFqq23r0ingNwke8JHpJyuFkN0DOjhYW877oRCZ-gm4EdjCmdH8fgLXnZkUyDXmykuH28B9V5s0QY_phQO7LcUt4q0N9QfCy0/s1600/8-man_Faroese_Row_Boat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ZWHYxyCZwhOzb_o8mZjJOG7yvN0aGcyXj2SRp90s8sLFqq23r0ingNwke8JHpJyuFkN0DOjhYW877oRCZ-gm4EdjCmdH8fgLXnZkUyDXmykuH28B9V5s0QY_phQO7LcUt4q0N9QfCy0/s1600/8-man_Faroese_Row_Boat.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un vaixell de les Illes Faroe</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><strong>L'entrada</strong> </span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Una entrada, o atac, decisiva i rapida és un dels elements més
importants de la tècnica del rem però també és un dels aspectes
més difícils aconseguir. Aquesta dificultat es deu a la
relativament inestable posició del vogador en el moment de
l'entrada—amb el cos doblegat des de la cintura i amb els braços
estesos cap a la popa. És molt més fàcil aconseguir una entrada
rapida mentre es rema amb el cos més vertical en el moment de
l'entrada—una mitja palada. Durant la recuperació, amb els braços
estesos, el cos del vogador es balanceja cap a la popa i quan les
mans arriben per sobre als turmells—més lluny és ineficaç, i
innecessàriament esgota la part inferior de l'esquena—la pala
entra l'aigua ràpidament i netament. Això es fa simplement elevant
els braços i les mans, amb els braços pivotant des de les
espatlles.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">L'entrada és de vital importància, ja que és la transició entre
les fases de recuperació i passada—els cossos de la tripulació
fan un canvi de direcció de popa a proa. Aquest canvi de direcció
ha de coincidir de forma instantània amb l'entrada o en cas contrari
la barca s'aturà. Amb una entrada ràpida la pala entra l'aigua
sense esquitxades cap a la proa i sense frenar la barca. Una entrada
ràpida no implica una entrada forta i dura que dóna la barca un
sotrac. És més eficaç si s'aconsegueix amb una acceleració
gradual de la pala durant tota la passada. Les entrades rapides s'han
de mantenir en tots moments, fins i tot quan ramen lleugerament.
Només la pala del rem s'ha de submergir. Remar massa profund amb la
pala és ineficaç, pot causar que el rem s'enganxi i que s'alin tiri
la barca. D'altra banda si només una part de la pala és submergit,
el rem pot fer un misto. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><strong>La passada</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Amb la immersió de la pala s'inicia la fase de la passada. Amb el
rem de banc fix els muscles de l'esquena són els que proporcionen la
major part de la potència duran la passada. Això implica la
necessitat que els muscles de l'esquena i els abdominals siguin
forts—el més fort millor. El cos es balanceja a través d'un arc
que va des de la inclinació endavant (cap a la popa), a la posició
vertical i acabant amb una inclinació enrere, és a dir cap a la
proa. Amb el banc fix la inclinació enrere és bastant exagerat en
comparació amb el banc mòbil, encara més raó per tenir els
muscles de l'esquena i abdominals forts. Des de l'entrada el braç
més lluny de l'escalemera es manté recte i l'altre una mica
doblegat, i es queden així fins que el cos arriba a la posició
vertical. És només llavors que els braços realment comencen entrar
en joc i contribueixen potencià a la passada. Els braços i
l'esquena acaben el mateix temps, les mans i el mànec del rem donant
els abdominals un bon cop. Doblegar els braços a l'entrada o abans
que el cos arribi a la posició vertical resulta amb una feble i
ineficaç passada. Tot i que estem parlant del rem de banc fix las
cames contribueixen a la passada. En el moment de l'entrada les cames
estan doblegades una mica però amb el cos balancejant cap a la proa
las cames es posen rectes i afegeixin la seva força a la passada.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">La força generada i que s'aplica durant la passada pot variar d'una
tripulació a un altre. És possible emprar una entrada molt forta, o
exercir més poder a la part mitjana de la passada, o emfatitzar el
poder just abans de l'extracció. Això és una qüestió de
variacions en la tècnica. Però, jo no recomanaria una tècnica que
fa èmfasi amb una entrada forta per dues raons. Primer, una entrada
forta carrega el baix de l'esquena, sobretot tenien en compte que les
embarcacions de banc fix poden pesar molt. Alguns llaguts arriben a
pesar fins a 300 kilograms. En segon lloc, una entrada forta resulta
en un moviment vertical que impedeix el moviment cap endavant de
l'embarcació. És més eficaç que després d'una entrada rapida i
suava s'accelera la pala dins l'aigua, i que és emfatitzi el mitjà
o final de la palada. Qualsevol que sigui la tècnica escollida la
pala s'accelerà fins al moment d'extracció, or sortida.
L'acceleració de la pala just abans de la sortida es duu a terme
mitjançant l'ús dels braços tirant el mànec cap als abdominals.
És molt important mantenir l'acceleració de la pala per facilitar
l'extracció. És molt important aquest punt.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><strong>La sortida</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Quan les mans arriben al cos del vogador es deixen caure ràpidament
a la falda i s'empanen fora del cos. Igual com l'entrada, la sortida
és ha de fer el més netament possible. El secret per on sortida
neta, que la pala no s'enganxi, és l'acceleració dins l'aigua.
Mentre que la pala és accelera hi haurà una massa d'aigua
turbulenta darrere la pala que facilitar la seva extracció.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Un aspecte de la palada que varia entre les diverses barques que
utilitzen el banc fix és la qüestió de repaleig del rem. En alguns
vaixells els rems es repalegen però en altres no. En general
repalejar el rem dependre de la mena d'escalemera. La majoria de les
embarcacions de banc fix no tenen escalemeres que es poden tancar. No
hi ha dubte, ser capaç de repalejar la pala és avantatjós quan es
rema contra el vent però també en condicions turbulentes.
Normalment l'escalem és una simple estaca i el rem si agafa amb un
estrop o volandera. També l'escalem pot constar d'una osca a la
borda de la barca. En qualsevol cas, l'acció de repalejar coincideix
amb la caiguda de les mans en el moment d'extracció de la pala, i es
porta a terme girant el canell més a prop de l'escalem.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><strong>La recuperació</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Una vegada que la pala està fora de l'aigua les mans s'aparten
ràpidament del cos. A mesura que els braços s'estenen i les mans
estan per sobre els genolls, el cos es balanceja cap endavant
pivotant des dels malucs. Movent les mans ràpidament i que s'aparten
del cos facilita la balancejada i ajuda aconseguidor el que en angles
es diu el «swing». Un bon <i>swing</i> és una sensació que només
s'aconseguirà quan els cossos de tot l'equip es mouen en uníson cap
a la popa. Quan es fa correctament la barca sembla més lleugera, com
si té una vida pròpia. El <i>swing</i> és un element difícil
aconseguir i només ve amb pràctica i l'atenció a la tècnica. No
obstant això, aquesta balancejada ha de ser controlada, el vogador
no es pot tirar cap a la popa, ha de ser un moviment fet amb control
i deliberació. Fins i tot quan es remi en un ritme elevat. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">La recuperació és el moment quan que el vogador pot descansar i
prendre forces pel següent esforç. Durant aquest temps, els muscles
s'han de relaxar-se, l'agafada del mànec ha de ser ferm però no
tens, el cap aguantat sense tensió amb els muscles del coll. La
rapidesa de la recuperació marca la freqüència de les palades, el
ritme. La velocitat del cos cap a la popa determina el ritme, mes que
l'esforç de la pala dins l'aigua. Qualsevol que sigui el ritme les
mans s'han d'apartar del cos el més ràpid possible. En deixar el
vaixell ratxa de la seva pròpia inèrcia, sobretot si hi ha un vent
de popa, els temps de la recuperació es pot allargar (és a dir,
baixar el nombre de palades), una situació que permet el vogador
aplicar encara més força durant la passada.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><strong>Sincronització</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Pot ser redundant reafirmar de nou, però la sincronització, o
l'uníson, de la tripulació és d'importància critica. Tota la
tripulació ha de fer cada moviment a l'uníson: les entrades
sincronitzades, les sortides en concert, balanceja junts, fer la
recuperació en uníson, i l'aplicació dels esforços a l'aigua de
cada vogador han de coincidir. Per descompte, en barques en què els
seients són de costat a costat, com en els llaguts, traineras i
whale boats, els dos vogadors que fan de marques tenen de remar en
sincronització. En aquestes barques la resta de la tripulació ha de
seguir les marques i ningú altre. En el cas de barques on els
seients són un darrere l'altre, com els canots de gel i els batels,
tothom segueix el que fa de marca.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><strong>Finalment...</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">No fa cap mal subratllar una vegada més que les entrades i sortides
ben fetes són d'importància crucial. Aquest aspecte de la tècnica
de vegades es denomina «bladework» en anglès, o «treball de
pala». Per alguns entrenadors del banc mòbil és el seu objectiu
principal quan es tracta de la tècnica. El seu raonament és que si
el <i>bladework</i> és ben fet, la resta caurà en el seu lloc: és
a dir, els moviments del cos del vogador s'adaptaran el bon treball
de la pala. Si bé aquest enfocament fa que tingui algun sentit, una
bona tècnica és més probable, al meu entendre, i que s'aconseguirà
més aviat i amb menys problemes, si l'entrenador treballa tant amb
els cossos com amb el <i>bladework</i> simultàniament. En una
avaluació la tècnica d'una tripulació les entrades solen ser
l'element que primer crida l'atenció de l'observador ben informat,
sobretot quan la barca es veu de llarga distància. En el moment quan
una tripulació, que té bona tècnica, arriba a la posició de
l'entrada, les pales desapareixen en un cop d'ull. Una tripulació
que ha dominat les entrades rapides i les sortides netes probablement
té un alt nivell de tècnica, qualsevol sigui el seu nivell de
condició física. Una tripulació que porta entrades lentes on les
pales es detenen en l'aire abans d'entrada a l'aigua està
desaccelerant el lliscament de l'embarcació, i per tant serà més
lenta pel seu esforç. Una tripulació que té bona tècnica pot
entrenar i competir físicament en un nivell més alt, perquè la
bona tècnica facilita l'aplicació d'esforç. Remar en una barca on
la capacitat tècnica és alta és un plaer. Remar en una barca on la
tècnica és descuidant serà tediós i és desmotivant per tots
involucrats. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"></span> </div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">
</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">
</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQOQSAxeYkaRYdh9OQxvv_sCIpb-gmoHe59bw351cD91uSpvQ6BUsuUS1vn4XJXeOy1mdSN4aKKvfzKoNEOroutQGET8tuYeGblaOvUXFKZxelaAZRmsPlTpbcPRRgEP1CWIRb_7ejpVY/s1600/Homer-000015_jpg_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQOQSAxeYkaRYdh9OQxvv_sCIpb-gmoHe59bw351cD91uSpvQ6BUsuUS1vn4XJXeOy1mdSN4aKKvfzKoNEOroutQGET8tuYeGblaOvUXFKZxelaAZRmsPlTpbcPRRgEP1CWIRb_7ejpVY/s1600/Homer-000015_jpg_3.jpg" height="250" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Fog Warning (L'advertència de boira), Winslow Homer (1836-1910)<br />
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">
<br />
</span></div>
Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-17489890936566883662014-12-03T22:14:00.000+01:002014-12-03T22:14:19.628+01:00Jean Béliveau (1931-2014)<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="ca-ES">Els
titulars </span><span lang="ca-ES">principal</span><span lang="ca-ES">s</span><span lang="ca-ES">
d'aquest matí a tots els llocs de notícies canadencs que normalment
</span><span lang="ca-ES">llegeixo</span><span lang="ca-ES"> </span><span lang="ca-ES">eren</span><span lang="ca-ES">
sobre la mort de Jean Béliveau. Per als canadencs de certa edat, </span><span lang="ca-ES">com
jo</span><span lang="ca-ES"> que va</span><span lang="ca-ES">m</span><span lang="ca-ES">
créixer durant la dècada de 1960, la mort del Béliveau és una
notícia molt trista. Béliveau era un jugador d'hoquei, </span><span lang="ca-ES">un
dels millors,</span><span lang="ca-ES"> que durant dues dècades </span><span lang="ca-ES">va
</span><span lang="ca-ES">juga</span><span lang="ca-ES">r</span><span lang="ca-ES">
amb els Canad</span><span lang="ca-ES">iens</span><span lang="ca-ES">
de Mont-real, la major part d'aquest temps </span><span lang="ca-ES">com</span><span lang="ca-ES">
capità de l'equip. No només era un gran jugador, sinó també una
gran persona. Moltes de les notícies d'aquest matí el diuen que era un
«</span><span lang="ca-ES">gentleman»</span><span lang="ca-ES"> amb
totes les implicacions que té la paraula en anglès. No estic prou
versat en la història del FC Barcelona per poder dir si aquest equip
mai va tenir un jugador que va provocar tanta admiració com ho fet el Béliveau. </span><span lang="ca-ES">Però imagineu
l'estima que els brasilers tenen per Pelé.</span></div>
<span lang="ca-ES"><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWNhPteruARe-LxXYm-fBX6Mz3cH9FkyGK92CL3xgyTqm2xtKKvD6ongoQKSh5Ua_OQj97w-XsOqLtZWcON7tD9p4SJERyzznjFuKrMXvGjmS4s06r2fVEtwy2W5J3ADrKil7P7ouKy_U/s1600/Jean+Beliveau.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWNhPteruARe-LxXYm-fBX6Mz3cH9FkyGK92CL3xgyTqm2xtKKvD6ongoQKSh5Ua_OQj97w-XsOqLtZWcON7tD9p4SJERyzznjFuKrMXvGjmS4s06r2fVEtwy2W5J3ADrKil7P7ouKy_U/s1600/Jean+Beliveau.jpg" height="320" width="224" /></a></div>
</span><div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="ca-ES">Créixe</span><span lang="ca-ES">n</span><span lang="ca-ES">
a Mont-real, </span><span lang="ca-ES">o al Quebec, </span><span lang="ca-ES">durant
la dècada de 1960 la majoria dels nois com jo segui</span><span lang="ca-ES">en</span><span lang="ca-ES">
el</span><span lang="ca-ES">s</span><span lang="ca-ES"> Canadiens
cada any. Els </span><span lang="ca-ES">Canadiens</span><span lang="ca-ES">
són l'equip del </span><span lang="ca-ES">Quebec i la resta
</span><span lang="ca-ES">Canadà-francès de la mateixa manera que
el Barça és l'equip de Catalunya. </span><span lang="ca-ES">El g</span><span lang="ca-ES">ran
rival del</span><span lang="ca-ES">s</span><span lang="ca-ES">
Canadien</span><span lang="ca-ES">s</span><span lang="ca-ES">, que
represent</span><span lang="ca-ES">en el</span><span lang="ca-ES">
Canadà-</span><span lang="ca-ES">anglès</span><span lang="ca-ES">,
els Maple Leafs </span><span lang="ca-ES">de Toronto</span><span lang="ca-ES">
es pot dir que </span><span lang="ca-ES">fan </span><span lang="ca-ES">el
paper del Reial Madrid al Barça. Es parla molt bé de la capacitat
del Béliveau com a jugador, la seva humilitat com a persona i la
seva </span><span lang="ca-ES">manera de fer</span><span lang="ca-ES">
que fins i tot en </span><span lang="ca-ES">el </span><span lang="ca-ES">Canadà-</span><span lang="ca-ES">anglès</span><span lang="ca-ES">
va ser molt admirat. Això va ser especialment cert després que ell
es va retirar de jugar hoquei en 1971.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="ca-ES"></span> </div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="ca-ES"></span>A la fi
dels 1960s la meva família vivia en una nova urbanització en West Island
Mont-real i a l'hivern jo solia jugar a hoquei a la bassa del granger
proverbial uns pocs centenars de metres d'on viviem. Després de
l'escola a l'hivern el meus amics i jo jugàvem hoquei fins que
s'enfoscàs i tornàvem a casa per una mica de xocolata calenta. A la
tele ens tornaríem a veure els Canadiens i el Béliveau lluitar
contra els altres equips canadencs i nord-americans en la lliga
professional. Béliveau va jugar un gran paper d'aquest dret de pas
per a molts nois al Quebec.</div>
<div lang="ca-ES" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div lang="ca-ES" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
No crec
que el Béliveau mai públicament es va involucrar en el debat
separatista del Quebec, però mai va sembla anar en detriment de
la seva alçada com un gran quebequès. Jo francament no sé quins
eren els seus punts de vista sobre això. Mai va ser capaç de
representar Canadà en hoquei en tornejos internacionals—al llarg
dels anys 1950 i 1960 la competició internacional era ferotgement
"amateur" i ell era un professional—però en diverses ocasions Béliveau havia dit
que li hauria agradat haver jugat per el Canadà. Però, va ser
capità honorari del equip Olímpic canadenca de 2010. Fa uns quants
anys també va rebutjar una sol·licitud per actuar com a Governador
General de Canadà. </div>
<div lang="ca-ES" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div lang="ca-ES" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div lang="ca-ES" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">This morning's main
headlines on all of the Canadian news sites that I normally read were
about the death of Jean Béliveau. For those Canadians of a certain
age, who grew up during the 1960s the passing away of Béliveau is
very sad news. Béliveau was a hockey player who for almost two
decades played with the Montreal Canadiens, most of that time he was
the team captain. He was not only a great player but also a great
person. Many of this morning's news stories call him a gentleman with
all the implications that the word has in English. I am not
sufficiently versed in the history of FC Barcelona to be able to say
if that team ever had a player that elicited so much admiration as
did Béliveau.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"></span> </div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Growing up in
Montreal during the 1960s I like most boys followed the Montreal
Canadiens every year. The Canadiens are French-Canada's team much the
same way that Barca is Catalonia's team. The Canadien's great rival,
which represented English-Canada, the Toronto Maple Leafs could be
said to play the role of Real Madrid to Barca. It speaks highly of Béliveau's ability as a player, his humility as person and his plain
matter of fact style that even in English Canada he was much admired.
This was especially true after he retired from playing hockey in 1971
at age 39.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"></span> </div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">In the late 1960s my
family lived in a new subdivision on West Island Montreal and in the
winter I used to play hockey on the proverbial farmer's pond a few
hundred meters from where lived. After school in the winter my
friends and I would play hockey until it got too dark and go home to
some hot chocolate. In the evenings we would watch the Canadiens and
Béliveau battle the other Canadian and American teams in the
league. Béliveau played a huge part of that right of passage for
many boys in Quebec.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
</div>
Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-26363010310790961182014-10-22T12:52:00.000+02:002014-10-22T12:52:17.712+02:00The Drassanes or the Royal Shipyards of Barcelona<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWNjSPWpxe4qsGXRqdEVGquMBoQD0J4utONzgRevgEu9WXJTdmkQHSLDxpql4NxhAN7Hofrhd0RNFMQE243aExcN_Prp_3b-D92rVP55_2ivL1s23EL0qdxjPPjt6_RM_ZpPOLOUzZkBs/s1600/Barcelona_1563.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWNjSPWpxe4qsGXRqdEVGquMBoQD0J4utONzgRevgEu9WXJTdmkQHSLDxpql4NxhAN7Hofrhd0RNFMQE243aExcN_Prp_3b-D92rVP55_2ivL1s23EL0qdxjPPjt6_RM_ZpPOLOUzZkBs/s1600/Barcelona_1563.jpg" height="165" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Anton van der Wyngaerde's rendering of Barcelona in 1563 viewed from<br />
Montjuic. The Drassanes is visible in the centre of this image just to the left of<br />
the tower in the foreground</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
Writing and studying history is a
matter of sifting through often incomplete data and interpreting it
to arrive at a conclusion. Sometimes new evidence, dug out from
either archives or from archeological excavations, comes to light and
what was once dogma must be rethought and reinterpreted. Recently a
similar process has happened with Barcelona's Drassanes Reials, or
the Royal Shipyards. The building, located at the bottom of Las
Ramblas near the Columbus monument and the harbour, is home to the
Maritime Museum. For decades history books and tourist guides have
touted the Drassanes as one of Europe's foremost examples of
industrial Gothic architecture but recent archeological and archival
investigations have forced a reevaluation of the building and its
site. Instead of being a Gothic structure from the 13<sup>th</sup>
century most of the existing building is now considered to have been
built a century and a half later “in the Gothic style.” It may
be disappointing that the city has “lost” a Gothic monument but
we now know a lot more about the building, the site, and about
Barcelona's history. In addition, the same archeological excavations have shed
more light on the city's history as a Roman colony. The excavations,
begun in 2010 and lasting to 2012, were followed by a programme of
building renovation including architectural and engineering
restorative work.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
The Drassanes (drassana is the Catalan
for shipyard) was a place to build, repair and store ships of the
Crown of Aragon's navy. Archival evidence suggests there was a
shipyard—perhaps no more than an open area on the beach—on the
present site prior to the 13<sup>th</sup> century but it was not
until late in the reign of Pere el Gran (Peter the Great) between
1282 and 1285 that the medieval structure was built. That building
consisted of a series of long covered bays under which ships could be
assembled or repaired. The shipyard was built just to the west and
outside the city walls that roughly followed the line of the
present-day Las Ramblas. The shipyard buildings were built on the
beach so that ships could de directly launched or recovered. The
ships of the King's fleet had to be stored ashore during the winters
because Barcelona lacked a harbour with all-round protection. As the
Catalan-Argonese fleet grew the shipyard was expanded during the 14<sup>th</sup>
and early 15<sup>th</sup> centuries. During this time the city walls
were also expanded so as to encompass the Drassanes.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
Most of the existing structure, that
which we see today, dates from the late 16<sup>th</sup> and early
17<sup>th</sup> centuries. Although Barcelona lacked a proper harbour
a spit of land, where the Barceloneta neighbourhood is today located, provided ships
with a measure of protection from north winds. Unfortunately, this
also led to erosion of the beach in front of the Drassanes and as a
result the Medieval structure was demolished and a new one built
partly on the same location but further inland. The recent
archeological excavations have revealed the foundations of the piers
of the older structure. The new Drassanes was also built in the
Gothic style; this is what had confused historians, a building in the
Gothic style but built at a later date. Presumably the original
structure was found to be functional and when the “new” Drassanes
was built the same architectural style was used. This new evidence
has explained some discrepancies that arose from the study of old
documents. For example, a well-known 1563 image of Barcelona by Anton
van der Wyngaerde's had caused doubts about the accuracy of the
Drassanes as depicted. But research and excavations have shown that
Wyngaerde's image actually depicts the older building and not the
present-day structure.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The building of a larger Drassanes also implied advances in the
art of ship building that occurred between the 13<sup>th</sup> and
15<sup>th</sup> centuries. By the 15<sup>th</sup> century ships were
much bigger. Among the ships built in the Drassanes was the <i>Real</i>
which served as Don Juan of Austria's flagship at the pivotal battle
of Lepanto in 1571 between Islam and Christianity. At the time the
<i>Real</i> was largest galley in the world. In the 1970s the
Maritime Museum built a full-size replica of the ship and it occupies
one of the Drassanes' central naves, and is the museum's showcase
exhibit. The size of the <i>Real</i> replica made it impractical to
remove during the archeological and restoration work. During the
recent excavations the remainder of the museum's permanent exhibit
were removed to temporary storage.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
The archeological excavations under the
Drassanes have also revealed something about the Barcelona of two
millennium ago, revealing the presence of a large Roman necropolis.
The graves of more than one hundred individuals dating from the 1<sup>st</sup>
and 6<sup>th</sup> centuries provide another layer of evidence to
Barcelona's history. While the discovery of the graves does not add
to the building's history, it does tell us something about the
Barcelona waterfront at the time of the Roman empire. Amongst the
excavations were found the remains of a mausoleum which will be
visible to the public through a glass floor.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
One important conclusion taken from the
finding of the graves is that the land that the Drassanes sits on was
obviously stable, dry and likely some distance from the shore during
the Roman era. The dead would not have been buried on an unstable
beach. Another conclusion that can be made is that there was likely a
road parallel to the shoreline given that Roman cemeteries often
lined the roads leading to the gates of the city walls. So even
during the time of the Romans the site of the future Drassanes was
very likely near one of the gates into Barcino, as the city as known
under the Romans. An example of this custom, of graves lining a
roadway, are the Roman graves visible in the Plaça de la villa de
Madrid in the Barri Gotic. We know that from the time of the medieval
city that there was a gate through the city walls adjacent to the
shipyard.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
Over the centuries the Drassanes has
served as a military barracks, an arsenal, as a foundry for the
fabrication of munitions, and as part of the perimeter wall of
the city's defences. The building was transferred to the Generalitat
(the Catalan government) in 1936 with the intent of establishing a marine museum but the Civil
War interfered with these plans. During the Civil War the Drassanes served
as an arsenal for the Republican army and it was not until 1941 that
the Maritime Museum finally opened its doors. As part of the recent
renovations the museum's facilities have been upgraded and added to.
A new insulated roofing system and a new heating and ventilation
systems will aid in the preservation of the museum's collection. The
upgrading includes a new library and some classroom spaces. While
most of the Drassanes was reopened to the public in early 2013, and
temporary exhibitions were held during the renovations, the Museum’s
permanent exhibits will be back on display late in 2014.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<em><span style="font-size: x-small;">This article originally appeared in the February 2014 issue of Barcelona Metropolitan magazine.</span></em></div>
Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-50203907255543786102014-06-17T10:54:00.000+02:002014-06-17T10:54:19.739+02:00The Lion and Goddess of Knidos<div style="text-align: justify;">
There was something intriguing about the ancient city of Knidos although no one ever lost track of it like, say, Angkor or Machu Picchu. For centuries the ruins of Knidos lay exposed like the bleached bones of some dead beast, visible to anyone who ventured to the tip of the Datça peninsula on Turkey's south-east coast. Nor was there any great mystery over the origins of Knidos, it was founded by settlers from one of the city-states on the Greek mainland. Which particular city-state is in question and the actual date of its founding is unknown but the same can be said of other Greek colonies throughout the Mediterranean. The story of Knidos is incomplete despite brief and intriguing references to it by Herodutus, Strabo, and Thucydides amongst others. The city's name even appears in the Bible. And so, we know little of a city that in its heyday must have been as lively and cosmopolitan as any in the classical world. Today Knidos is most often associated with two celebrated pieces of art, both statues. One of which still exists but in a much damaged state. The other is long lost but is considered a key piece in the history of Western art.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
It was mid-morning when Tomac, our chartered 45-foot sloop, slowly motored out of Datça harbour and once clear of the approaches we hoisted sails. Aboard for a two-week long cruise were two other couples, my wife and I and our six-month old daughter. Getting away from Datça and from land was a relief, the air was cooler and fresher. We had spent a day moored stern-to the wall along the waterfront of the old town, and under the constant gaze of strolling crowds it had been claustrophobic. The weather in the latter half of August had added to that feeling. During daytime it had been sweltering with temperatures well above 30 degrees but while the cool nights provided welcome relief it was still muggy. The daytime heat had been so intense that my wife and I had considered abandoning the cruise for the sake of the little one. Frequent swims in the sea and a small inflatable boat filled with water so our daughter could sit and bath in the cool water had made the difference. There was another gloomy note during our cruise because some days the sun cast an odd yellow light as it penetrated through a persistent smoke haze the result of several forest fires along the Turkish coast. But, out on the water, away from land and with the sea breeze it was more bearable, even pleasant.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
About seven kilometres south from Datça, at Cape Ince, the coast turns west and we altered course to run parallel with it. Tomac was now close hauled and sailing upwind, but with the sea relatively flat it was a comfortable passage. Viewed from the boat a couple of kilometres offshore, the land looked harsh, mostly hard rock and covered with sun-burnt shrubs and bushes in shades of brown and khaki. Here and there occasional olive trees that keep their colour even during the summer dry season added touches of green but still the land looked tired and worn. A ragged ridge, in places rising up to a 1000 metres, ran the length of the peninsula. From the boat it was an uninviting and sparsely populated wilderness but it had not always been so. Two millennia ago the Datça peninsula had supported extensive agriculture and a substantial population.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
It was mid-afternoon when out of the haze Cape Krio became gradually visible. The height of the ridge fell as it neared the tip of Datca peninsula but just off the end of the mainland appeared an island. The harbour of Knidos was in the bay formed by the end of the peninsula and the island. Motoring into the harbour we had to take care to avoid a pair of ancient partially submerged piers, or rather breakwaters, that provided the roadstead with some protection. We anchored amongst a dozen or so boats, most of them wooden gulets that cater to the charter trade. At the head of the bay forming the harbour there was dock with several other sailboats tied to it. The water in the harbour was an intense indigo and looking down into its depths brought to mind Homer's “wine-dark sea.” And, it enticed the crew with the promise of a cooling swim. For me a couple of laps around the sloop were enough and once back aboard, with a beer in hand, I contemplated our surroundings.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
To the north of the harbour the land sloped up to the ridge, still about 200 metres high at that point. Low lying vegetation covered the slopes but scattered all about were the ruins of Knidos—terraces, broken foundations and piles of building stone—testament to how important and prosperous the city had once been. At the foot of the slope facing the harbour were the remains of a relatively intact amphitheatre. To the south rose the island of Krio but which since antiquity had been joined to the mainland by an artificial isthmus that formed the head of the harbour. In fact, Knidus has two harbours. The smaller of which, known as the trireme harbour, was on the other side of the isthmus but ages ago it had silted up and could now only be used by shallow-draft vessels. The “island” was also steeply sloped and it too was covered with ruins. Near its western tip, and straddling the ridge, was the Cape Krio lighthouse. Even after two millennia Strabo's description of the city was still valid: “with two harbours, one of which can be closed, can receive triremes, and is a naval station for twenty ships. Off it lies an island which is approximately seven stadia in circuit, rises high, is theatre-like, is connected by moles with the mainland, and in a way makes Knidos a double city, for a large part of its people live on the island which shelters both harbours.”</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
It was late afternoon by the time we were settled in after our arrival and there was only time for a brief outing ashore. I rowed the dinghy to the dock with my wife and daughter aboard. With the little one in a frontpack the three of us strolled along what had been the ancient waterfront over to the lower parts of the theatre. It merited close inspection and formed the plan for the following day. It was remarkable that the structure had survived to the extent it had because once Knidos had been abandoned it was pillaged for its masonry and stonework. We returned to the boat and did our share of preparing for the evening meal.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Round midnight a three-quarter moon appeared and as it rose up the ruins of the city were bathed in a soft ghostly light. There was just a hint of wind, the boat barely tugging on the anchor rode. What must it have been like 2,500 years ago under moonlight when Knidos was home to thousands of people? One could imagine oil lamps faintly twinkling from hundreds of windows scattered up and down the slopes on either side of the two harbours that would have been filled with triremes and cargo ships. The murmur of the sailors' voices drifting across the still waters could almost be heard.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
It is easy to forget that during antiquity's classical period what is now known as Greece also included the shores of Asia Minor. Neither was it a cultural or economic backwater of the Greek world. The classical scholar Robin Lane Fox wrote that, “Ionia and the eastern Greeks in the eighth to sixth centuries [BC] would have made mainland Greece seem decidedly drab and unsophisticated.” Knidos was one of several city states on the Carian coast that made up the so-called Dorian federation. Ancient sources on the origins of Knidos are vague and contradictory but the city was probably founded around 900 BC by Dorians from mainland Greece. There is some archaeological evidence to suggest that the city was originally located near the town of Datça and was relocated to the tip of the peninsula sometime early in the 4th century BC. According to Herodotus the city was founded by the Lacedaemonians from the southern Peloponnese. The much later Hesychius of Alexandria, however, states that the first settlers were called Limodorians, or “Ravenous Dorians,” so perhaps they were escaping a famine on the Greek mainland.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Herodotus famously relates that around 550 BC the Knidians under threat of attack by the traitor Harpagos, who had sided with Cyrus and his Persians, started to dig a canal across the narrow isthmus that links the Datça peninsula to the mainland. At that time the city reigned over an area that extended over the 80-kilometre long Datça peninsula and part of the adjacent mainland. The intention was to turn the peninsula into an island and thus make it more defensible. But the men digging in the hard rock were constantly injured by the flying chunks of stone. When the oracle at Delphi was consulted the Knidians were told to stop digging and they gave up their city to the Persians without a fight. Several days before we had anchored near the narrow neck of the isthmus and walked part of the terrain that the canal would have traversed. It was obvious that it would have been a prodigious feat if the Knidians had succeeded in building the canal.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
During our two days at Knidos I walked amongst the ruins several times. I usually went alone but on one outing my wife, daughter and I went for a long walk up the slopes to the east of the harbour. We had been worried about the heat and its effects on the little one but that day the temperatures had moderated somewhat and there was a cooling breeze coming off the sea. We walked slowly through the ancient streets picking our way through trails that wandered all about crossing and recrossing the ancient street grid. We took turns carrying the baby. Stepping and climbing over walls that had delineated what was obviously a house seemed like we were somehow trespassing. How different it must have been when the city was at its height two millennia in the past. The buildings would have provided some shade and instead of the wind sighing through the bushes of rosemary and thyme there would have been the sounds of voices, children playing in the streets and the clip-clop of donkeys along the streets and alleys.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
It is reasonable to infer, from the extent and concentration of the ruins, that the city must have been home to tens of thousands of people. The city's economy was based mainly on its strategic location astride important trade routes between Greece, the northern parts of Ionia, the Middle East and Egypt. Knidos did, however, produce an important trade commodity and that was its wine. In antiquity Knidian wine was famous and exported throughout the eastern Mediterranean. The city was also an important religious centre and for a time after the 4th century BC at important centre for science especially medicine and astronomy. Why had it not survived into the modern era like its sister city of Halikarnassos, the present day Bodrum? Knidus and Halikarnassos were the two most important cities of the Dorian federation that also included the islands of Kos and Rhodes. Of the cities in the federation Knidos is the only one that was abandoned. I suspect that the same reason that led to its rise, its location, had something to do with its demise. It may have been an advantageous location during times of relative peace but later when the Mediterranean fell into chaos its exposed position may have been cause of its undoing.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We climbed higher up the slopes. Just below the ridge stood the acropolis, of which little now remains. A lit way below the acropolis are the ruins of a second and larger theatre which is now almost unrecognisable. However, even amongst the ruins of houses, shops and temples the outline of a street grid is still discernible. Wandering about the about the ruins one finds bits of carvings most of it architectural in nature, broken columns, chipped and scratched jambs, shattered lintels and broken pavements. The ruins were covered in fragrant thyme, oregano and rosemary, but it was like walking through a ghost town. If, however, there are ghosts they are more likely to be found beyond the eastern edges of the city amongst the ruins of an extensive necropolis. While returning to the dock we came across a group of archaeologists working below a retaining wall. We paused to watch them but they seemed too weary working under the hot sun to pay us much attention. A couple of them looked up as they scraped the earth with their trowels and brushes and then turned to their work.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Even after Turkey became a major tourist destination the ruins at Knidos remained relatively unknown especially when compared to other Greek cities in Ionia such as Ephesus or Miletus. Those tourists who go out of their ways to visit Knidos are on their own—there is no museum, no visitor centre, not even toilets. In the early 1950s the British explorer and writer Freya Stark visited—she also arrived by boat. At that time almost the only visitors were the goatherds wandering the slopes and fishermen seeking shelter before trying to round Cape Krio. Stark found peasants using the ruins as terraces on which to raise corn. Even today the difficulty of access, over 20 kilometres of rough unpaved road, is enough to keep the tourists thin on the ground—not a bad thing in itself. Still I find the relative obscurity of Knidos strange. Perhaps it was because in the ancient world the city seems to have been more concerned with commerce than war and so merited little attention from historians.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
From the Bible's accounts of St Paul's travels we know that he passed near the city on at least three occasions. In Acts 24 Paul says that, “we came with a straight course into Cos, and the day following onto Rhodes.” On such a trajectory Paul would have at least glimpsed Knidus from his vessel. He must have passed close to the city on two other occasions including on his last fateful journey to Rome. On that passage, sometime in late autumn of 60 AD, Paul was part of a group of prisoners being sent to Rome. Leaving from Sidon the ship coasted eastward along the Turkish coast and stopped at Myra. The late autumn was not the best time to sail against the contrary winds and it must have been a difficult passage. Paul tells us in Acts 27 what happened after leaving Myra: “and when we had sailed slowly many days, and scare were come over against Knidos, the wind not suffering us, we sailed under Crete, over against Salome.” It is not much of a claim to fame but that is the extent of Knidos's appearance in the Bible—a fussy editor would have crossed out the reference. At the time of St Paul's near misses the city was past its prime but it must have still been an impressive sight shining in the sunlight out on the tip of the windswept peninsula.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Today, if Knidos is known, by other than a few historians or classicists, it is for two statues. The less famous of these has survived to be pre-eminently displayed in the British Museum. Entering the Great Court through the main entrance from Great Russell Street and turning to the left one comes to a colossal statue of a reclining lion placed on a pedestal so that it sits above the throngs of visitors. During my visits to the museum few visitors have paid the lion much attention but it does have an interesting story to tell. Although much damaged, missing its tail, chipped and pitted, with empty eye sockets that were probably originally inset with coloured glass, it is still an imposing piece. It would have been even more so in its original placement. The Lion of Knidos is carved from a single piece of marble three meters long and weighs six tons. The stone came from the same quarry near Athens that supplied material for the Parthenon. At the time it must have been a prodigious feat to load such a massive stone aboard an ancient cargo ship and sail it across the Aegean Sea. The Royal Navy certainly had some difficulties when it recovered the lion and shipped it to London in the 19th century.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The Lion of Knidos was discovered 1859 by Richard Pullan an architect and member of Charles Newton's 1857-59 expedition to Asia Minor. Newton had been working across the Ceramic Gulf in the ruins of Halikarnassos now buried under the modern town of Budrum. After two seasons the difficulty of excavating in a working city led Newton to switch his efforts to Knidos where he undertook another season of excavations. While working at Halicarnassus Newton had recovered some lion statues. A Greek visitor on seeing the lions mentioned that there was an even larger lion statue just to the east of Knidos. Newton's expedition shifted to Knidos at the end 1858. That winter, however, was so long and harsh that it was not until the following May that Pullan was sent to look for the lion amongst the ruins of the necropolis. About a mile along the shore from the city is a promontory whose steep sides rise 60 metres above the sea and looks out over the approaches to Knidos harbour. On the top of the headland Pullan found the remains of a severely ruined monumental tomb. The Lion of Knidos lay on the rubble just to the east of the tomb's remains. The conjecture is that the lion had been originally placed on the top of a massive 18-metre high tomb. To my disappointment I never got out to the promontory.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The other Knidian statue of note holds an important place in the history of Western art in particular with respect to the female nude. And, it made Knidos famous throughout the classical world of Greece and Rome. Around 350 BC Praxiteles, the greatest sculptor of his day, and possibly the greatest of antiquity, was commissioned by the citizens of the island of Kos to carve an Aphrodite. When the representatives of Kos saw the statue they were taken aback by the goddess's nakedness especially by its uninhibited posture and they opted for another statue that was clothed. A delegation from Knidos was more adventurous or open minded and bought the nude statue for their city where it was supposedly displayed in a small circular temple, open all round so that the statue could be properly appreciated.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The Aphrodite of Knidos was revolutionary in its day as the first monumental female nude but it was also famous for its beauty. In the introduction to her book on the statue, art historian Christine Havelock wrote that, “It was an innovation of great significance and with major consequences. Not only did Praxiteles introduce the naked Aphrodite as a subject into classical Greek art; it is accepted that his work inspired later Greek versions of the goddess. These in turn were adopted by Rome, which disseminated them far and wide. In this way the female nude as a subject for the plastic arts entered the mainstream of the West.” It seems odd, given that we are so accustomed to its portrayal in Greek art, that the female nude had not been treated in such a manner prior to Praxiteles but every movement must have a beginning.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
From the numerous copies of the Aphrodite of Knidos, sometimes called the Knidia, and also from its depictions on coins we know how the original would have looked even if we cannot directly appreciate Praxiteles' artistry. By all of the accounts that have come down to us he was an artist of great skill. The Knidia's pose is somewhat reminiscent of the goddess in Botticelli's The Birth of Venus, with one arm held before the breasts and one hand held in front of the pubic area. Perhaps Botticelli drew his inspiration from a copy of the Knidia that he may have seen. Praxiteles depicted the goddess as if she had just stepped out of her bath. There is a tradition that the artist used his mistress, and famous courtesan, Phyrene as the model for the statue. This, however, may be a later embellishment to the story of the Knidia. What is certain is that travellers made a point of visiting Knidos to see the statue reinforcing the city's position as a religious centre. A cult associated with the goddess grew from that association. It was the statue's fame that caused it to be copied throughout the Greek and Roman classical period. The emperor Hadrian commissioned a copy of the statue and housed it in a reconstruction of the circular temple on the grounds of his villa in Tibur.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
During my last walk amongst the ruins of Knidus I climbed up the steep slope to the high ridge just before it drops off to the sea. There located a few feet below the ridge were the remains of the circular temple said to have housed the Knidia. All that was visible were the building's foundations and there was nothing to indicate the significance of the site to anyone who might have wandered by. The structure was obviously a temple, there is no other possible use for it, and it may have housed the Knidia. The ruins were discovered in 1969 by the appropriately named Iris Love an American archaeologist and wealthy socialite who had specifically set out to find the temple based on her interpretation of the ancient texts. Love's excavations were the first at Knidos since Newton's efforts in the 1850s. From Pliny's account she surmised that the building had to be circular. Despite some deprecation on the part of some archaeologists—which may be nothing less than professional jealousy—Love's find seems to match the descriptions in the ancient texts. I found the view from the temple to be spectacular, the goddess must have of approved. Despite the hazy conditions, I could look out across the Aegean Sea to the west and to the south-east towards Rhodes. The twin harbours were laid out below and I could see Tomac at anchor. The lighthouse stood bold out on the point of Cape Krio. For a while I watched one of the high-speed hydrofoils racing from Rhodes to Kos as it rounded the cape.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Although the temple housing the statue may have been found the statue itself has been long lost. It remained in Knidos at least until the early Christian era. Lucian a Roman writer of the 2nd century AD visited the city with two friends and saw the statue, although his description of the temple and its surroundings conflicts with Pliny's account. Lucian's comments are perhaps more famous for his description of the reactions to the statue by his two male companions of different sexual orientations. It is not implausible that five centuries after first arriving in Knidos the statue had been moved about and installed in various buildings. Certainly when the pagan gods fell to Christianity under the eastern Roman empire, or Byzantium, there was a house clearing. The 392 AD decree to close pagan temples throughout the empire led to the moving of the Knidia along with other statues of pagan gods with artistic merit to the Lauseion palace at Constantinople. Byzantine sources tell us that the Knidia along with other statues were destroyed in a fire that raged through the palace in 476 AD.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
What of the city itself? Little is known of the end of Knidos but its decline was probably gradual. The archaeological record is incomplete but there is no evidence of a major catastrophic fire or of war damage. Under the Romans especially during Diocletian's general shake up of the Empire's provincial governments in the fourth century it must have suffered the fate of other Ionian cities—centralization, standardization, bureaucracy and loss of privilege. There is some archaeological evidence of a major earthquake at some point. Most likely the city so exposed on its prominent location was subject to attacks following the rise of Muslim pirates after the 7th century. And, like so many other Mediterranean seaside locations, it was abandoned. Invasion and neglect had already destroyed many other ancient and noble cities. Later still, even its ruins suffered the indignity of being pillaged by the Ottomans who used the masonry to build a palace in Egypt.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
After two full days in Knidos we got under way one morning after breakfast. We hauled the anchor up from the inky depths, as ever the water as dark as wine. Tomac weaved slowly past the other boats still at anchor and out past the breakwaters. The weather had changed at last, the air was cooler and clearer, but it was a fine feeling to once again get away from the dusty and parched land. The wind out of the west was in our favour because once clear of the harbour approaches we hoisted sail steered for the head of the Gulf of Syme. Looking up at the slopes and their scattered ruins as we sailed out, Knidus retained some of its majesty and it was obvious that the gods had once smiled down on it. We sailed past under the promontory where the great lion had been found but from seaward there was nothing visible to indicate the presence of the necropolis. For some time I kept looking back toward Knidos until eventually the haze and mist blanketed it from view.</div>
Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-78097769081793214942013-05-06T22:34:00.000+02:002013-05-06T22:34:27.003+02:00A Modern Guide to Barcelona Modernism<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-31ddd8ea-78fa-a6a0-c536-e630ca36d9ce" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilvyxDMQRZ4Mkg7JEd3QQw78pWFHw_DnOzPrKq1VB0udW3robRv0z1E_X7NfJRuWis3nDXeMT6PGcexf2BF2qfUUcJuT_-JxglQU6ZYe3VFREgNOwGj2ss4wH0W88RMfsoSlnM-bX9hBc/s1600/casa+fuster+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilvyxDMQRZ4Mkg7JEd3QQw78pWFHw_DnOzPrKq1VB0udW3robRv0z1E_X7NfJRuWis3nDXeMT6PGcexf2BF2qfUUcJuT_-JxglQU6ZYe3VFREgNOwGj2ss4wH0W88RMfsoSlnM-bX9hBc/s400/casa+fuster+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casa Fuster</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">When the Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi i Cornet (1852-1926) was fatally injured by a Barcelona tram in the summer of 1926 there was another less obvious victim. As Gaudi lay dying Modernism--Barcelona's particular brand of Art Nouveau architecture--was also breathing its last. For a time, it seemed that his great and foreboding work, the church of the Sagrada Familia, would also succumb and fall into ruin. Of course construction on the church continues to this day--even unfinished it has become Modernism’s greatest monument and Barcelona's biggest tourist attraction. But with Gaudi's death Modernism had run its course. It had lasted 40 years and bequeathed to the Catalan capital a unique patrimony.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Most visitors to Barcelona are familiar with Gaudi but there were two other great Modernist architects. Certainly Gaudi deserves the attention but Lluis Domènech i Montaner (1850-1923) was perhaps most responsible for Modernism’s origins. In the 1870s Domènech i Montaner was absorbed in defining a Catalan architecture incorporating Greek, Gothic, Egyptian and Islamic elements while using modern technologies. There was another element to Modernism that most visitors to Barcelona are unaware of. It was a style that was rooted in the fevered soil of 19th century Catalan nationalism--Gaudi would at times only speak in Catalan refusing to speak Spanish. The first Modernist building is considered to be the Cafe Restaurant erected for the 1888 Universal Exposition and which still stands in Parc de la Ciutadella. Appropriately it is the work of Domènech i Montaner.</span></div>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The triumvirate of Modernist architects was rounded out by Josep Puig i Cadafalch (1867-1957), also an intense Catalan nationalist, and like Domènech i Montaner, an active politician. The nationalism of Gaudi, Domènech and Puig manifests itself in details that often appear in the ornamentation of their works. Like England, Catalonia's patron is St George, and both the saint and his dragon are often featured in Modernist ornamentation. The rest of Spain maintained a certain ambivalence toward Modernism, it was too Catalan and therefore fit to be ignored by the rest of country. That is why Modernism is almost exclusively restricted to Barcelona and the area around it.</span></div>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Modernism was a flash of whimsy with its bizarre combinations of curved masonry, dark and sweeping wood panels, colourful tile work and shingled roofs that look like the backs of giant dragons. It was also a style that required exquisite workmanship and skilled craftsmen in a way that makes it almost unreproducible today. Initially Modernism had been inspired by Gothic architecture, which also abounds in Barcelona, but it was also influenced by forms and shapes that appear in nature--tree trunks, butterfly wings, or mushrooms--rejecting straight lines and regular sections.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Modernist buildings are found throughout the Eixample area of Barcelona, the part of the city with the uniform grid of blocks. There are approximately 2000 buildings in the city with Modernist elements and many were demolished during the dictatorship. Fortunately the remaining buildings are now protected by law. One could wander about craning up trying to pick out Modernist buildings here and there. However, if you have a limited time in Barcelona it is more productive to concentrate on the area centred around Passeig de Gràcia and Avenue Diagonal. It also happens to be where Gaudi's Casa Mila (1905-11) is located. I would like to suggest the following tour which can be accomplished during a leisurely morning’s stroll.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Located just north of Avenue Diagonal on Passeig de Gràcia are two examples that illustrate contrasting interpretations of Modernism by different architects. At number 113 is Casa Bonaventura Ferrer (1906) now a hotel and the work of Pere Falqués i Urpi (1850-1916). A somewhat dark and foreboding building with its carved stonework and iron balcony railings of Baroque inspiration. A little further north where Passeig de Gràcia narrows is Casa Fuster (1908-10), also a hotel and the work of Domènech i Montaner. Casa Fuster’s restrained facades contrast with that of Casa Bonaventura. There is a hint of Egyptian architecture in the columns of Casa Fuster. The corner turret supported by a single central column keeps the sidewalk free and uncluttered. Step inside Casa Ferrer and have a look at the multi-vaulted ceiling over the bar and restaurant. Casa Fuster’s north facade, which overlooks a pedestrian walkway demonstrates, the care lavished even on a facade that would normally get little attention. The carved stone work around the numerous windows is striking.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDal8WsOuHL487w5WPd5aUYpVmceWPb3E5ziSx6Rn9tsZlB19uxR_06ZizrrjG2L1mVbZjoPEXRzl35FptN-eCrq1Nh2cFWuzFrpLh-rs5uiqXS79Qd1c9PxItoj5m3fsAt8HXILlYHW4/s1600/casa+fuster+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDal8WsOuHL487w5WPd5aUYpVmceWPb3E5ziSx6Rn9tsZlB19uxR_06ZizrrjG2L1mVbZjoPEXRzl35FptN-eCrq1Nh2cFWuzFrpLh-rs5uiqXS79Qd1c9PxItoj5m3fsAt8HXILlYHW4/s400/casa+fuster+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casa Fuster</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNDrHQpPEuD0gQ3E8s1-tB8IxGTfrP8i-mjvFe2PKfGNn_DB_h7hvG9iWLu-v_Ge9b846eS2LQ0MegqhT81YSeVp_My2jVbNxevmfmO5qGMie-fNubrd3OlObHfuaOL0zWWclpEf4EZWQ/s1600/modernism+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNDrHQpPEuD0gQ3E8s1-tB8IxGTfrP8i-mjvFe2PKfGNn_DB_h7hvG9iWLu-v_Ge9b846eS2LQ0MegqhT81YSeVp_My2jVbNxevmfmO5qGMie-fNubrd3OlObHfuaOL0zWWclpEf4EZWQ/s320/modernism+1.jpg" width="191" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casa Comalat, Carrer de Còrsega facade</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Returning to the corner of Passeig de Gràcia and Avenue Diagonal walk one block east to the corner of Carrers de Corsega and Pau Claris to Casa Comalat (1909-11). This apartment building has two very different facades while the interior and exterior decorations are unlike anything else in Barcelona. The facade facing Carrer de Còrsega with its use of terrazzo--concrete embedded with pieces of quartz and polished to a smooth finish--is stunning as is the intricate tile work on the vertical surfaces and soffits of the overhangs. The main facade on Avenue Diagonal is very different, dominated by massive Baroque-like stonework likely influenced by Gaudi but the building is in fact the work of little-known Salvador Valeri i Pupurull (1873-1954). The overall effect may not be to everyone's taste but Casa Comalat highlights the level of workmanship that often marks Modernism. Through the vestibule doors you can get a glimpse of the interior decoration.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0vnF0jeCYH12TR8I7fMiI6saBByNBmEpyNL2UbMMyCdxiy2nTahBo8WY43IYEUgyI2KcFNebMduufIc7s6bpKAL0VkM8t0wURgs0AAtDwfwfsBG-74OmtIvrJXzQO7hyaIrUlSX8Oir4/s1600/modernism+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0vnF0jeCYH12TR8I7fMiI6saBByNBmEpyNL2UbMMyCdxiy2nTahBo8WY43IYEUgyI2KcFNebMduufIc7s6bpKAL0VkM8t0wURgs0AAtDwfwfsBG-74OmtIvrJXzQO7hyaIrUlSX8Oir4/s320/modernism+2.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casa Asia interior</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Across Avenue Diagonal from Casa Comalat is the Palau de Baró de Quadaras (1904) but commonly known as Casa Asia. It is an example of Puig i Cadafalch's elegant vision full of elaborate ornamentation using brick, wood, tile and ironwork. Casa Asia houses a cultural association and is open to the public during business hours. Take the stairs up to the second floor to get a taste of what was originally a private residence. The interior decoration is somewhat dark. However, this building like Casa Comalat has two street facades as it is located at the narrow end of a wedge-shaped block. The result is lots of windows on the upper floors to let in natural light thus diminishing the effect of the dark interior finishes.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">It is a short walk from Casa Asia along Avenue Diagonal to Casa Terrades (1903-05), colloquially known as the House of Spires for its turreted towers topped with steep pointed roofs. This medieval looking apartment block is also the work of Puig i Cadafalch and was built for three sisters. The building divided into three distinct parts, one for each sister, is highly detailed in its ornamentation. Ceramic panels throughout the facades depict nationalist elements including one with St. George that is inscribed "Holy Patron of Catalonia, give us back our freedom."</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc6TR5MGlq0rO2nUXTgKZP_SGqXsVJ0bH5TI7Uh89dB-DJunTXaikKh3uS907sg-zXxRl3uVQpzTbvoEcapLV7FDvUxMQFcgwQOS-Qo4_5Gcg-aVMj_a3uJe8k9qB8XIjmfnLwhB9rw3E/s1600/modernism+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc6TR5MGlq0rO2nUXTgKZP_SGqXsVJ0bH5TI7Uh89dB-DJunTXaikKh3uS907sg-zXxRl3uVQpzTbvoEcapLV7FDvUxMQFcgwQOS-Qo4_5Gcg-aVMj_a3uJe8k9qB8XIjmfnLwhB9rw3E/s320/modernism+3.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casa Terrades</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">From Casa Terrades walk south along Carrer Roger de Llùria for two blocks to Carrer Mallorca. On the southwest corner of Carrers Llùria and Mallorca is the Palau Montaner (1893). It now serves as offices for the Spanish government but originally it was a private residence designed by Domènech i Montaner. It is an early example of Modernism and as such it has a restrained aspect to it, lacking the exuberance of later buildings. Perhaps it was a more welcoming and comfortable space for the wealthy bourgeois family that commissioned the building. The lanterns in the form of dragons on either side of the main entrance again touch on Catalan nationalist imagery.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">On the next block over on Carrer Mallorca is located Casa Thomas (1895-98) an outstanding example of Modernism but usually overlooked as one walks past because it is best viewed from across the street. It was originally a two-storey structure designed by Domènech i Montaner but in 1912 was enlarged into an apartment building by the architect’s son-in-law Francesc Guàrdia i Vial. The style is neo-Gothic with flourishes of floral elements. The lower floors now house a furniture company and during business hours you can have a look at the decorations of the entrance hall and the wrought-iron railing of the main staircase.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Continuing along to Carrer Mallorca number 302 we come to Casa Vallet i Xiró (1912-13) the work of Josep Barenys i Gambús (1875-1953). It is interesting to contrast this building with its neighbours on either side. Often the line between elegance and kitsch is very fine and this is evident here especially when we contrast Casa Vallet with the building at number 300. The latter building features bizarre columns between the fourth and fifth floors with huge vases on the sixth floor. The effect is something like a Piranesi draughting exercise, and not to everyone’s taste. Meanwhile Casa Vallet is more subdued to an altogether more attractive effect. The wrought iron railings on the upper balconies of Casa Villet are very fine work.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">From the corner of Carrers Mallorca and Bruc head toward the sea along Bruc one block to the corner of Carrers Bruc and Valencia. Dominating the intersection are the twin spires of the Conservatori Municipal de Müsica (1916-28). The work of Antoni de Falguera i Sivilla (1876-1947) and an example of late Modernism with obvious influences of Puig i Cadafalch. The effect is restrained, the ornamentation is plainer, that and the long construction period, perhaps reflects the constrained economic times of post-WWI. As the conservatory is a public building you can step inside during business hours and view the main staircase just inside. The simplified decorations contrasts with those of earlier buildings.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Perhaps now is good time for a pause and some refreshment. Next door to the music conservatory is the Mercat de la Concepció (1888) one of Barcelona’s municipal food markets. There are a number of cafes inside under the market’s ornate cast-iron structure, itself a fine example of early Modernism. From the market there are various options to continue your tour. The immediate area has many other buildings of interest. You could walk to nearby Casa Mila or take a short taxi ride to Sagrada Familia. Barcelona Modernism will not fail to fascinate.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana;"></span><br />
<br />
<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-7a8546c7-790d-faaf-5f07-15e5ba946ca0" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><strong>Suggestions and Recommendations</strong></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">If you can manage it plan your tour to coincide with the work week, that way you can gain entrance to some of the public buildings. Winter and early spring are good times to view buildings as the trees are bare of leaves.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">A good place to start a Modernism tour is at the Palau Robert at the intersection of Passeig de Gràcia and Avinguda Diagonal. The Palau Robert is not a Modernist building but it houses the Generalitat’s (the Catalan Government) main tourist office open seven days a week. At the desk ask for the publication <em>Modernism, Art Nouveau in Catalonia</em> (available in various languages) and for the multi-lingual map <em>Ruta de Modernisme</em> de Barcelona, both free. Then you can sit in the lovely shaded garden behind the Palau Robert to plan your excursion.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">One aspect of Modernism that a street tour will not reveal are the internal furnishings. A number of organizations have collections of Modernists furniture, sculpture, ceramics and paintings. These include MNAC (Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya), the private Museu de Modernisme Catala and Casa Mila has a furnished apartment suite open to viewing when you tour the building. The interior of Palau de la Musica Catalana is most spectacular and the building can be visited with the aid of an English speaking guide.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">If you visit the Sagarda Famila consider having a look at the Hospital de Sant Pau, a 15-minute walk away along the Avinguda Gaudi, a street that links the two sites by cutting diagonally across the street grid of the Eixample. The hospital is the work of Lluís Domènech i Montaner and it consists of several pavilions on a huge lot. If you are an aficionado of Modernism it is well worth a look.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">There are a number of companies offering guided tours on various architectural aspects of Barcelona including Modernism. In this time of economic crisis in Spain some of the guides happen to be underemployed architects who have in-depth knowledge of the subject.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Finally, some suggested reading. The late Robert Hughes’s <em>Barcelona</em> is an excellent and very readable history of the city up to the early 20th century. Hughes writes extensively on the work and influence of Gaudi, Domènech i Montaner and Puig i Cadafalch. The Hughes book is still in print. Irish writer Colm Tóibín’s <em>Homage to Barcelona</em> a good account of the city’s culture including its architectural heritage. Out of print but available at many UK libraries is Alistair Boyd’s <em>The Essence of Catalonia</em>, basically an architectural tour of the Catalonia with a good section on Modernism.</span></span></div>
</div>
Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-52425534301188037492012-12-22T22:03:00.000+01:002012-12-23T23:10:32.666+01:00Letter From Barcelona<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-2h1KeZFlZsIt7D9pf3z5NYd3AUUG-1a5HUgnnDabdiy_TAaSwY9NenxewZlRMv6lnwgqLzTrrGfNzxxGcJw33_xkiVRIKOS-CQvDlD37dRe0bK0GVmD-ctWt3jNlpco1pib1XzlqqhM/s1600/Diada-de-Catalunya-Miembos-de-_54349885269_51351706917_600_226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-2h1KeZFlZsIt7D9pf3z5NYd3AUUG-1a5HUgnnDabdiy_TAaSwY9NenxewZlRMv6lnwgqLzTrrGfNzxxGcJw33_xkiVRIKOS-CQvDlD37dRe0bK0GVmD-ctWt3jNlpco1pib1XzlqqhM/s400/Diada-de-Catalunya-Miembos-de-_54349885269_51351706917_600_226.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="right">
Photo; AFP, Lluis Gené</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The Canadian consulate in Barcelona is located in a building overlooking Plaça de Catalunya. The Maple Leaf flying from the side of the building is quite privileged because as one looks around the plaça the only other national flags visible are either the Spanish</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> rojigualda</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> or the Catalan </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">senyera</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. At about the time of Catalonia's national day on September 11, 2012, when a million and a half people filled the streets of Barcelona in support of Catalan independence, a banner appeared on an upper floor of the consulate’s building. The banner read in English, "Catalonia, next independent state in Europe." A few days later standing in the plaça looking up at the Canadian flag and the banner the sight elicited conflicting emotions in me.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Even though my family and I have been living in Catalonia since 2006, I see myself as a Canadian but I am also definitely a Catalan. My wife and our children were born in Canada but I was born in Catalonia and grew up in Montreal during the 1960s. I learned English and French but the language at home was Catalan. As Quebec struggled to find it's place in or out of Canada the dénouement resolved itself in a generally peaceful and democratic manner. The two Quebec referendums attest to the commitment to democracy by Canadians, including Quebecers. And now, when three hundred years of frustrated Catalan hopes may be coming to a head, I am not so sure that the Catalan question will be so quietly resolved.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">A few days after the massive pro-independence march Artur Mas, President of the Catalan government, presented the Spanish government with a demand for fiscal autonomy, basically the right of Catalonia to collect and spend its own taxes. The demand arose from revelations earlier this year that Catalonia has a net loss of nine percent of its GDP, or that annually about 9 billion euros collected in Catalonia are spent elsewhere in Spain. The figure would go a long way to reducing Catalonia’s deficit and it's a figure that Madrid does not even dispute. Few here argue that some redistribution to poorer areas of Spain is in order but Catalonia’s contribution is felt to be excessive. As expected Mariano Rajoy, the Spanish Prime Minister, rejected Mr Mas’ demand outright.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Spain is a complex country that belies the popular image of Spaniards as bullfighting and flamenco aficionados, soccer mad and who sip sangria. Each region of Spain has its own culture, cuisine, traditions and languages. There are five languages spoken in Spain--Castilian, Basque, Galician, Aranese and Catalan. Catalan itself has several dialects within Catalonia, Valencia and the Balearic islands. But Spain’s great fault is the mindset of the Madrid politicians and their supporters in the media who insist that the country speak one language Castilian. There are few in positions of power in Madrid who would dare speak of a country that revels in the diversity of its constituent regions, including the diversity of cultures and uniqueness of the various languages and dialects.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">When the last of Europe’s fascist dictators, General Francisco Franco, died in 1975 Catalans looked forward to ending the repression of their language and culture. The Spanish constitution of 1978 gave Catalonia significant powers to manage its own affairs especially in education and cultural matters. Catalan became the language of regional government for the first time in 40 years. Those powers are now under threat. The economic crisis now gripping Spain is being used by Mr. Rajoy’s centre-right Partido Popular to claw back those powers. Now is not the time to demand more concessions says Madrid to the Catalan government, it's time to pull together. The last thing most Catalans want to do is pull together with the rest of Spain, say the polls. The view in Catalonia is that the economic mess is Madrid's fault and that Catalans have been unfairly burdened supporting the Spanish economy. On top of that, the Partido Popular continues to attack Catalan culture and language. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The current movement for independence has been gathering steam since 2010 when the Spanish Supreme Court ruled that a new statute on Catalonia’s powers and responsibilities--worked out between Catalonia and Spain, approved by both parliaments, and supported by a majority of Catalans in a referendum--was not valid. Days after the Supreme Court’s ruling more than a million Catalans took to the streets of Barcelona in protest. Catalans felt that Madrid had negotiated in bad faith.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">With the Spanish government's rejection of a fiscal pact Mr. Mas called for regional elections on November 25th that will be in essence a referendum on the road to independance, something that the Spanish constitution does not allow. No one knows when and if there will be a referendum on independence. Even if there is a one the </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">independistas</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> may not win, as polls put support for independence at just over 51%. No one knows how the Spanish government will react.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">In 1960, when my parents decided to leave Spain, then under the dictatorship, and emigrated to Canada I was not quite four years old. My parents had concluded that they and their children had no future in Spain but we left one simmering social situation for another. Living in Montreal during the 1960s we were in the midst of the Quiet Revolution epitomised by the slogan “</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">maitre chez nous</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">.” The great debate between federalists and separatists was on. As Catalans, a minority group within Spain, our family could empathise with the aspirations of the French-Canadians but my parents also admired the democratic nature of Canada.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">My father worked in an office in downtown Montreal and one day, in October 1969, when he arrived late after work in our Pierrefonds home he was particularly disturbed. That day Montreal had been the scene of riots and violence centred around the Murray-Hill garage. It did not help that the city had been without police protection because of a labour dispute. In the days after, my parents began talking about moving and by December we were living in Toronto. I was too young to understand how my parents felt but their teenage years had been marked by the Spanish Civil War. Perhaps my parents overreacted by leaving Quebec but they both had grim memories.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">More than 70 years after it ended the spectre of the Civil War still hangs over Spain. Everyone has relatives, grandparents or in many cases parents, who lived through the war and its aftermath. It is a monster that no one wants to reawaken. But Catalans are tired of having their language and culture assailed. They are fed up with financially supporting the other regions of Spain while being treated as second-class citizens by a government that does not seem to value them. I cannot imagine Quebecers putting up with the linguistic and cultural assaults that Catalans have to endure.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">There is keen interest here in Catalonia with what happens in Quebec and I am often asked when Quebec will become independant. I say that I don't know. The Parti Quebecois victory in last September's elections was closely followed by the Catalan press. Catalans are aware of Quebec’s independence referendums and the Catalan media is following Scotland's preparations for its own vote. Many Catalans look at the situation of Quebec and Scotland with some wistfulness, they want to also be able to vote for independence but know how intransient the Spanish government will be on this issue. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ever since Mr. Mas called for elections the political debate in Catalonia and Spain has been degenerating. Two retired high-ranking army officers have said that force will have to be used if Catalonia decides to separate. A Spanish government minister has suggested that Mr. Mas should be arrested if he calls for a referendum. The Spanish minister of education has said that the Catalan education system is brainwashing students into </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">independistas</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> and they should instead be “Hispanized.” Two former Spanish prime ministers have both stated unequivocally that Catalonia will not be allowed separate. And the Spanish government continues to insist that a referendum in Catalonia would be illegal according to the Constitution but everyone knows that document was written up with the army breathing down everyone's neck.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The November 25th elections will not result in a Catalan declaration of independance but Mr. Mas' party, the CiU, will likely win a mandate to start some sort of process along with the help of several other parties and push for independence. The polls point to a majority of Catalans wanting major changes. There should be fireworks but I hope that they are only of the political kind. The </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">independistas</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> are being very careful to pursue their objectives peacefully and legally while firmly insisting that a democratic vote for independence cannot be stopped by the writing on some piece of paper.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">For my family and I living here in Catalonia these are interesting times. We identify with the Catalans because the small town where we live is very Catalan, because I was born here and because my wife and daughters all now speak Catalan. We also recognise that Spain while it sees itself as a democracy does have some failings most seriously, in my opinion, its failure to recognise regional aspirations. Here in Catalonia the popular will on the street is coming up against the centralist mindset of Spain's ruling elites, like it has for hundreds of years. Plaça de Catalunya has been the scene of many transformative events in Catalan history especially during the civil war. I hope that the Canadian flag that flies over the huge square inspires the same spirit of democracy here in Catalonia that it does back home.</span>Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-53262610746491448092012-10-12T20:10:00.000+02:002012-10-30T19:05:40.510+01:00Down and out in Cusco and Bangkok ...<div id="article_teaser">
<span style="font-size: large;">... and Rio and Harlem and Tegucigalpas. Montreal documentary filmmakers Luke Cote and Robby Hart roam the world looking for stories of individuals—ordinary and extraordinary—who are trying to change their worlds.</span></div>
<br />
Some of the street children of Cusco, Peru, are no more than five or six years old. They congregate in the town's main square begging, hawking postcards, or visit a shelter where they can get a meal or occupy themselves making art work. In their games the children seem as happy as any, but underneath the playful veneer smoulders a quiet despair, apparent if you get to know them even slightly. A six-year old girl sheds a tear when asked about her father. A seven-year old boy tells of his arrest and imprisonment by the police. A five-year old boy already has a history of glue sniffing. These images form the heart of the film <em>Growing Up in the South</em>, by Luc Cote and Robbie Hart, two Montrealers with an intensely personal approach to documentary filmmaking. To coincide with the film's broadcast premier on Radio Quebec, Cote and Hart organised an exhibition organised of the children's art work in a Montreal gallery, raising $20,000 for the Cusco shelter. Filmmaking for Cote and Hart is an act of intimacy and affection directed at the people they focus on, but that affection extends beyond their films into an ongoing involvement in the lives of their subjects. <br />
<br />
In the more than thirty films they have made since 1986, Cote and Hart have sought out hope in the lives of people on the margins and explored solutions to mundane but vital problems. In contrast to the more predictable documentary that focuses on the macropolitics, wars and disasters Cote and Hart's films are devoted to the micro--where individuals, ordinary and extraordinary, struggle to understand and change their worlds. Even more unusual, in an industry full of part-timers who often juggle other jobs to finance their films, Cote and Hart's company Adobe Productions occupies the partners full-time. Their films have been broadcast on the CBC, Radio Canada, TVOntario, Tele-Quebec, PBS in the United States and in more than thirty other countries. And Adobe has won more than thirty awards at such prestigious film festivals as the Columbus International Film and Video Festival, Academy of Canadian Cinema and Television and the Japan Prize International Education Contest.<br />
<br />
One of the risks in making the kinds of films that Cote and Hart produce is of being seen as simplistic and naive in the face of life's cruel realities. With their six-part <em>Rainmakers</em> series, broadcast in 1997, the accusation has some merit. The series examined the lives of a global melange of young people each working for a cause against formidable circumstances. But in one <em>Rainmakers</em> episode, for instance, the question is raised of how effectively can the drug-dealer-turned-poet alleviate violence in Harlem? Or, in another episode, can one low-caste Hindu woman really make a difference and improve the lot of all women in India? And do such films matter? <br />
<br />
Rena Mcleod, a young aboriginal woman in Manitoba who was featured in another <em>Rainmakers</em> episode, says that her experience with Adobe has helped both her and her cause. Mcleod, who works with troubled native youth in Winnipeg, says, "it's important when people tell positive stories." And it is particularly important that those stories appear on TV, says Mcleod, because young people are very much influenced by what they see there. While there is an optimism in Cote and Hart's films, it is rooted in the belief that individuals can make a difference. The name of their series speaks to that belief: a rainmaker in North American aboriginal lore, is a conjurer with extraordinary abilities to move and shape events. <br />
<br />
Adobe's documentaries originate in a spacious but Spartan former flat in a grey-stone turn-of-the-century walkup on Avenue du Parc in the Mile End, Montreal's most ethnically diverse neighbourhood. Cote and Hart relish the area's mix of Jewish delis, Vietnamese and Greek restaurants and French pastry cafes, and both live within walking distance of their office. One or the other of the partners greets the visitor to the office, there is no secretary or receptionist. Two of the former bedrooms are now editing suites. The walls of Adobe's "boardroom," formerly the dining area, are decorated with film award plaques. In the front office, shelves hold toys handmade by Peruvian street work story here ers, a soccer ball and an adobe mud block from Honduras, all items that have appeared in Adobe films. <br />
<br />
Cote, now 45, and Hart, 39, first became acquainted with each other in October 1985. Hart was completing a master's degree in international affairs at Columbia University in New York City and looking about for a career. Becoming a filmmaker appealed to him. Although he had never made a film, Hart considered himself, "very knowledgeable about film theoretically and as a journalist." Already Hart had in mind a film project to shoot in Honduras, which had developed from his experiences living in Central America in the early 1980s. Hart's roommate suggested that he speak to a friend, Cote, who then had his own production company in New York and had worked at the National Film Board in the 1970s. Hart telephoned and they spoke for two hours about filmmaking and Hart's project idea. Cote was impressed by Hart's enthusiasm and they arranged to meet at Cote's office the next day. "Of course he never came," laughs Cote, who imagined Hart as someone with big ideas but little initiative. (Hart had been too busy with his thesis.) Three months later, in early January 1986, Cote flew to Montreal with Hart's roommate. Hart happened to be at the airport and the roommate introduced them. "You're the one who's going to Honduras," Cote said to Hart. "I've got news for you, I want to go too." A few days later, back in New York, they made plans to go to Honduras that year to tackle their first joint film project. Funding for the trip came from a Canadian International Development Agency (CIDA) grant. <br />
<br />
The basis for Hart's idea was Central American squatter settlements and their political organisation. Seeing Windows, Cote and Hart's first film, focused on two farming co-operatives working to prevent the people of their communities from fleeing to the squatter settlements that had sprouted up around the Honduran capital, Tegucigalpa. Seeing Windows examined how the two co-operatives built houses using the adobe mud block, a whitewashed mixture of sun-dried mud, straw, sand and water, creating sturdy clean homes. (An apt symbol of attainable self-help, the name Adobe was perfect for their fledgling production company.) With improved housing and increased farming efficiency, co-operative families are less likely to migrate to the dismal squatter settlements. <br />
<br />
<em>Seeing Windows</em> is not a great film narratively or aesthetically, but it was a competent first effort and it delivers its message--that local affordable solutions can be implemented and can effect real change. The film was produced in conjunction with the 1987 United Nations International Year of the Homeless. Earnest and serious, as expected from novices, the film lacks the passionate edge of their more recent work. Cote and Hart's struggle of learning to work as a team is reflected in <em>Seeing Windows</em> pedestrian nature. "I wanted to make my first film and I wasn't thinking much beyond that," says Hart. Moreover, they shot the film without any commitments from broadcasters. It was very much a gamble. <br />
<br />
During that first trip the values and objectives of the two partners coalesced into a philosophy that 13 years later still guides their approach to filmmaking. For Hart, those values had developed while he worked as a part-time stringer for Radio Canada International, CBC's shortwave service, in Central America in the early 1980s. "I was doing stories about Contras, revolutionaries and Sandanistas, the American military," says Hart. "It was your typical stuff. No one talked about the lives of ordinary people. It's very difficult to tell a story that has a good news ending. I was determined to tell that type of story." For Cote, too, those stories were important. "We love people, to be with them, to experience what they experience and to be able to tell simple stories. That's part of who we are." <br />
<br />
"They were young when starting," says Jacques Bensimon head of TFO (TVOntario's French-language affiliate) and a documentary filmmaker himself. "But, what was striking was their almost missionary approach to their work and their respect for the subjects they were treating." Once back from Honduras, Cote and Hart had no idea if any television networks would be interested in their films. They failed to interest CBC in <em>Seeing Windows</em> although it eventually aired on Radio Quebec, TVOntario and several foreign broadcasters. <br />
<br />
Hart and Cote persevered, encouraged by this success, and in 1987 were commissioned by CIDA to produce <em>Du Coeur au Ventre</em>. The film, a mundane, chronological account of 18 Quebecois who volunteered to visit and work with local farmers in Nicaragua for a month, celebrated CIDA's twentieth anniversary. Then, in 1988 Adobe produced, for Tele Quebec's "Nord Sud" program, <em>Au Marche des Manchettes</em>, a short film contrasting the professional lives of three foreign journalists in Nicaragua with Hollywood's version of journalists portrayed in feature films like <em>Salvador</em> and <em>Under Fire</em>. <em>Au Marche des Manchettes</em> tries to dispel the myths surrounding war correspondents. For anyone with an interest in the news and how it is gathered, the film offers insights into the lives of journalists. It shows, for instance, how some "on-location" journalists from the American Networks covered the war from their hotels, getting their news from Washington. <br />
<em></em><br />
<em></em><br />
<em>In a Peruvian village in the Amazon basin Yage Prztyk, a Polish-Canadian farmer from Quebec's Eastern Townships, talks to a group of farmers, descendants of the Incas. Yage is helping the farmers' co-operative market its organically grown coffee in Canada. Several times a year Yage, "the flying farmer," travels to Peru and treks into the jungle to meet his business partners. To reach the Ashaninka Indians, a primitive and remote tribe who grow some of the co-operative's coffee, Yage and his local associate, Luis, set out on a two-day cross-country hike. The camera follows the two men hiking up steep hillsides and across a river on a primitive footbridge. This area of Peru is infested with the cocaine mafia and the Sendero Luminoso guerrillas. "The native communities still survive on simple hunting and farming methods and maintain their traditional ways," says narrator Roy Bonisteel. "Most are tucked away in the Amazon jungle and reached only by small aircraft. Others are virtually inaccessible." Yage and Luis approach the Ashaninka village and the Indians chant a greeting. Dressed in long coarse cloth tunics, painted faces and bows and arrows, the Ashaninka appear threatening. Later, sitting under a thatched gazebo, Yage and Luis talk business with the Ashaninka. </em><br />
<br />
<br />
Off camera, Cote and Hart, had some difficulty with the Ashaninka. "They were not expecting us," says Hart. "I had to negotiate with the tribal chief, for permission to film them." Sitting in a hut with two interpreters, Hart and the chief finally agreed on terms; a case of canned tuna would be sent to Ashaninka. "Transactions like that are normal in the more remote corners of the world," says Cote. "Filming the Touareg in Niger meant constantly having on hand a supply of tea and sugar." A quirky film, mostly because of the incongruous Yage--a chain-smoker promoting organic farming to Amazonian Indians--<em>The Flying Farmer</em> is intriguing, despite having to fit into the constraints of a 30-minute format. <em>The Flying Farmer'</em>s prime-time broadcast on CBC's <em>Man Alive</em> in 1989 was a big break for Cote and Hart. It was the largest audience of an Adobe film to date. The film fits neatly into Cote and Hart's philosophy and goals. Self-sufficiency based on local resources and the spirit of solidarity between Canada and the Third World engrossed them. Cote and Hart felt that the strong central character of Yage with his humanist message would appeal to the <em>Man Alive</em> audience. <br />
<br />
Also in 1989, Adobe produced <em>Villa El Salvador - A Desert Dream</em>, the story of a squatter settlement of 300,000 people on the outskirts of Lima, Peru. Astonishingly, <em>Villa El Salvador</em> has the highest literacy rate in Peru and one of the most effective municipal structures in South America. Adobe's film demonstrated the importance of grassroots organisation?people working in unison toward common goals. Two other 1989 films, <em>The Cusco Kids</em> and <em>Growing Up In the South</em>, examined the day-to-day lives of eight Peruvian street children. The 1993 film <em>When the Circus Came to Town</em> looked at two groups of street kids, in Rio de Janeiro and in Montreal, working with artists from Cirque du Soleil. "We knew when we started that this was an Adobe film," says Cote. "But that it was a new way to do it through the circus." The parallels between street kids in Rio and Montreal are striking and the idea of the circus as educational tool intriguing. With this film, Cote and Hart aimed to reach youth audiences in Canada and abroad, wanting to dispel any romantic illusions of street life. All of the kids in the film, both in Rio and Montreal, are on the street because of abusive or broken homes. Some openly yearn for a normal family life. <br />
<br />
To date, Cote and Hart?s most ambitious projects, in terms of scope and logistics, have been two series: the eight-part <em>Turning 16</em> which examined the values and concerns of 16-year-olds around the world and aired in 1994, and the six-part <em>Rainmakers</em>. Both series were largely well received by reviewers and the public, winning film festival awards. One <em>Turning 16</em> episode set in Thailand won the prestigious Japan Prize. Cote and Hart are currently working on seven new <em>Rainmakers</em> episodes to be broadcast in late 1999 on CBC and TFO. <br />
<br />
Regardless of their success, Cote and Hart claim not to follow any specific cinematic movement. "From the beginning we tried to have a different look from the NFB films with their talking heads," says Cote. But is there a unique look and feel to Adobe films? "I can't remember a moment or sequence in their films that made me sit back and say this is a totally new way of looking at things," says Mike Boone, television reviewer with <em>The Gazette</em> in Montreal. Boone is careful not to criticize too strongly. "I don't think they're innovators, but, at the same time I don't think they're making films like anything else I have ever seen. I don't think they have a lot of style." <br />
<br />
Henry Mietkiewicz, television critic at <em>The Toronto Star</em>, says that in the <em>Rainmakers</em> series and <em>When the Circus Came to Town</em>, Cote and Hart leave several unanswered questions regarding the characters' lives and the issues surrounding them. "Filmmakers tend to get carried away by the fact that they are working in a visual medium," says Mietkiewicz, "and not enough time is spent satisfying basic journalistic requirements." Cote and Hart respond by pointing out that they are not engaging in journalism. "We let the characters narrate the story," explains Hart. "We don't go for a lot of talking heads. The only characters speaking on camera are the protagonists, the rest is live action." Half-hour time slots (imposed by TV requirements) do not allow for much room to flesh out an individual's character and passions, and still present a sketch of the issues. And in films dealing with obscure individuals it is essential to draw in viewers, especially the targeted stimulus-craving youth audience. "We thought a half-hour time slot with its faster pace is more dynamic and easier to reach them," explains Cote. "We made a choice to do a certain type of film. Some of the more traditional investigative school tend to be more critical." <br />
<br />
Critically successful or not, Adobe's films, like all documentaries, are the result of a complex and intricate process. After researching an idea, filmmakers must sell it to the television networks. Once a network (or networks) is committed to broadcast, the filmmaker receives a licence or contract, and, more importantly partial funding. Andre Champagne, creative head of youth programming at TFO and a co-production partner on the second set of <em>Rainmakers</em> episodes, says that Cote and Hart are, "tough negotiators. Even though they're dealing with emotional subjects, they're shrewd businessmen." Obtaining that initial financial commitment--between ten and 15 per cent of the film's budget--triggers access to other sources of funding such as CIDA, Telefilm Canada and the Cable Production Fund. Finally, provincial and federal tax credits top up a film's finances. "It's an incredible challenge to go through all these different phases," says Hart. The whole process can take months, even years. One <em>Turning 16</em> episode took two years from idea to broadcast. "Robbie and Luc have a good reputation so they're able to put together these arrangements successfully," says Jerry Mackintosh, senior producer at CBC's <em>Newsworld</em>. <em>The Turning 16</em> series, for instance, was broadcast in thirty countries. <br />
<br />
In between projects, money generated from previous films carries Cote and Hart through. They have deliberately remained a small business, "a cottage industry," as Hart calls it. Cote adds, "we don't want to be a big company. We want to do our own films." To minimize costs, they hire technicians on a project-by-project basis. On location they keep the film crew to the bare essentials, one or the other of the two partners as director, plus a cameraman and soundman. <br />
<br />
When they first started out, Cote and Hart co-directed but six years ago that changed. "We have a different vision of things on a creative level," says Cote. "Our approaches to filmmaking are not exactly the same, and when we co-directed there were always concessions to the other." Nevertheless, each of their films is joint effort--Hart undertakes most of the writing, while Cote's forte is in the editing suite. Their different roles do not stop there, the partners have distinctly different views about the importance of journalism in documentary films. For Cote, the expression of opinions is intrinsic to the process of filmmaking. "I'm a filmmaker with a point of view," says Cote, "not necessarily with a rigorous journalistic approach. I have a feeling, I have a story that I want to tell." Hart agrees but is careful to add that the journalistic approach does play a part in their films. "There's a big part of me that is a journalist," says Hart, "that's looking, listening and asking questions. The end product may not be a pure journalistic story but there are a lot of journalistic skills involved." <br />
<em></em><br />
<em></em><br />
<em>In a Rio de Janeiro courtyard a group of boys, mostly teenagers, shout and roughhouse. The boys, street kids, barefoot and stripped to the waist, look lean and muscular with close cropped hair. Three long-haired men, circus instructors, struggle to control the boys and teach them some circus skills. Sixteen-year old Cosme pauses long enough to speak to the camera. "I've been living in the street since I was six years old. My mother also lived with me in the street. My father drank and I helped my mother. Sometimes I returned home, but I found living in the street better. I managed all alone. I thought that I didn't need anyone's help and I could do whatever I wanted." Another boy, eyes in a stoned glaze, shouts at one of the men. "I'm a mafioso. I smoke marijuana, take coke and sniff glue. I don't want to know about school, just drugs." Alain Veilleux is with the Cirque de Soleil. "I know that anything can happen. It could be unsettling. But I can feel the energy even in the little space like this. Since we started working it's been going well." The courtyard is in chaos, the instructors plead for order. "It's impossible to work!" shouts instructor Geraldo Miranda. "If it continues like this we'll cancel everything. There are some who won't come back. It's finished for today."</em><br />
<em></em><br />
<em></em><br />
The idea for<em> When the Circus Came to Town</em>, did not originate with Cote and Hart. But helping street kids, the goal of Cirque de Soleil's humanitarian program, Cirque du Monde, appealed to them. It was difficult film to make. Gaining the kids' confidence took considerable effort. Yet some of the kids' lives did change for the better after the experience. "Jardel (one of the Rio kids) is now a professional performer," says Cote. Others remain on the street. "A year after the filming I went back," says Cote, "and found Cosme as messed up as ever. I'll be surprised if he lives to be 25." Filming in the streets of Rio de Janeiro, Luc and his crew had to constantly watch out for muggings and thefts. The kids were wild--physically rough with each other and, at times, with the film crew. <br />
<br />
Despite filming conditions that are often difficult, Adobe's films are known for their high technical calibre, says TFO's Andre Champagne. That competence partly depends on developing an intimacy with the subject--the only way to get the camera and microphone in close to the subject. "They have gifts to do this work," says Rena Mcleod, subject of one of the <em>Rainmakers </em>episodes, speaking of Hart and his crew. "I could trust them and I could open myself. They're respectful of other people and that's what has earned them respect from everyone else." It takes a patient director and crew to gain the subject's trust. It also requires a lot of preparation and ground work. Cote and Hart do not simply fly into a location and start filming--there may be months of preliminary contacts with the subjects. And when something major is happening in the subject's life, a demonstration or a conference, for instance, they plan to go on location.<br />
<br />
<br />
<em>In a Bangkok AIDS shelter, a dozen women sit at a table. Jongsada Suwanchondee is a Rainmaker, a former heroin addict who is now HIV positive, and a advocate for people HIV positive and AIDS infected. She asks, "How do you feel about living here at the emergency shelter?" One woman tells how her family won't allow her to take meals with them. Her eyes moisten. She starts to cry and dabs her face with a handkerchief. In a low calm voice Suwanchondee councils, "Our families wouldn't be sacred of us if they knew more about AIDS." The camera cuts to another woman, face contorted by anguish as she sweeps tears away, a toddler in her lap. The child is oblivious to her mother's sobs. Suwanchondee walks around to the weeping woman and asks, "Do you want to talk? If you want to cry, it's OK." Suwanchondee embraces the sobbing woman. "She wants to go home," someone says, "but she's afraid that her parents won't accept her." Quick cuts reveal most of the women weeping.</em><br />
<br />
<br />
Behind the camera Cote, the soundwoman and the cameraman were in tears. Suwanchondee embraced each member of the camera crew in turn. "For two weeks we were surrounded by all these people," Cote recalls. "They were all young, very sick, others not sick but HIV positive. We shared everything with them, we ate with them. When this happened on the last day of filming it was very intense. All of us cried like babies." It took two weeks of patience to capture the scene on film. Nothing as emotional had occurred until then. Cote used Suwanchondee to put a human face on the HIV problem in the developing world and at the same time show that those who are afflicted have the hope of living in dignity. <br />
<br />
It seems fitting that an important part of Cote and Hart's philosophy is to become part of the lives of the people whose stories they tell. They still keep in touch with many of them, including Suwanchondee, and have organized several events around the films, raising funds for the various causes that the protagonists champion. In a <em>Turning 16</em> episode, Cote and Hart filmed 16-year-old Rosie giving birth to her son J.R. Now, every year on his birthday J.R. receives a present from the two partners. In Harlem, Cote and Hart organized a screening of the <em>Rainmakers</em> episode featuring Victor Cherry, a former drug dealer turned poet and "peace maker." Early in 1998 Cote and Hart put Cherry in touch with Rena Mcleod. She invited Cherry to spend two weeks in Winnipeg to hold seminars on poetry and non-violence for her group of native youth. "It was wonderful," says Mcleod. "Victor had a positive influence on my group and on others." And with Cote and Hart's help, Suwanchondee got in touch with a young woman featured in a <em>Turning 16</em> episode who is fighting for the rights of child labourers in Thailand. Now the two women help each other with their respective causes. <br />
<br />
These days Cote and Hart are so busy working on the second set of <em>Rainmakers</em> episodes that they have had to turn down an invitation to film a Cirque du Soleil tour of China, something they would have liked to do. If anything, the second set of <em>Rainmakers</em> is more ambitious than the first. Cote and Hart have deliberately sought out controversial issues in contrasting locations and cultures. Gay and lesbians rights in Zimbabwe are hardly considered newsworthy by the mainstream media, but Cote and Hart are documenting the story of a lesbian whose life is under constant threat in that country. Similarly the rights of the disabled in Mozambique gain little media coverage. In Mozambique, Hart will profile a young man, deaf and blind from childhood, fighting for the rights of the disabled whose numbers grow daily in a land littered with millions of unexploded land mines. Not all of the <em>Rainmakers</em> are from the Third World. One of the new episodes will focus on a young man working with the homeless in Tokyo. In Turkey for another episode, Cote was detained for several hours and questioned by police while doing preliminary research on a woman fighting for human rights. <br />
<br />
Work on the new <em>Rainmakers</em> episodes will occupy Cote and Hart until September 1999. In the meantime they are looking for new project ideas. "Right now we are in that creative space where we're looking to plant the seeds for something new," says Hart. Like their other projects, their next film will probably be the stuff of television--competent, workmanlike and uncontroversial, perhaps leaving the discerning adult viewer less than satisfied. And, like their other films, it will most likely draw audiences already sympathetic to the subject matter. But, Cote and Hart aim much of their film work at teenagers and young adults. These are impressionable audiences whose views, opinions and perceptions are in constant flux. If they succeed in opening the eyes of even a few, maybe they will have achieved their goal--sow the seeds of change and understanding. Naive? Optimistic? Perhaps, but with their personal approach to filmmaking, Cote and Hart, like their subjects striving to make the world better, have themselves become Rainmakers.Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-19602073493048717222012-09-24T23:15:00.000+02:002012-10-15T20:22:35.737+02:00ENTRE DUES SOLITUDES; una família catalana al Canadà als anys 1960<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcbDYBa8NNeTj1xtopCxeNSoWjGx8LAydmbxbZkJ3Q1R8jc7VXAo5kRGgbzd7GJtEosrJapnO6VUlSqenyDmzO-_VpOMhOh272w0tn6RSOoqfGIGeEsm0HIRQ-i6zMnZ-G6elqM9oQ1kg/s1600/DouglasDC6B-CPA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcbDYBa8NNeTj1xtopCxeNSoWjGx8LAydmbxbZkJ3Q1R8jc7VXAo5kRGgbzd7GJtEosrJapnO6VUlSqenyDmzO-_VpOMhOh272w0tn6RSOoqfGIGeEsm0HIRQ-i6zMnZ-G6elqM9oQ1kg/s400/DouglasDC6B-CPA.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span id="internal-source-marker_0.5436753883161072" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Tinc un vague record de la meva primera visió del Canadà. Era a finals d’octubre de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">1960 i tenia encara no quatre anys. Estava amb els pares i la meva germana petita a </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">bord d’un avió que havia aterrat a Gander, Terranova, per omplir el dipòsit després de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">creuar l’Atlàntic. Recordo que era gris i nevava i que mirant per la finestra de la cabina </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">vaig veure uns homes vestits amb anoracs que treballaven al voltant de l’aeronau. Es </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">veia desolat, fred i tan estrany. Per què érem en aquell lloc que semblava deixat de la </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">mà de Déu? Anàvem cap a Mont-real. Els pensaments i els sentiments dels meus pares </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">havien d’haver estat molt contradictoris, mentre miraven per aquella mateixa finestra </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">allò que els devia semblar un abisme. A Barcelona, el dia abans, un grup de familiars i </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">amics ens havia acomiadat abans de pujar al tren per anar a Madrid, on havíem d’agafar </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">el vol. Després d’haver decidit emigrar i marxar d’Espanya, els meus pares sabien que </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">era poc probable que tornessin a veure mai més aquella gent. Aquella primera impressió </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">del Canadà, ja en les urpes de l’hivern, no els devia haver posat les coses fàcils. Per a la </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">meva mare era encara més estressant perquè estava embarassada del tercer fill. Havia </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">estat una decisió difícil, però els meus pares pensaven que Espanya, i Catalunya, amb les </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">seves limitades perspectives, no tenia cap futur per a ells.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">El meu pare, que era d’Igualada, i la meva mare, de Manresa, van ser criats i educats </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">a Catalunya abans i durant la Guerra Civil. Havien patit a la guerra, però ni més ni </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">menys que la majoria. El meu pare, massa jove per servir a l’exèrcit republicà, havia </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">treballat amb el seu pare, un mecànic de l’exèrcit. Després de la guerra va ser convidat </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">a servir a la Infanteria de Marina i el van enviar a Mallorca. Era present al setembre </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">de 1943 quan una part de la flota italiana, fugint dels alemanys, va atracar a Palma. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Després de fer el servei militar va treballar en diversos oficis, fins i tot com a obrer i </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">com a camioner, mentre estudiava per delineant. La família de la mare tenia un estanc </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">al carrer d’Urgell, a Manresa. Durant la guerra, l’escorcoll de la casa familiar buscant </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">parents amagats o imatges religioses li va ocasionar molta angoixa. I va sobreviure de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">ben poc a un bombardeig aeri quan una paret li va caure gairebé al damunt. Després </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">de la guerra va ajudar a cuidar la seva mare malalta mentre treballava a l’estanc. Els </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">meus pares es van conèixer el 1954 i després de casar-se es van establir a Manresa. Poc </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">després van començar a pensar a emigrar. Al principi volien anar a Austràlia, però no </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">podien afrontar la despesa. Casualment, per aquella mateixa època el Canadà va fer un </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">acord amb Espanya en què acceptava un petit nombre d’emigrants. Els meus pares van </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">sol·licitar un lloc i van ser-hi admesos.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">El meu pare em va dir una vegada que, abans d’emigrar, la seva imatge del Canadà es </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">basava en un musical de Hollywood, Rose Marie. En aquella pel·lícula el Canadà era </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">representat com un país amb unes quantes ciutats envoltades de boscos immensos i </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">poblades per cambreres que cantaven, llenyataires, indígenes i policies muntats amb </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">casaques escarlates. La realitat era prou diferent. En els anys posteriors a la Segona </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Guerra Mundial l’economia del Canadà creixia vigorosament. La guerra va salvar el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Canadà dels estralls de la Gran Depressió. Tot i tenir una població de només 11 milions </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">al 1939, prop d’un milió d’homes i dones van servir a les forces armades. Els canadencs </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">estaven orgullosos del seu paper en la guerra mundial. El Canadà s’havia beneficiat de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">l’establiment de noves indústries que havien donat suport a l’esforç bèl·lic. Quan va </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">tornar la pau, hi havia llocs de feina per a tothom. Tants llocs de feina que el Canadà </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">necessitava immigrants per treballar en els camps de petroli d’Alberta, en la construcció </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">de carreteres i preses a la Columbia Britànica i al Quebec, en la fabricació de cotxes a </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ontario i en la collita de blat a Saskatchewan. Als europeus que havien patit la guerra, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">el Canadà els semblava la terra promesa gràcies a la pau, la seguretat i la perspectiva de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">tenir feina. En els vint anys següents a la fi de la guerra van arribar-hi gairebé 3 milions </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">d’immigrants. Era una època d’optimisme i de confiança en un futur que semblava </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">brillant. El contrast amb l’Espanya dels anys cinquanta difícilment podria haver estat </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">més gran. Vint anys després de la Guerra Civil, l’estat d’ànim era ombrívol a Espanya </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">amb l’escassetat de béns i d’aliments, i l’elevat atur. La situació econòmica era tan greu </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">que el govern espanyol encoratjava l’emigració. Sota la dictadura feixista, Espanya era </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">una pària entre les nacions occidentals.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Poc després d’arribar a Mont-real el meu pare va trobar feina com a delineant en una </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">oficina d’arquitectura. Uns dies abans de Nadal el propietari i la secretària de l’empresa </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">van fugir amb la nòmina. Semblava que serien unes festes molt tristes. No obstant això, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">el dia abans de Nadal, vam tenir la visita d’una organització benèfica. Algú els havia </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">alertat que una família de nous immigrants havia perdut el seu únic mitjà de suport. Van </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">deixar bosses de comestibles, algunes joguines i vint dòlars en efectiu. Els meus pares es </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">van quedar atònits. El dia de Cap d’Any un cotxe de policia va acompanyar la meva mare </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">a l’hospital, on va néixer la seva segona filla. Després de les festes el meu pare va fer </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">servir els vint dòlars per agafar l’autobús i buscar una altra feina. En va trobar aviat. Un </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">que ja estava empleat a l’empresa, un altre immigrant espanyol, hi havia causat tan bona </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">impressió que el meu pare va ser contractat, en part, perquè ell també era d’Espanya. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Aquell espanyol anònim va passar a formar part de la tradició familiar. Així que després </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">d’unes setmanes ben agitades i de l’experiència d’un hivern quebequès, l’any nou va </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">resultar més estable i positiu.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">El 1960, Mont-real seguia sent la ciutat més gran de Canadà i mantenia la seva posició </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">com a centre empresarial i cultural del país. Mont-real i Barcelona són en certa manera </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">similars. Totes dues són ciutats bilingües envoltades de territoris que són gairebé </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">monolingües. Les dues atreien immigrants, Mont-real de tot Europa i Barcelona del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">sud d’Espanya. Però hi havia diferències significatives. Barcelona estava assetjada per </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">una dictadura que asfixiava la cultura catalana. A Mont-real el visitant ocasional hauria </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">pensat que l’anglès i el francès estaven en un mateix nivell, però en realitat hi havia </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">tensions entre “les deux solitudes”. Mont-real era encara el centre de les empreses </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">canadenques, però aquest era un bastió gairebé totalment dels angloparlants. Fins i tot </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">a les ciutats petites del Quebec on la població era gairebé íntegrament de parla francesa, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">allà on hi havia indústries grans els “caps” eren quasi sempre anglocanadencs o nord-</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">americans. La manca de poder econòmic i polític era una font de ressentiment per als </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">quebequesos. Just després de la segona guerra mundial havia començat una reacció </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">contra el predomini de la societat anglocanadenca i la influència de l’Església Catòlica. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Amb un impuls que va anar prenent lentament, però inexorablement, va tenir lloc </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">el que es va conèixer com la “Revolució Silenciosa”. L’objectiu d’aquesta “revolució” </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">l’exemplificava el lema “maîtres chez nous”.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Els meus pares creien que era important que la nostra família s’adaptés a la vida </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">canadenca, però això no significava que descartessin la seva identitat catalana. A casa, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">com que els pares parlaven català, les meves germanes i jo el vam aprendre a parlar. Mai </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">no es parlava en castellà. Malauradament, tot i que sabíem parlar-lo, les meves </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">germanes i jo no sabíem llegir en català. La nostra identitat com a catalans depenia </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">gairebé totalment de la llengua parlada i teníem poques oportunitats de parlar-lo fora de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">casa. Coneixíem altres famílies catalanes a Mont-real, però només les vèiem </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">ocasionalment. Als pares els agradaven molt els llibres i n’hi havia centenars a casa, en </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">quatre idiomes, però molt pocs eren en català –entre ells una sèrie de Meravelles de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Catalunya. Una trucada telefònica transatlàntica era un esdeveniment rar i car. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Arribaven cartes de familiars i d’amics, però jo no les podia llegir. A més, eren de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">persones que jo no coneixia. Per a les meves germanes i per a mi el coneixement de la </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">cultura i la història catalanes depenia per complet d’allò que els nostres pares ens </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">explicaven. Als dinars del diumenge ens contaven històries de la Guerra Civil, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">caminades a Montserrat, vacances als Pirineus o viatges a la Costa Brava. Ens </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">assabentàvem de fragments de la tradició familiar –un dels meus avis era anarquista, un </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">altre havia estat guàrdia civil i un tercer un dels fundadors del club de futbol d’Igualada. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Pel costat de la mare, teníem alguns familiars que eren pagesos i d’altres que eren </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">industrials.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Les nostres connexions amb Catalunya eren tènues i principalment a través de la </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">meva tia, germana de la meva mare, que ens mantenia informats de què passava “a </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">casa”. A més a més de cartes, de tant en tant ens enviava paquets de diaris i revistes. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">En algun moment de 1963 ens va sorprendre quan, a més dels diaris i revistes, ens va </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">enviar uns quants discos. Aquests discos van ser una novetat perquè eren en català. La </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">imatge de la portada d’un d’aquests discos em va fer una impressió duradora –un jove </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">amb una guitarra recolzat en una paret de maó, i un nen petit al fons que se’l mirava. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Per descomptat era la gravació icònica de Raimon, Al vent. Un nen de set anys que </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">vivia al Canadà era poc probable que entengués el missatge de Raimon, però els meus </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">pares sí que el van entendre. Criat al Canadà, jo estava sota la influència de la cultura </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">angloamericana. Recordo amb força el dia que els Beatles van sortir a la televisió, a l’Ed </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Sullivan Show, en directe des de Nova York al febrer de 1964. Era un diumenge a la nit i </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">tres o quatre famílies catalanes s’havien reunit per sopar i veure junts el programa en un </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">televisor en blanc i negre.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Quan vam arribar a Canadà jo era massa jove per anar a escola, però vaig començar a </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">aprendre francès, la llengua dominant al nostre barri. Quan vaig tenir l’edat suficient </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">per anar a l’escola, els meus pares tenien tres opcions. Podien enviar-me a una </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">escola catòlica de parla francesa, a una escola catòlica de parla anglesa o a una escola </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">protestant de parla anglesa –totes elles amb suport públic. Hi havia un parell de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">raons per les quals van triar l’escola catòlica de parla anglesa. En primer lloc, érem </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">nominalment una família catòlica i per a la meva mare la religió era mportant. El </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">meu pare podria arribar a un compromís en aquest tema, malgrat que tenia forts </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">sentiments anticlericals que havien estat profundament desenvolupats a Espanya – </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">fins i tot acabaria assistint a les misses de Nadal i de Pasqua, al Canadà. L’elecció de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">l’anglès era una mica més pensada. No hi havia cap dubte que el gruix del poder polític i </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">econòmic estava en mans anglocanadenques i que tenia més sentit vincular el teu futur </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">amb aquest grup. La majoria dels immigrants feien la mateixa elecció. I així, quan vaig </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">començar l’escola vaig haver d’aprendre un altre idioma.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Un dia de 1965, tota la família, ben endiumenjats, amb el nostre Pontiac de segona mà </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">ens vam dirigir cap a un edifici governamental del centre de la ciutat. Davant d’un jutge </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">els pares van repetir una promesa i els van donar a tots dos un document on s’afirmava </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">que érem ciutadans del Canadà. Ja no érem “espanyols”. Per als meus pares, la ruptura </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">amb el seu país de naixement s’havia completat legalment. Devia ser un moment molt </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">emotiu per a ells, perquè, en aquella època, se sentien realment com a casa al Canadà. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Com a família d’immigrants érem part d’una tercera realitat de la societat canadenca, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">una realitat que finalment portaria al concepte de multiculturalisme. Tot i que érem de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">fora, havíem estat rebuts i acceptats. Els meus pares n’estaven molt agraïts. En aquell </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">moment érem una típica família de classe mitjana amb una casa en un barri nou als </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">afores de Mont-real. Només que parlàvem en català a casa. Els veïns de la casa del costat </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">eren filipins, i parlaven espanyol, i a l’altre costat hi vivia una parella anglocanadenca. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Altres veïns eren francocanadencs, alemanys, italians i negres del Carib. Hi havia </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">catòlics, protestants i jueus.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">El 1967, Canadà va celebrar el centenari de la confederació. Hi havia un ambient </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">d’optimisme i de celebració arreu del país. Les tensions entre els anglesos i els francesos </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">semblaven oblidades durant aquell any feliç. Cada ciutat tenia el seu “projecte del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">centenari”, ja fos la construcció d’un nou espai públic, d’un nou parc o l’organització </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">d’algun esdeveniment especial. L’esdeveniment més gran va ser a Mont-real, on durant </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">tot l’estiu la ciutat va ser seu de l’Expo ’67, una espectacular exposició universal. (Em </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">vaig quedar decebut perquè Espanya no hi tenia pavelló.) Canadencs de tot el país, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">i molts estrangers, van viatjar a Mont-real per visitar l’Expo. Al final de l’any es va </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">produir la sensació que alguna cosa anava malament, que hi havia assumptes pendents. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">L’any següent va ser, al meu parer, fonamental en l’eventual resolució de la tensió </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">entre “les deux solitudes”. Aquell any Pierre Trudeau, un profund intel·lectual </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">francocanadenc, va ser elegit Primer Ministre del Canadà. Federalista apassionat i </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">perfectament bilingüe, Trudeau creia que els interessos del Quebec se servien millor </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">com a part d’un Canadà veritablement bilingüe. Trudeau va anar a Ottawa com a cap </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">d’un grup de polítics quebequesos que pensaven de la mateixa manera, alguns dels quals </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">no sabien parlar anglès. El problema era que mentre que els federalistes s’imaginaven </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">un Canadà totalment bilingüe de costa a costa, en realitat el país es trobava molt lluny </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">de ser-ho. En contra de Trudeau i del seu grup d’afins quebequesos hi havia el govern </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">provincial del Quebec, fortament nacionalista. Un dels ministres provincials, un ardent </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">experiodista, René Lévesque, va formar un partit separatista, el Parti Québécois. Això </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">va condicionar l’escenari polític del Canadà durant la dècada següent. En certa manera </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">era una cursa entre els dos grups. Els federalistes tenien pressa per legislar i promoure </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">el bilingüisme real, mentre que el PQ intentava convèncer els quebequesos dels beneficis </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">de la independència. Com a catalans podíem simpatitzar amb les aspiracions de la </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">minoria francesa, però també admiràvem la naturalesa democràtica del Canadà. Per </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">descomptat va ser un debat apassionant, amb elements de violència que els meus pares, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">que recordaven la guerra civil, van trobar enquietants.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">A partir de 1963 hi va haver una sèrie d’incidents que van destapar els conflictes socials </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">i culturals que es covaven a Mont-real i al Quebec. La majoria dels incidents van ser </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">relativament menors. Un obscur grup d’esquerra, el Front de Libération du Québec, va </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">posar petites bombes en bústies i edificis d’oficines. Altres incidents van ser més greus, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">com per exemple els disturbis que normalment acompanyaven les celebracions de Sant </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Joan a Mont-real. Un dels esdeveniments més violents es va produir a l’octubre 1969 </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">amb la destrucció d’un garatge d’autobusos i els consegüents avalots que van causar </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">dos morts i danys per milions de dòlars. El garatge era al centre de Mont-real, prop de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">l’oficina del meu pare. Quan va arribar a casa aquella nit semblava molest i preocupat </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">pel que havia vist. Els pares van comentar el que estava passant i crec que ho van </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">comparar amb el que havien vist, a més gran escala, trenta anys abans a Espanya. Van </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">parlar d’anar-se’n de Mont-real. El meu pare va fer alguns viatges a Ottawa i a Toronto </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">buscant una altra feina i a principi de desembre vam agafar el tren i ens en vam anar cap </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">a Toronto. Era com si haguéssim emigrat una altra vegada. Altres famílies catalanes ens </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">hi havien precedit.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">El clímax de l’intent de l’FLQ per la revolució violenta i la independència del Quebec </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">es va produir a l’octubre de 1970. Un ministre del govern del Quebec i un diplomàtic </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">britànic van ser segrestats per dos comandos de l’FLQ. Quan pocs dies després el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">ministre va ser assassinat; això va significar un xoc intens per a un país on l’únic </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">assassinat polític anterior havia ocorregut al 1868. Afortunadament, el britànic va </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">ser alliberat il·lès i els seus segrestadors autoritzats a marxar a Cuba. Però l’abast de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">les operacions de l’FLQ era desconegut i per tant el govern federal, sota la direcció </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">de Trudeau, va adoptar una postura ferma contra els terroristes i va suspendre les </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">llibertats civils. Tot i que els amoïnava la imposició de l’estat d’excepció, la majoria dels </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">canadencs, inclosos molts quebequesos, van donar suportar a Trudeau. No obstant </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">això, la violència de l’FLQ i la resposta del govern canadenc van inquietar molta gent. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Els canadencs no estaven acostumats a veure soldats amb metralladores patrullant </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">els carrers –era una cosa que només ocorria en altres països. La “crisi d’octubre” va </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">precipitar reaccions imprevistes. D’una banda els quebequesos, tant els federalistes com </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">els separatistes, van rebutjar fermament la violència com a mitjà per a un fi. De l’altra, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">els separatistes estaven més decidits que mai a utilitzar les urnes per complir els seus </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">objectius.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Des de Toronto vam seguir els esdeveniments amb inquietud, ansietat i, un temps </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">després, amb alleujament. Uns anys més tard, al 1980, un govern del Quebec presidit </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">per Lévesque va portar la qüestió del separatisme a referèndum, que va ser rebutjat. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Durant els anys seixanta la incertesa de la situació política al Quebec, juntament amb </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">l’afirmació per part dels quebequesos dels seus drets econòmics i culturals, van ser </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">la causa que molts anglocanadencs s’hi sentissin incòmodes i que molts deixessin </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">la província. Entre ells hi havia la família de la meva dona. Moltes de les grans </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">corporacions van traslladar la seva seu de Mont-real a Toronto. Com a resultat Toronto </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">es va convertir en la principal ciutat del Canadà. És una posició que encara té avui però </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">que està sent desafiada per altres ciutats de l’oest del Canadà. En retrospectiva, potser </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">la meva família i d’altres van reaccionar de forma exagerada però en aquell moment les </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">amenaces semblaven massa familiars a persones com els meus pares que havien patit </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">altres conflictes civils.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Sovint penso en aquell dia d’octubre de 1960, quan mirava per la finestra de l’avió a </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Gander i crec que els meus pares van fer una bona elecció en anar al Canadà. Com a país </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">té els seus problemes i les seves debilitats, però ha heretat un sistema parlamentari fort i </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">té una tradició de respecte per l’imperi de la llei. La fundació del Canadà es basava en un </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">compromís entre els angloparlants, en la seva majoria protestants, i els francoparlants, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">que en la seva majoria eren catòlics. En temps de conflictes la tradició de compromís </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">ha servit bé al Canadà i a la seva gent, i els ha ajudat a prendre la decisió d’abraçar tant </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">el multiculturalisme com el bilingüisme. És una ruta que implica respecte per als qui </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">són d’una altra raça, religió o cultura o parlen un idioma diferent. L’elecció es va fer </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">mitjançant un debat obert, amb les urnes i en els dos idiomes oficials.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span class="hps"></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="hps">Aquest</span> <span class="hps">article va ser</span> <span class="hps">publicat</span> <span class="hps">a la revista</span> <span class="hps">L'Avenç</span> <span class="hps">el 2012</span></span></span>Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-26543516371674915002012-08-15T16:21:00.001+02:002012-10-22T17:21:39.116+02:00A Homage to Catalan: the Struggle of a Language<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw6A4yT-sJnLTxoKu0s4Ja0a5GnL2sn169a0TjSnyYqQSW7_TV8l2pz-hJCxeBYAVz6F_rhtBAAuK3qv7ep7jrfOVScojS2vowkAZ6ZWurtbWmmOxJFKIkmcTdO_BHtYo2U1hOjRoihTI/s1600/LLENGUA+MURAL" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw6A4yT-sJnLTxoKu0s4Ja0a5GnL2sn169a0TjSnyYqQSW7_TV8l2pz-hJCxeBYAVz6F_rhtBAAuK3qv7ep7jrfOVScojS2vowkAZ6ZWurtbWmmOxJFKIkmcTdO_BHtYo2U1hOjRoihTI/s400/LLENGUA+MURAL" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Every Sunday morning several dozen used-book dealers set up their stalls under the ornate cast-iron structure of an old Barcelona municipal market. Many of the books for sale at the Mercat de Sant Antoni are mass market printings and hardly merit a look--at least from my point of view. However, some of the dealers have stock worth going over especially if you have an interest in Catalan books. Admittedly not many foreigners would be looking for books written in Catalan--very few tourists attend--but after all it is Barcelona the capital of Catalonia and the centre of Catalan culture. I happen to read Catalan and I like to visit the market whenever I can, you never know what you may find. In any case, most of the books are in Spanish but if you pick through the piles and rows of books you will find a few in English, French and German. (1)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">If one spends some time sorting through the Catalan books eventually an odd situation becomes apparent. It is very unlikely that one will find books in Catalan, nor any newspapers, magazines or comic books, not even advertising posters, from the period between 1939 and 1975. A little familiarity with 20th-century Spanish history is enough to explain the cause for that gap. Those are the years that coincide with the dictatorship of General Franco. During the dictatorship there were severe restrictions on the publication of Catalan books, magazines and newspapers. In the aftermath of the Spanish Civil War very few books were published in Catalan, although gradually by the 1960s several hundred Catalan books did appear annually (2). There was, however, a complete ban on Catalan-language newspapers, radio, and television broadcasts. The Franco regime also tried to go further. If someone happened to speak Catalan within earshot of a policeman or person of authority they could at the very least be reprimanded and at worst arrested. Admittedly, in the last years of the dictatorship the public use of Catalan was tolerated, but only up to a point. (3)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">And yet, under the dictatorship several million people could not find a book, a magazine or even a comic book written in their mother tongue. Even though parents and grandparents spoke to their children and grandchildren in Catalan they could not find a children's book written in their native language to read together. Friends speaking in Catalan to each other had to do so behind closed doors, lovers had to whisper between themselves. People dared not to address a policeman, a politician or even a priest in Catalan. Strangers meeting for the first time would be circumspect but later perhaps, once they knew each other better, they would dare to speak in Catalan. Speaking one's mother tongue was a crime.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Catalan, like Spanish or Castilian, is a Romance language that has evolved over the centuries from roots in Vulgar Latin. Catalan was clearly differentiated as a unique language by the end of the 10th century and first appeared in documents and text in the 12th century. By the 13th and 14th centuries Catalan poetry and literature reached a high level of sophistication. And so while under the Franco dictatorship the public use of Catalan was forbidden there were hidden away in libraries and archives, books and manuscripts hundreds of years old written in Catalan, as old or older than many Spanish texts. Catalan dialects continue to be spoken in Valencia and the Balearic Islands. Some Catalan is spoken in the neighbouring region of France but the only country where Catalan is the only official language is in the tiny landlocked country of Andorra. Today there are more than seven million Catalan speakers and perhaps an additional three million that can at least understand the spoken language.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">With the death of Franco in 1975 and Spain's transition from dictatorship to democracy the status of Catalan began to change. The Spanish constitution of 1978, to a limited degree, recognises the other languages of Spain such as Basque, Galician and Catalan. Section 3, clause 3 of the constitution reads; "The richness of the linguistic modalities of Spain is a cultural patrimony which will be the object of special respect and protection." (4) Unfortunately, this clause, to paraphrase Shakespeare, is observed more in the breach than the observance. For many Spaniards the only language of Spain is Castilian. Few Catalans would agree that their language gets "special respect and protection" from the Spanish state. Catalan is not spoken in the Spanish Cortes, or parliament, it is not spoken in the Supreme Court, and no Spanish Prime Minister ever speaks in Catalan. The symbol of the Spanish State, the monarchy, does not seem to understand Catalan. No Spanish prime ministers dares utter even a few words in Basque or Catalan at official ceremonies. To speak, much less promote, one of the minority languages infuriates many uni-lingual Spaniards. Those same Spaniards have no problem learning English or French, and munching on their breakfast cereal they can stare at the box labeled in Spanish and Portuguese and not make a fuss. But if the labeling includes Catalan they are "offended." They take it as a personal affront when someone speaks Catalan in their presence.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">But why hang on to a minority language that has limited use outside of its geographic limits? That question is sometimes difficult to explain to people who only speak one of the major languages of the world such as English, Hindi-Urdu, Mandarin, Russian, Arabic or Spanish. Every language that has disappeared, and there are hundreds of minor ones that are no longer spoken, diminishes humanity's patrimony. A language represents the culture of all those people who have ever spoken it, going back through generations. A language reflects the history of its speakers, it reflects the environmental conditions of those people and how they use it to relate to their world. A Castilian's view of Catalan history is likely to be very different from a Catalan's perspective even though the two languages have their origins in Latin. How can a uni-lingual English-Canadian hope to really understand the history, culture or music of French-Canada? A language is a map of how a people relate to their environment, how individuals relate to each other.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The repression of Catalan during the dictatorship caused some peculiar effects in the use of the language that linger to this day. Despite the dictatorship Catalans continued to speak their language at home. Parents would speak to their children in Catalan thus passing on knowledge of the language, at least verbally. But without the written word many Catalans struggled to read what few books were available and even fewer were able to write the language. Even knowledge of grammar and proper syntax was limited because there was no formal instruction available, Catalan was not taught in schools for almost 40 years. A friend of mine explained that when he was growing up during the dictatorship his family only spoke Catalan at home, he had very little exposure to Castilian. When he started school at the age of five he had tremendous difficulty because he had to learn what was to him a foreign language. And even today many older Catalans whose schooling coincided with the years of the dictatorship have taken classes in order to learn to write a language that they already speak fluently.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">To bolster and defend the use of Catalan the Generalitat--the government of Catalonia--has several important tools at its disposal. Perhaps the most important in terms of Catalan's long term prospects is the education system. The use of Catalan in the public school system has been "normalized" since the 1980s. What that unfortunate Orwellian term means is that Catalan is the language of instruction in the school system. Castilian and English are taught as subjects. The fact is that while Castilian is taught as a separate subject all students in the Catalan education system graduate perfectly bilingual. Catalonia continues to be part of Spain and the Spanish language dominates most of the media. Television, radio, movies, books, newspapers, advertising, and magazines are predominantly in Spanish. So despite being instructed primarily in Catalan students are constantly exposed to Spanish. (If there is fault with the Catalan education system, a fault it shares with the other regions of Spain, it is the atrocious level of English instruction.) Studies have shown that Catalan students on average speak and write Castilian at a higher level than do students of other parts of Spain and where students are mostly monolingual.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Another threat that Catalan has had to endure, and to a certain extent still does, is the high level of immigration from the rest of Spain to Catalonia that took off in the 1950s and continues today. This immigration from the poorer parts of Spain to the wealthier Catalan provinces has been driven by legitimate economic reasons. The dictatorship, however, used the economic imbalances within Spain to encourage immigration to Catalonia by uni-lingual Castilian speakers in a perverse attempt to stifle Catalan. Most of these immigrants had no interest in learning Catalan and never have. The children and grandchildren of these immigrants have learned Catalan because they were enrolled in the Catalan public school system. Some non-Catalan parents have not been happy with this situation. They allege that Castilian has a "secondary" status within Catalonia and this situation is a source of frustration for them as parents who would like the choice to send their children to schools where the language of instruction is Castilian. Their argument is that Castilian is now subject the same repression that Catalan faced under the dictatorship.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The demand for a second stream in the Catalan school system where Spanish is used as the language of instruction would create long-term social divisions. In terms of social harmony it is better to have a single stream where there is one language of instruction and other languages are taught as subjects. Of course this is the argument used by Spanish nationalists who insist that only Castilian be used everywhere in Spain. However, languages like Basque and Catalan continue to flourish even after hundreds of years of repression by a long line of absolute monarchs and various dictatorships. How can Spain, a country that now aspires to be a democracy, deny the linguistic rights of significant numbers of it citizens? Simply put Catalans want to be able to speak their language at home and they want the same respect for their language from others.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">In any discussion of Catalonia some mention must be made of nationalism. Catalans are proud of their language and want to be able to use it and to speak it. They also want outsiders to at least acknowledge that Catalans have such rights. If this is not nationalism then I do not know what is. Now, nationalism can be a troubling concept and it acquired some very negative connotations over the course of the 20th century especially when it was based on race, national origin or religion. There is no need to go into a list of the past century's catastrophic events driven by nationalist ideologies. However, modern Catalan nationalism is based almost wholly on knowledge of the language. (There is a small minority of Catalan nationalists representing extreme right-wing views whose ideology is race-based but their numbers are more than countered by the much larger numbers of of the Spanish extreme-right.) When someone asks, Who is a Catalan? The answer is someone who speaks Catalan, however well or poorly, regardless of origin or ethnicity. Nationalism can be an ugly word but if it is based on knowledge of a language you can perhaps reconcile yourself to it. To enter the group, the tribe if you will, one has simply to make an effort to learn the language. There is no need to change religious beliefs, no need to falsify one's genealogical heritage, no need to spout slogans but simply learn a language and acceptance is instantaneous.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">When Spain's minister of foreign affairs declares that, "the excesses of nationalism have turned into veritable cancers of the modern Europe," I have to agree. (5) Nationalism can be an ugly force especially when it includes a racial element. In his comments the minister was making reference to nationalist tendencies that have resulted in the Albanian minority in the Serbian province Kosovo declaring independence. The minister neglected to make any mention of how Kosovars were killed in the name of Serbian nationalism. Spain continues to oppose the national aspiration of Kosovars because of the precedent it would set vis-a-vis its own minorities. And what about the Kurds in Turkey, or the Berbers in Morocco or the Cajuns in the United States, or Tibetans in China? Then we have the case of Spanish nationalism that seeks to deny the legitimacy of minority language groups within its borders.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The argument that some Spanish nationalists use against Catalan nationalists is that the Spanish language within Catalonia is now suffering the same sort of discrimination that Catalan suffered during the dictatorship. They avow that the language under siege within Catalonia is Spanish. Catalans counter that Catalonia is not Spain and insist that in Catalonia the language that should take precedence is Catalan. But Catalan continues to struggle even in Catalonia. If one spends any time in Barcelona or any part of Catalonia one soon realises that Spanish is spoken everywhere. And of course, there are no longer monolingual Catalan speakers like there were a few generations ago. No one in Catalonia is advocating that Spanish not be used. Catalans do not deny the heritage of the Spanish language in literature, music and art, and recognise its immense importance to Spain and the rest of the world. So the argument that the Spanish language is under siege is nonsense. Catalans would like to have their language and culture treated with the same respect and recognition.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Depending on which political party is in power the attitude of the Spanish state toward Catalan varies from barely tolerant to rabidly intolerant. As far as most Spanish politicians are concerned Spain should have only one official language and that the various autonomous regions now have too much power on this issue. The more extreme believe that Catalan, Basque and Galician should simply be ignored and that absolutely no concession be made to those languages. It is an attitude that often filters down to employees of the Spanish government and even today if someone addresses a Guardia Civil or member of the national police in Catalan they risk a reprimand. Using Catalan in a court of law invites being charged with contempt. It is sometimes difficult to get service in Catalan even from large corporations like the principal telephone company and the banks. Most Catalan speakers can relate anecdotes of insults they have been subjected to, some childishly minor others more deliberate, to their language when dealing with the state bureaucracy or when visiting other parts of Spain. Sometimes officials will ignore someone when spoken to in Catalan. More serious incidents include arrest by police when they have been addressed in Catalan. It is frankly a lot of pettiness.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">To foreigners these stories sound as so much internal bickering and are likely to produce yawns of boredom. Most foreigners, and I find Americans and Britons in particular, do not understand Catalans and their "obsession" with language. They view the whole language debate in Spain as a minor domestic squabble and have little idea why language matters so much to Catalans, or to Basques. It is the same reaction that English-Canadians had in the 1960s and 70s with respect to French-Canadians and their insistence on the use of French. Nowadays many English-speaking Americans are finding it difficult to reconcile themselves to the increasing use of Spanish within the United States even though Spanish has been spoken in parts of that country for hundreds of years--that the mother tongue of millions of Americans is Spanish. Many tourists who vacation in Barcelona are not even aware that Catalonia has its own language. The Castilian attitude toward Catalan is very similar to that of monolingual Americans who have little tolerance for anything other English especially since English has become the world's </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">lingua franca.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">In 2007 Catalan was the invited language at the Frankfurt Book Fair. It was of course a proud moment for Catalans to have their language, and culture, recognised at such a prestigious international event. From the moment that it was announced that Catalan was to be the invited language voices from the Spanish government raised howls of protest. There were also protests from Catalan writers who only write in Spanish because they were excluded from the event. It is certainly problematic to exclude someone from such a public event. However, the organisers of the Book Fair had in mind to showcase a language, and its culture, that only has about seven million readers and perhaps ten million speakers. There are more than 500 million Spanish-speakers in the world, Spanish hardly needs promoting when compared with Catalan. Again, I would point out that almost all Catalan speakers can read and write in Spanish. Catalan is not a threat to Spanish.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">One thing that is missing from the Spanish debate is the option of a federal system along the lines of either the Swiss or Canadian models where multiple languages have official status both in name and in fact. Unfortunately, Spanish (and Catalan) federalists are rare animals, they do exist but their voices are seldom heard over the roar of the nationalists on both sides. I say unfortunately because a strong federalist option would imply a spirit of compromise and understanding.</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">This failure is almost completely the fault of the centrist mind-set of Castilian politicians and their supporters in the Spanish media. There are few in Madrid who would dare speak of a country that revels in the diversity of its constituent regions, including the diversity of cultures and uniqueness of the various languages and dialects.</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Spanish nationalists claim that elimination of the minority languages would resolve the country's divisions. But why is it a problem, if the various regions have their own customs, cultures, cuisines, celebrations or languages? Yes there are costs in administering a multilingual state but what of it? But, there are also benefits to the individual that can speak more than one language.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">For Spanish nationalists the preferred state model is the French system that has over the last two hundred years managed to make nearly extinct all of the regional languages of France like Breton, Alsatian, Normand, and even Basque and Catalan within its borders. The typical PP politico looks with envy at what the French elite centred in Paris has "achieved" and would love to emulate it in Spain. In the opinion of former Catalan president Jordi Pujol, "Spain has decided that it has to be like France. Total homogenization is the aim." (6) The Spanish state he says wants to eliminate Catalan little by little. On the other hand a federalist model would be welcome by a majority of Catalans but there are few who believe that Madrid would support such an option.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">On Sunday mornings at the Mercat de Sant Antoni I may purchase a book in Catalan but I am also just as likely to take home a book in Spanish, or English or French for that matter. The three latter languages are spoken by a combined total of more than a billion people throughout the world. The literature of each of those languages is of immense importance to humankind's patrimony--imagine all the books and songs written in each of those languages. Would it not be a tremendous loss for humanity if Cervantes’ works had not been written, if Shakespeare's plays had never been handed down to us and if Moliere's plays had never been performed. Humanity would feel those losses as keenly as we feel the loss of so much of classical Greece's literature or the various texts that are referenced in the Old Testament but are now lost. And yet, even today a minor language like Catalan struggles to be heard because it has the additional burden of having to suffer from the chauvinism of a minority of Spanish-speakers who happen to rule Catalonia from Madrid. Catalan is a thousand years old and Catalans will continue to fight for the right to speak it, write in it and read it without being repressed, censored or castigated.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Notes</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">1 - At present--summer of 2012--the Mercat de Sant Antoni is undergoing renovation and the book market has been moved to an adjacent street under a huge tent.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">2 - Books published in Catalan per year 1939, 0 - 1940, 0 - 1941, 0 - 1942, 4 - 1946, 12 - 1947, 53 - 1948, 60 - 1949, 59 - 1950, 43 - 1951, 48 - 1954, 96 - 1963, 208 - 1964, 294 - 1965, 453 - 1966, 488 - 1967, 465; source, Què cal saber de Catalunya, Ferran Soldevila, CLUB EDITOR, 1968, Barcelona</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">3 - In fact, during the 20th century Spain suffered under two dictatorships. The first under General Primo de Rivera lasted from 1923 to 1930. Rivera also banned the public use of Catalan. Since the defeat of Catalonia in 1714 after the War of Spanish Succession the use of Catalan has been more often proscribed than not.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">4 - Spanish consitution of 1978 (translated into English),</span><a href="http://www.lamoncloa.gob.es/IDIOMAS/9/Espana/LeyFundamental/titulo_preliminar.htm"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: blue; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">http://www.lamoncloa.gob.es/IDIOMAS/9/Espana/LeyFundamental/titulo_preliminar.htm</span></a><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">5 - Ara, February 29, 2012, edition, "El ministre d'Afers Exteriors i de Cooperació veu "els nacionalismes com un càncer per a Europa" ",</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">6 - El Punt Avui, March 8, 2012 edition, "Per Jordi Pujol, l'Estat vol fer desaparèixer el català"</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Photograph Source; <a href="http://jornadesxllengua.blogspot.ca/">http://jornadesxllengua.blogspot.ca/</a> - A mural promoting unity for Catalan and the various regions where Catalan is spoken.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-46826309366430987522012-08-08T22:39:00.000+02:002012-09-24T23:03:35.627+02:00Hotel in Spain: the Johnstones of Tossa de Mar<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGTkF72hOLLMELJqpsfKPriRO-CxppvPKKk2uGKcKGy_9YiaQ-9TvJLgm0rZXIXgvIkPN7zvhyphenhyphenDeiCMXwMP7ET5vdf_WPi5mG_lV-7ieOWYmZWhDy8bkd0HkhMGebhqjtnx1t8TzCr6cc/s1600/Tossa4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGTkF72hOLLMELJqpsfKPriRO-CxppvPKKk2uGKcKGy_9YiaQ-9TvJLgm0rZXIXgvIkPN7zvhyphenhyphenDeiCMXwMP7ET5vdf_WPi5mG_lV-7ieOWYmZWhDy8bkd0HkhMGebhqjtnx1t8TzCr6cc/s320/Tossa4" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Just before dusk on a late-July day in 1936 the Royal Navy destroyer </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">HMS Hunter</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> appeared opposite the bay facing the little town of Tossa de Mar on the Costa Brava north-east of Barcelona. The Spanish Civil War was a few days old and as the destroyer edged her way inshore the crew was unsure of how it would be received. Two of the ship's boats carefully approached the beach where most of Tossa de Mar's population had gathered to watch. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">HMS Hunter's </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">mission was to take off British nationals and other foreigners who wanted to flee the war. The operation took some time and after dark the destroyer's powerful searchlight swept the beach and town as most of the foreign residents gathered up belongings and went aboard. Amongst the crowd on the beach one British couple watched the spectacle with a combination of amusement and contempt. As far they were concerned there was no reason to flee and they were not about to abandon the beleaguered Spanish Republic and Catalonia. Tossa de Mar was so isolated and inaccessible that, until then and for a long time later, the war had hardly touched the town and the couple was determined to stay.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Nancy and Archie Johnstone "had discovered Tossa de Mar by accident" in 1934 while looking for a place to vacation. Years later Nancy wrote that Archie had "by his usual method of picking a place to vacation in, had chosen the Costa Brava because he knew of no one who had ever been there." Tossa de Mar was then a town of 1,400, unspoilt by tourism and still mostly dependant on fishing and agriculture. But Tossa was unlike other other coastal towns. At the time of the First World War a number of foreign artists--from both sides of the conflict--who had exiled themselves in Barcelona were making the trek to Tossa de Mar for their vacations. They were attracted by the tranquility and the stark beauty of the rocky Costa Brava--the Wild or Savage Coast in Catalan--overlooking the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean. Through the 1920s and into early 1930s Tossa de Mar acquired a reputation in artistic circles, as far as London, Paris, and Berlin, as a quiet out-of-the-way village but that was still relatively accessible. A second wave of artists and writers arrived after 1933 consisting mostly of German Jews who had left their homeland after the Nazis gained power. The list of artists who passed through Tossa de Mar is reflected in the municipal museum’s modest collection of works by such artists as Marc Chagall, André Masson, Albert Gleizes, Jean Metzinger and Olga Sacharoff.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Soon after the Johnstone's discovered Tossa de Mar they took a leap of faith and decided to build a small hotel in the town. They would cater mostly to British tourists looking for an inexpensive holiday in a somewhat exotic locale. Perhaps the Johnstones were tired of living in London and like other Brits calculated that they could live comfortably in Spain on modest means. But Archie was a journalist with the London newspaper </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The News Chronicle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> and he was keen to escape the tumult of Fleet Street. He was also a veteran of the First World War and perhaps that contributed to his ennui with life in England. Nancy was more than willing to oblige her husband but she was also ready for an adventure. She seems to have been a whirlwind of energy dashing ahead with their plans as Archie was swept along in her wake. A timely but modest inheritance set them on their way.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The Johnstones engaged one of the refugees, a German architect, to design and supervise the construction of their hotel on a bit of land on a hill overlooking Platja Gran and across the bay from Tossa de Mar's old town, the only medieval walled town still standing on the Catalan coast. Nancy insisted that the hotel be built as high up as possible on the hill. The result was that the Casa Johnstone had magnificent views of the Mediterranean Sea and the old town but the guests would later complain of the slog up the steep slope. The Casa Johnstone opened its doors in 1935 and was soon a success. Nancy made an effort to feature Catalan cuisine in the restaurant. To fill the hotel the Johnstones worked their connections in London, especially amongst their Fleet Street friends, and soon a parade of Brits made its way to Tossa de Mar.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The civil war did not stop the Johnstones. They were committed to the cause of Republican Spain and were embarrassed and frustrated by Britain’s abandonment of a democratically elected government. They also understood Catalonia as few foreigners did, even attempting to learn the language. Bizarrely the Casa Johnstone continued to function during the war. The hotel was never empty and numbers of visitors including Fleet Street luminaries and the odd British secret service agent came through. A small staff helped run the hotel which allowed Nancy and Archie to dash off to Barcelona from time to time. Occasionally, Archie's journalistic instincts would get the better of him and he would go off to the front to report on the war for </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The News Chronicle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Toward the end of 1938, as the war grew more desperate for Catalonia, Nancy and Archie turned the Casa Johnstone into a children’s refuge, housing about fifty children escaping the war from all parts of Spain. Eventually the war reached even Tossa de Mar and Nancy and Archie had to flee with their charges to France. There the children were incarcerated in the refugee camps while the Johnstones, free on their British passports, arranged for their welfare. Happily all of the children were able to return to their respective families across Spain.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Nancy wrote two books about their time in Spain. The first </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hotel in Spain</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> (1937) dealt with their decision to quit London, the building of the hotel and the first months of the civil war. In the second, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hotel in Flight</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> (1939), Nancy wrote about their determination to keep their hotel going despite the war. Nancy's books have long been out of print and most historians of the civil war are unfamiliar with them. Finding copies of the two books is very difficult. Even the tourist office in Tossa de Mar was unaware of the books until Miquel Berga, a professor at Barcelona's Universitat Pompeu Fabra, translated them into Catalan. The translations published in a single volume entitled </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Un Hotel a la Costa </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">(2011) aroused much interest in the Catalan press.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Berga told me, "that Nancy’s books are valuable documents not only because of their depiction of everyday life in a small Catalan town--the Tossa de Mar of those days no longer exists--but also as a contrasting account of the war told by foreigners who came for reasons other than to fight." One of those foreigners, George Orwell, wrote a somewhat unkind review of Nancy’s second book calling it "chirpily facetious." Berga says, "that Nancy’s first book was written in a style and with a level of humour reminiscent of Mayle’s </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">A Year in Provence</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> but in the second book that tone changes to irony and then sarcasm." It's a change that reflects the seriousness of the evolving circumstances as the Nationalist armies advanced on Catalonia. In her second book Nancy writes about food shortages, the confusion regarding news of the war and the fear experienced by Tossa's residents. She writes about the experience of sitting in a cafe in Barcelona's Plaça de Urquinaona and suddenly running for cover as Nationalist aircraft drop bombs on the city. The book's final chapters deal with the desperate run to France, including more aerial attacks on helpless refugees.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The Johnstones felt so strongly about the British government's betrayal of the Spanish Republic that instead of returning to Britain after the civil war they went to Mexico where many Republican exiles had fled. They were able to make at least another trip to Tossa de Mar after the Second World War. Its unclear if they ever tried to recover their property. In any case the Johnstones eventually separated. Nancy stayed in Mexico and Central America and later married a French national. She wrote two other books including a novel. In 1950 Nancy was in a serious automobile accident in Guatemala and although she survived after that she disappears from the public record. After the world war Archie returned to England and then went to Moscow editing a publication of the British embassy. Later Archie joined the ranks of British defectors in Moscow becoming what a journalist at the time described as one of the "grey men", British ex-pats and defectors, who "chose freedom, Soviet-style, and tore up his British passport." He too later remarried, to a Russian. There is a hint that in his old age Archie missed those exciting days with Nancy in Spain. Shortly before he died in Moscow in 1978 Archie asked a visiting British journalist, who had recently been to Tossa de Mar, about the state of the trees that he and Nancy had planted on the grounds of the Casa Johnstone.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The Casa Johnstone still stands but now it is part of a large hotel complex and dwarfed by the buildings around it. Its rooms still have views of the sea and the old town but it now also overlooks the roofs of the hotels below. It seems lost in the confusion of hotels, apartments and private houses that now crowd the hill. To the relief of hotel guests escalators have alleviated the walk up that hill. But, if one visits the Casa Johnstone there is nothing to indicate that the building was the dream of a remarkable British couple, not even a plaque to recall the memory of Nancy and Archie.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
P.S. The July/August 2012 issue of the Catalan-language magazine<em> L'Avenç</em> published an article that provided some additional information on the visit that Nancy Johnstone made to Tossa de Mar in the first half of 1951. The article was co-written by Glòria Bosch and Susanna Portell, two researchers who have over several years been researching the activities of the foreign artists who visited Tossa de Mar in the years prior to the Spanish Civil War. Bosch and Portell found several relevant letters in the archives of Faber and Faber, Nancy Johnstone's publisher for her two books on Tossa de Mar. <br />
<br />
At the end of 1950 Nancy wrote a letter to her former editor at Faber and Faber asking if they would be interested in a third book on Tossa. Nancy was planning to return to Spain with her new husband and hoping to recover the hotel. The publisher wrote back saying they were interested. Nancy wrote another letter requesting that Faber and Faber draft a note saying that she had been hired to write another book on Tossa. Nancy had hoped to use the note to smooth things out with the Spanish Ministry of Tourism. However, due to some mix up at Faber and Faber she never got the note.<br />
<br />
In any case, Nancy did go to Tossa to recover the hotel by then called the Casa Blanca. Much to her disappointment Tossa de Mar in 1951 was not the place that she and Archie had fallen in love with before the war. Catalonia under the Franco dictatorship had changed for the worse. Her new husband Fernand Caron was not prepared to put up with conditions then current in Spain. The hotel was sold and the Carons sailed for Brazil. In August of 1951 Nancy wrote a final letter to Faber and Faber with a forwarding address of a friend in Bath, England, a Miss Thomas-Porter at No. 13 Park Street. By then Nancy had disappeared from the public record. <br />
<br />
The people responsible for the Catalan-langauge film <em>Pa Negra</em> are working on a feature film based on Nancy's two books. The film would be filmed in English.Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-87869291198341343212012-05-07T17:50:00.000+02:002013-05-06T11:26:03.088+02:00Night Passage Across the Great Bahama Bank<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht7YO22ozmSscZi1tNBETV72jTe-wZe1Z1FLCCG5hkFmU8Rp92HGpcFLDMS5BWwQ2PlWY1kHh6K5zeIKT9vrIxefSI3Gbqmiv6Y1KlGt8G3lzL-eQJKbWwryN8HVkUPRNTA0pIgMS8zdg/s1600/Binimi-anchorage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht7YO22ozmSscZi1tNBETV72jTe-wZe1Z1FLCCG5hkFmU8Rp92HGpcFLDMS5BWwQ2PlWY1kHh6K5zeIKT9vrIxefSI3Gbqmiv6Y1KlGt8G3lzL-eQJKbWwryN8HVkUPRNTA0pIgMS8zdg/s400/Binimi-anchorage.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span id="internal-source-marker_0.08753230355998676" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">We had been at anchor for several days in the shallow channel north of Chub Cay hiding from the high winds and steep seas. When at last the weather settled down we were keen to continue our return to Florida aboard our sloop </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. This next leg would have us crossing the Great Bahama Bank between the northern end of the Tongue of the Ocean and the Straits of Florida a distance of about 70 miles. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">However, our departure from Chub Cay was not very dignified.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">There was a two-knot tidal current sweeping through the channel as I hauled up the anchor. Chris was on the tiller and we had to spin the boat around in the current to make our way out. I should have been looking for the deep water and guiding Chris in her course instead I was on my knees, head down, fussing with and trying to secure the anchor. As </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">turned broadside to the current she was swept on to the shallows and went aground. With a harness on Chris dipped into the water for a look at the keel. Fortunately, the bottom was soft sand and there was no damage. Then, using the dinghy we ran out a kedge anchor but even with the two of us hauling on the rode </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">would not budge against the push of the current. Trying another tack, we filled the dinghy with water to her weigh down, swung the boom to one side tying the dinghy painter to the boom’s outboard end but we could not heel the boat over far enough to get the keel off the bottom. We were going nowhere, we would have to wait for the tide to turn and a whole day would be lost, at least that's how it seemed. Little did we know but there had been an audience watching our performance, and it was the audience that saved the day.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Other boats had waited out the weather behind Chub Cay, some Florida-bound cruisers like us but also several Bahamian lobster and conch boats. Two of the Bahamian crews saw our predicament and came to our aid. The first crew sent over four huge men who, when they climbed aboard </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, towered over me. The fishermen crowded me out of the bow and I had to step back as they hauled on the kedge. But even all that muscle could not pull us off. They left defeated but were soon followed by the second crew who took a different approach to the problem. They ran one of the halyards from the top of the mast with a tied-on extension to the stern of their power boat. Using the power boat to pull on the halyard streaming from the masthead they heeled </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">to an alarming angle. Then the two fellows who had come on board and I hauled on the kedge as the power boat gunned its engine. It was a bit disconcerting to heel the boat in such a manner. I prayed that the mast could take the strain but it was only a moment before </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">slid into deep water. Chris and I were relieved to be on our way, and to still have the mast standing. I was embarrassed that we had nothing to thank the fishermen with, not even a beer.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">At the start of all the fuss the girls, then eight- and five-years old, had been sleeping in the v-berth but had been rudely awakened when we went aground. They spent the whole time below as the commotion on deck evolved. The girls’ blind faith in their parents' abilities was tested when the boat heeled during the performance of the second Bahamian crew.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">After Chris and I tidied up the ropes and bailed out the dinghy we motored out to the deep water of the Tongue of the Ocean and turned west toward Northwest Channel Light. There was a run of a few miles in the deep water parallel to the edge of the Great Bahama Bank. Under sail and with the wind blowing at 15 to 20 knots straight out of the east we went flying along at more than 5 knots, which for 27-foot long </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle,</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> was good going. It was a fair bit of wind and I wondered if we should have stayed at Chub Cay longer,but the forecast called for some moderation in the winds as the day progressed. Our plan was to head west to Northwest Channel Light, located just on the edge of the bank. From there we would steer for Russel Light half-way across the bank, and then head for the passage between Gun Cay and North Cat Cay on the western extremity of the bank. From there it is a short way north to Bimini Island, our destination. Weather permitting we hoped to anchor on the bank overnight. It may seem odd to anchor out in the open on the huge expanse of the bank and with no land in site but it is commonly done in settled weather. Several months earlier on the way into the Bahamas we had anchored overnight on the bank and in the morning found the surface as still as a pond. That day as we had motored on the girls sat on the bow gazing into the clear water looking for fish swimming over the bottom, it was like peering into an aquarium. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">This time conditions were very different. The wind did not moderate, sometimes gusting to over 20 knots--so much for weather forecasts. We sailed all through the afternoon and into the evening. By the time we were abeam of Russel Light, a couple of miles to the north of it, darkness had settled in and we could just make out the light. Since we could not stop we had to change our plan. We were not familiar with the narrow passage between Gun Cay and North Cat Cay, and we did not want to go through it in the dark. However, there was the alternative route around North Rock to the north of Bimini, and we were familiar with that. It was also more prudent to take the North Rock route because the water on it was somewhat deeper compared with the Gun Cay route. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">draws less than four feet and the chances of hitting a coral head even in the dark were minimal on either route. Entering Bimini harbour in the dark was out of the question but we knew that we could approach the leeward side of the island and anchor off until daylight.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">All that night </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> flew with just the small jib up, surging and breasting the waves with aplomb. The wind over the shallow banks, of course, built up waves of a meter or metre and a half. There was some rolling going downwind but it was never uncomfortable. The biggest worry was the dinghy, she was literally surfing and several times caught up to </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">and smacked the transom. Chris eventually lengthened the painter so that the dinghy trailed forty or fifty feet behind </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Even then I watched several times as the dinghy came racing up to abeam of the cockpit before falling back, fortunately never again hitting. The girls took some gravol after dinner. The younger one fell asleep in Chris's arms in the cockpit, awoke when transferred to her berth but quickly fell asleep again. The older one stayed up in the cockpit until sunset then went below to Chris’ berth to read for awhile before also falling asleep.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">On our crossing of the bank we had the reassuring company of a friendly three-quarter moon. It would disappear from time to time behind the scattered clouds. When the moon did disappear one would look up at the obscuring cloud and try to estimate how long it would be before its light shone on the sea again. All the while </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> behaved splendidly; surging, surfing, lunging and rolling over the waves. Even with just the jib up she was easy to steer, well-balanced and always under control. Without the main up there was no worry of an accidental gybe. At times looking astern it was mesmerizing to watch the waves rushing towards us, the wave crests glistening in the moonlight and the dinghy gamely racing along.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Several miles out from Bimini Island we picked out some of its lights including those on the communications tower that stands over Alicetown and to the north of those a group of even brighter lights. At first, the latter lights confused us but they turned out to be the floodlights of a construction site at the north end of the Bimini lagoon. However, the light that we really wanted to see was that of North Rock. Lying about a mile north of Bimini the rock is a low-lying slab, a few feet above the waves, about the size of a basketball court. Navigation lights in the Bahamas are notorious for being unreliable and that night the North Rock light failed us. The problem with not finding North Rock is that the Mossell Bank lies further north of it and it is essential to thread through the narrow gap between the two obstructions. Of course we had the GPS unit working but it would have been reassuring to have had the light as a guide. As Chris steered and peered into the darkness hoping to catch sight of the damn rock, I was down below checking the GPS against the paper chart and plotting a semi-circle course around the rock. Every few minutes or so I called up the course changes to her. Even with the moonlight we never saw the rock nor the pylon that supports the light.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Once round the phantom rock we turned south and for a few minutes took the waves on the beam. Gradually the seas flattened out as we came in the lee of Bimini. We sailed past Paradise Point, a shallow cape with some off-lying islets and rocks, until the swell had moderated before taking the jib down and motoring in toward shore. With the aid of the lead line we felt our way in toward the beach until we sounded about 20 feet and dropped the anchor. In the last of the moonlight the beach sand was just visible and once the engine was off we could hear the gentle surf. With magical timing the moon set a few minutes after we had anchored. It had been a comforting companion to cross the banks with. As we sat at anchor some swell reached us round the top end of Bimini and though we rolled a bit it was not uncomfortable. In the morning we could see in the distance North Rock and its useless light. After some breakfast we motored down to the range marking the entrance to Bimini Harbour, entered the harbour and anchored just to the north of the Big Game Club. It had been a fine sail, except for the nonsense when leaving Chub Cay and we soon forgot about that.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">Photograph; Hirondelle in Bimini harbour by Harman Stinson</span>Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-44691728470115331532012-02-18T15:31:00.000+01:002012-02-18T15:31:46.417+01:00Flying the Empress of Honolulu - a Catalan family in 1960s Canada<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGzQcN67cOHOCDF_m0gaJUrsas2lTv9BBB8YtWWe0PDyoPES0duWOpFP_yIudIMN2_flTPvWKwmwPijuSy2Y26aW_59hsqe8SKbC4HA246U-l2u0XP42fsRBPVR3rCfytoC7bp5lDMCxY/s1600/DouglasDC6B-CPA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGzQcN67cOHOCDF_m0gaJUrsas2lTv9BBB8YtWWe0PDyoPES0duWOpFP_yIudIMN2_flTPvWKwmwPijuSy2Y26aW_59hsqe8SKbC4HA246U-l2u0XP42fsRBPVR3rCfytoC7bp5lDMCxY/s1600/DouglasDC6B-CPA.jpg" /></a></div><span id="internal-source-marker_0.8912749900734271" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">In late October 1960 the <em>Empress of Honolulu</em> flew my family and I across the Atlantic. I was not quite four-years old and it was my first time flying. The <em>Empress of Honolulu</em> was a DC-6B piston-engine airliner of Canadian Pacific Airlines and it was from her cabin that I had my first glimpse of Canada. That was during a stopover in Gander, Newfoundland, to refuel because the <em>Empress </em>lacked the range of the newer jetliners. It was grey and snowing as I looked out through the cabin port and I could see men in parkas working around the aircraft. It looked so very bleak, cold and so foreign. Too young at the time to fully appreciate the purpose of our trip, I did wonder what we were doing in Gander. Now, so many years later, I try to imagine my parent’s thoughts and feelings at that moment. They must have been very anxious as they looked out into what seemed like an abyss. The day before in Barcelona a group of family and friends had seen us off before taking the train for Madrid, and there to board the <em>Empress</em>. Having made the decision to emigrate and leave Spain my parents knew they were unlikely to ever again see those people. That first glimpse of Canada already in the grip of winter could not have put them at ease. It must have been stressful and emotional. For my mother even more so as she was pregnant with her third child. It had been a difficult decision but my parents felt that Spain with its limited prospects had no future for them or their children.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">My parents had been raised and schooled in Catalonia in the years before and during the Spanish Civil War. They had suffered in the war but no more or no less than most. My father, who was from Igualada, had been too young to serve in the Republican army during the war but did work with his father, a mechanic for the army. After the Fascist victory my father was conscripted into the Infanteria de Marina and was then sent to Mallorca. He was present in September 1943 when part of the Italian fleet escaping the Germans sailed into Palma. After his military service he worked at various jobs while studying to be an architectural draftsman. My mother's family had an </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">estanc</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, or tobacconist’s, on Carrer de Urgell in Manresa. During the war the searches of the family home looking for hidden relatives or religious imagery caused her much anguish. She barely survived an aerial bombardment when a wall nearly fell on her. After the war my mother helped to look after her own ailing mother while working in the </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">estanc</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. My parents met in the early-1950s and after their wedding in 1956 they settled in Manresa. Neither was happy with their lot and at some point they decided to emigrate. At first they hoped to go to Australia but could not afford the expense. Coincidentally, at about that time Canada agreed to accept a small number of Spanish emigrants. My parents applied and were accepted but it must have been an act of desperation as they knew little about Canada.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">If they even thought about it, Canada was a land of misconceptions in the minds of most Europeans, my parents included. My father once told me that his image of Canada before emigrating was based on the 1936 Hollywood musical <em>Rose Marie</em>. In that film Canada was depicted as a country of a few towns surrounded by immense forests and populated by singing bar girls, lumberjacks, Indians and scarlet-jacketed Mounties. The reality was somewhat different. In the years after the second world war Canada's economy was booming. The war saved Canada from the ravages of the Great Depression. Despite having a population of only 11 million in 1939 about one million men and women served in its armed forces. Canadians were proud of their role in the world war. Canada had profited by the establishment of new industries that had supported the war effort. After the peace returning veterans could look forward to civilian life with plenty of jobs to go around. So many jobs in fact that Canada needed immigrants to work in the oil fields of Alberta, build roads and dams in British Columbia and Quebec, manufacture cars in Ontario and harvest wheat in Saskatchewan. For war-weary Europeans, Canada seemed like the promised land with its peace, security and the prospect of employment. In the 20 years after the end of the war almost three million immigrants were accepted by Canada. It was a time of optimism and confidence in a future that seemed very bright. The contrast with the Spain of the 1950s could hardly have been greater. Twenty years after the Civil War, the mood in Spain was sombre with shortages of goods and food, and high unemployment. The economic situation was so dire that the Spanish government encouraged emigration. Spain remained under the control of one of the last fascist dictatorships that had blighted Europe and had become a pariah amongst western nations. Life for minority groups within Spain was even tougher. The languages and cultures of the Catalans and Basques were aggressively repressed by the Franco dictatorship.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Soon after we arrived in Montreal my father found work as a draftsman in an architectural office. A few days before the Christmas holidays the company’s owner and secretary absconded with the payroll. The holidays looked to be very bleak. However, on Christmas Eve we had a visit from a pair of representatives from a charity organization. Someone had alerted the charity that a family of recent immigrants had just lost their only means of support. Groceries, some toys and twenty dollars in cash were left. My parents were taken aback by the gifts. On New Years Day a police car rushed my mother to hospital where her second daughter was born. After the holidays my father used the cash from the charity to pay for bus fare and look for another job. He soon found one. A previous employee of the firm, another Spanish immigrant, had made such a positive impression that my father was hired partly because he too was from Spain. That anonymous Spaniard became part of family lore. So after a hectic start to life in Canada and the experience of a Montreal winter the new year turned out to be more settled and positive.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">In 1960, Montreal was still Canada's largest city and retained its status as the country's economic and cultural centre. A Catalan could not avoid comparing the cities of Montreal and Barcelona as the two are in some ways similar. Both are bilingual cities surrounded by hinterlands that are almost uni-lingual. Throughout the post-war period both cities attracted immigrants, Montreal from all over Europe, Barcelona from southern Spain. However, there were significant differences between the two cities. Barcelona was under siege by a dictatorship that asphyxiated Catalans and their language. Simply speaking Catalan in public could get you in trouble with the authorities. The Spanish government encouraged Andalusian emigration to Barcelona partly for valid economic reasons but also in a perverse attempt to drown Catalan culture. In Montreal, French and English were spoken everywhere and the casual visitor would have thought that the two were on equal footings, but in fact there were tensions between the “two solitudes.” Montreal was still the centre of corporate Canada but that was an almost wholly Anglo bastion. Even in the small towns throughout Quebec, where the population was almost entirely Francophone, if there were major industries the "bosses" were usually English-Canadians or Americans. The lack of economic and political power was a source of resentment among Quebecers. Just after the second world war French-Canadian society began to react against the dominance of English-Canadian society and the stifling influence of the Catholic Church. This development, which eventually became known as “la Révolution Tranquille,” slowly gained momentum but it moved inexorably and reached a head during the 1960s. The objective of this “revolution” was exemplified by the slogan "maitres chez nous."</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">My parents considered it important that our family adapt to Canadian life, as far as they were concerned they were there to stay. It helped that my mother had some school French but both my parents eventually learned Montreal’s two languages. Certainly, knowing Catalan helped with the French--the two languages have many similarities. Although my parents made a commitment to their new country but that did not mean discarding their Catalan identity. At home because my parents spoke Catalan my sisters and I learned to speak it. Castilian was never spoken. Unfortunately, even though my sisters and I could speak Catalan we could not read it. Our identity as Catalans was almost totally dependant on the spoken language and we had little opportunity to speak it outside of home. We knew a small number Catalan families in Montreal but we saw them only occasionally. My parents loved books and we had hundreds at home in four languages but only a couple of dozen or so were in Catalan, among them a set of <em>Mervalles de Catalunya</em>. A trans-Atlantic telephone call to family in Catalonia was a rare and expensive event. There were letters from family and friends but I could not read them. Those letters could just as well have been from strangers so little did I know of the people writing them. For my sisters and me our knowledge of Catalan culture and history was dependant on what our parents told us. We grew up hearing about Catalonia's struggle to maintain its identity, stories of the civil war and my parents’ interpretation of those events. From them we learned snippets of family lore--one of my grandfathers had been an anarchist, another a <em>guardia civil</em> and a third had been a founding member of the Igualada Football Club. On my mother's side there were relatives who were farmers and others industrialists.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Our connections with Catalonia were tenuous and it was mainly through my aunt, my mother's sister, that kept us informed of events “back home." In addition to my aunt’s letters, she would occasionally mail us packages of Spanish newspapers and magazines. The Canadian media rarely carried Spanish news. Sometime in 1963 we were surprised when, in addition to the newspapers and magazines, my aunt sent several records. Those records were quite a novelty because they were in Catalan--the Spanish government's restrictions on Catalan had extended even to recordings. The recordings were a varied lot, children’s stories, non-political comedy, and several music records. The image on the cover of one of the music records made a lasting impression on me--a young man leaning against a brick wall and holding a guitar with a little boy in the background looking up at him. Of course the record was Raimon's EP featuring his iconic <em>Al Vent</em>. Raimon’s Dylan-esque message of freedom was unlikely to be understood by a seven-year old boy living in Canada but my parents understood--perhaps Raimon was inspired by Dylan’s <em>Blowing in the Wind</em>. Growing up in Canada I was under the influence of Anglo-American culture. I can vividly remember the Beatles' appearance on the <em>Ed Sullivan Show</em> and the broadcast direct from New York City in February 1964. It was a Sunday night and the three or four Catalan families that had gathered together for supper watched the show on a black and white TV.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">When we arrived in Canada I was too young to start school but I began to learn French because our neighbourhood was mostly French-speaking. When I was old enough for school my parents had three choices. They could send me to a Catholic French school, a Protestant English school or a Catholic English school--all publicly supported schools. For a couple of reasons they chose the Catholic school where they spoke English. First, we were nominally a Catholic family and for my mother religion was important. My father could compromise on this issue, in Canada he would even attend Christmas and Easter masses, but he had strong anticlerical tendencies that had been keenly developed in Spain. The choice of English was a little more calculating. There was little doubt that most of the political and economic power was in anglophone hands and it made sense to tie your future with that group. Most immigrants made the same choice. And so, as I started school I had to learn another language.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">In 1964 my parents bought a house in a new subdivision in Pierrefonds in West Island Montreal. For a young boy it was a great place to grow up in. At that time the subdivision was surrounded by woodlots and farms with the fields marked out by ancient field-stone walls. Just down the street there was a big farm field which in the spring the farmer ploughed with a horse. The poor horse worked two weeks every year and then spent the rest of the year as picturesque field ornament sometimes pestered by my friends and I. The farmer grew cash crops and my mother would buy vegetables from his roadside stand. In the winter another part of the farmer’s property had a pond that would freeze over. Montreal winters were cold and there was always lots of snow. The neighbourhood kids would clear the snow from the pond so that we could skate and play ice hockey. Of course, we followed the fortunes of "<em>les Canadiens</em>," Quebec’s hockey team--in the same way that FC Barcelona is Catalonia’s football team--and in those days the Habs seemed to always win. In the woodlots--they are all gone now--climbing trees and playing in the woods was standard deportment for my friends and I. In the winter with all of the snow we built elaborate snow forts. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">One day in 1965, the whole family, dressed in our Sunday best, drove our second-hand 1959 Pontiac downtown to a government building. Before a judge my parents repeated a pledge and we were each given a document affirming that we were citizens of Canada. We were no longer “Spanish.” For my parents their break with their country of birth was legally complete. It would have been an emotional moment for them because, by then, they felt really at home in Canada. As an immigrant family we were part of a third reality of Canadian society that would eventually lead to the concept of multi-culturalism. Even though we were outsiders we had been welcomed and accepted. My parents were grateful for that. By then we were a typical middle-class family, we just happened to speak Catalan at home. In Pierrefonds our next door neighbours on one side were Filipinos, who also spoke Spanish, on the other side was an Anglo-Canadian couple. Other neighbours included French-Canadians, English, Germans, Italians and blacks from the Caribbean. There were Catholics, Protestants and Jews.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">In 1967 Canada celebrated its centennial since confederation. There was a mood of optimism and celebration throughout the country. At first the tensions between English-Canada and French-Canada seemed to be forgotten during that happy year. Every town had its "centennial project" whether it was building a new public arena, a new park or organizing some special event. The largest event was in Montreal where all summer the city hosted Expo '67 a spectacular world's fair. (I was disappointed that Spain did not have pavilion.) Canadians, and many foreigners, made the trip to Montreal to visit Expo. I went to the fair several times either on school outings or with my family. It was very exciting for a ten-year. However, when the centennial celebrations came to an end there was a sense that something was amiss. It was a mood that, even if I could not understand it being so young, that I later learned extended into the politics of the country as a whole. During the summer the visiting French president de Gaulle acerbated the political situation when he blurted out “vive le Quebec libre.” De Gaulle managed to at once inflame separatists and offend Canadians who recalled all their war dead buried in France. The tension in Canada grew and in Quebec the Quiet Revolution became louder and louder.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The following year was, in my opinion, pivotal in the eventual resolution of the tension between the “two solitudes.” That year Pierre Trudeau, an intense French-Canadian intellectual, was elected Prime Minister of Canada. A passionate federalist and perfectly bilingual, Trudeau believed that Quebec’s interests were best served as part of a truly bilingual Canada. Trudeau went to Ottawa as head of a group of like-minded Quebec politicians, some of whom could not speak English. The problem was that while the federalists envisioned a Canada that was truly bi-lingual from sea to sea, in reality the country was far from it. Pitted against Trudeau’s so-called “wise men” was a strongly nationalistic Quebec provincial government. One of the provincial ministers, a fiery ex-journalist René Lévesque, quit to form his own party, the separatist Parti Québécois. This set the Canadian political stage for the next decade. In a way it was a race between the two groups. The federalists racing to legislate and promote real bilingualism while the PQ attempted to convince “le Québécois” of the benefits of independence. As Catalans we could empathise with the aspirations of the French-Canadian minority but we also admired the democratic nature of Canada. To those who had experienced Europe’s wars and upheavals, like my parents, the other Catalans in Canada and the other European immigrants, the hint of political violence was unsettling.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Starting in 1963 there were a number of violent incidents that underlined the social and cultural conflicts brewing in Montreal, and in Quebec. Most of the incidents were relatively minor. A shadowy left-wing group called<em> le Front de libération du Québec</em> had placed small bombs in mailboxes and office buildings. Other incidents were more serious, for example, the rioting that normally accompanied the St Jean Baptist Day celebrations in Montreal. One of the most violent incidents was the October 1969 burning of a bus garage and the subsequent rioting that resulted in two deaths and millions of dollars worth of damage. The garage was located in downtown Montreal near my father's office. When he got home that night he seemed upset and disturbed by what he had seen. My parents discussed what was going on. And, I think, that they compared that and other events with what they had seen, albeit on a greater scale, thirty years earlier in Spain. They talked about moving from Montreal. A few weeks later my father made some trips to Ottawa and Toronto looking for another job. In early December we boarded the train to Toronto. We moved from “French-Canada” to “English-Canada” and in a sense we had once again emigrated.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The differences between Montreal and Toronto were dramatic on several levels linguistically, culturally, politically and even climatically. On Toronto streets you were more likely to hear Italian, Polish or any of a dozen other languages before you heard French. Toronto winters were insipid compared to Montreal’s. It was a great disappointment for me to leave Pierrefonds, it had been a wonderful place to grow up. For me the move to Toronto was almost traumatic. We went from living in a Pierrefonds that was still very rural in aspect to living in Parkdale, a tough downtown Toronto neighbourhood. By the time we left for Toronto several other Catalan families that we knew had proceeded us. Toronto was also full of anglophones who had recently quit Montreal.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The climax of the FLQ's bid for violent revolution and Quebec independence came in October 1970. A Quebec government minister and a British diplomat were kidnapped by separate FLQ cells. After a few days the minister was killed. It was an intense shock to a country where the only previous political assassination had occurred in 1868. Fortunately, the Englishman was released unharmed and his captors allowed to leave for Cuba. The extent of the FLQ’s operations were unknown and so the federal government, under Trudeau’s direction, took a controversial hard line and suspended civil liberties. Although there was concern about the government's imposition of war-time laws most Canadians, including many Quebecers, supported Trudeau. However, Quebecers were shocked by both the violence of the FLQ and by the Canadian government's response. Canadians were not accustomed to see soldiers with machine guns patrolling their streets--that was something that only happened in other countries. The “October Crisis” precipitated unforeseen reactions. On the one hand Quebecers, both federalists and separatists, firmly rejected violence as a means to an end. On the other hand Quebec separatists were more determined than ever to use the ballot box to meet their goals.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">From Toronto we watched these developments with trepidation, anxiety and, after some time, relief. A few years later, in 1980, a separatist Quebec government under Lévesque put the question of separatism to a referendum and it was rejected. During the decade that started in about 1965 the uncertainty of the the political situation in Quebec, along with the assertion by Quebecers of their economic and cultural rights caused many anglophone Canadians to feel uncomfortable in the province and many of them left. Among those anglophones who left Montreal for Toronto was my wife’s family. Many of the big corporations moved their headquarters from Montreal to Toronto. As a result Toronto became the principal city in Canada especially in economic matters. It is a position it retains to this day but is now being challenged by cities in western Canada. In hindsight perhaps my parents, and all those others, overreacted to the events in Quebec. Perhaps more anglophones should have learned a of bit of French. At the time the unrest seemed very familiar to people who had experienced other civil conflicts.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">My parents made a good choice in Canada. As country it has its problems and its own weaknesses but it inherited a strong parliamentary system and a tradition of respect for the rule of law. Its founding was based on compromise between mostly Protestant English-speakers and mostly Catholic French-speakers. In times of trouble the tradition of compromise has served Canada and its people well. That tradition helped when Canadians chose to embrace both multi-culturalism and bilingualism. It is a route that implies understanding and respect for those who are of a different race, religion, culture or speak a different language. The choice was made using open debate, the ballot box and in two official languages.</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">I often think of that day in October 1960 while the <em>Empress of Honolulu</em> waited patiently as the ground crew looked after her in Gander. I remember the gloom as I looked out through the port at the windswept snow and the gray sky in the half-light. In the end it turned out alright and the Empress was looking after a small boy and his family. Not long after we arrived in Canada my father--my parents both prided themselves as an amateur artists--painted a portrait of the <em>Empress of Honolulu</em>. Using a postcard as a model for his watercolour, the portrait depicted the <em>Empress</em> in flight with the sun glinting off her fuselage and engine nacelles. For many years the painting was stored in my father’s portfolio and it was a long time before I had it framed. Of my parents' paintings it is my favourite because of the memories it invokes. Other immigrants recall the ships they sailed on when they travelled from the old world to the new world, but I remember flying the <em>Empress of Honolulu</em>.</span><br />
<br />
<em><span style="font-size: x-small;">(This post is a reworking of an article I wrote for the Catalan-language magazine L'Avenç. That article was somewhat shorter and, of course, was directed to Catalan speakers.)</span></em><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi82VgYzXukzJsVritiPf_5WPBoZ5Aoc_9sfIwjE3obxlkODlEGViPZjXC_A53QLgHZSlItJe9t5ZqnkyhTAy-ODMzyv276X4J9GOXvtgkyT7bgyeMJW4aSwhhAWmZYMJeIl2AQnFV6w9w/s1600/dc6_n55ca.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="403" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi82VgYzXukzJsVritiPf_5WPBoZ5Aoc_9sfIwjE3obxlkODlEGViPZjXC_A53QLgHZSlItJe9t5ZqnkyhTAy-ODMzyv276X4J9GOXvtgkyT7bgyeMJW4aSwhhAWmZYMJeIl2AQnFV6w9w/s640/dc6_n55ca.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="justify">The <em>Empress of Honolulu</em> was a Douglas DC-6B (c/n 45328) and bore the registration CF-CZU with fleet number 443. The aircraft entered service with Canadian Pacific Airlines in July 1957 and remained property of that airline until September 1970. In 1969, while still owned by CPA, the aircraft was leased through Concare Aircraft Leasing Corp. to Pacific Western Airlines under the registration N55CA. The aircraft was converted to DC-6BF configuration prior to being sold to F.A. Connor in 1970. Under American registry she retained the N55CA. Presumably, like other DC-6s, she was used to fly cargo in Florida, the Bahamas and the Caribbean area. The photograph above was taken by Mr. Ruud Leeuw in February 1999 while N55CA, the former<em> Empress of Honolulu,</em> was in the process of being scrapped at Opa Locka airport near Miami, Florida. It was not a very dignified end for a fine aircraft--when the photograph was taken most of the fuselage had been removed, the engines had been dismounted, the wings torn off and the nose was propped up with a forklift. The photograph is used with Mr. Leeuw's permission. The photograph at the head of the article is an old Canadian Pacific Airlines publicity image and it not of CF-CZU but of one of her sister ships. My father's painting of the <em>Empress of Honolulu</em> is in storage in Canada and I do not have access to it at this time.</div></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-25248776589205094372012-01-30T12:59:00.000+01:002012-01-30T12:59:27.206+01:00Family Island Regatta - Una regata de balandres tradicionals a les Bahames<span style="font-size: x-small;">(Note; The following text is in Catalan, translated from a piece I originally wrote in English and which can also be found in this blog. Very little is available on the Bahamas that is written in Catalan and I hope it is of interest to <em>Catala-parlants.</em>)</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq7MHpxc4cUpNPnZLLSgmE1QUbQE8Rb-SgA77TkaWc1_AF7JO_DdkZgTjTYfTPUExBghf453luVmmDkA0Y4utTROGH5KE-DD_PpRBw_U31NHl9y9MgS3Tv7SDkxsOAgyZB-HCxUi10hCo/s1600/heading_out_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq7MHpxc4cUpNPnZLLSgmE1QUbQE8Rb-SgA77TkaWc1_AF7JO_DdkZgTjTYfTPUExBghf453luVmmDkA0Y4utTROGH5KE-DD_PpRBw_U31NHl9y9MgS3Tv7SDkxsOAgyZB-HCxUi10hCo/s400/heading_out_3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span id="internal-source-marker_0.7740147650812383" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vam passar l'hivern de 2004-05 navegant entre les illes de les Bahames a bord del nostre veler </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. La tercera setmana d'abril estàvem ancorats en una llacuna a l'extrem nord de l’Illa Long. Havíem d'estar a Florida a finals de maig i, si volíem fer el viatge de tornada sense presses, ja era hora d'anar. La ruta més fàcil era tornar sobre els nostres passos a través de les illes de Exuma incloent una parada a George Town. Hi havia dues raons per a tornar a George Town a l'Illa de Gran Exuma. Podríem reomplir les provisions, però, més important encara, podríem assistir a la </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">52 ª Family Island Regatta</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, una regata d'embarcacions tradicionals. La regata és l'esdeveniment esportiu i social més important de les Bahames. Diversos amics ens havien dit que a vegades els visitants se'ls permetria tripular en las balandres de cursa durant la regata.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Era un divendres, quan vam arribar de tornada a George Town i de seguida ens vam adonar que el nombre de vaixells de creuer estrangers era molt menor en comparació amb la nostra anterior visita. No obstant això més d'un centenar de vaixells estaven ancorats al llarg de Elizabeth Harbour, al gran port natural de George Town. A principis de l'any hi havia hagut més de quatre-cents vaixells de creuer, la majoria nord-americans i canadencs. Seria molt difícil omplir Elizabeth Harbour, ja que es una milla d'ample i gairebé cinc milles de llarg. A l'abril, però, la majoria dels creuers estrangers s'havien anat al Carib o tornaven als Estats Units. A George Town hi havia la calma abans de la tempesta i els estrangers que s'havien quedat sabien que una gran festa estava a punt d'esclatar. A la mateixa tarda vam veure un </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">mailboat</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> - com els vaixells de càrrega i de passatge que naveguen entre les illes es diuen - arribar des de Nassau. La seva coberta de càrrega estava ple de balandres de regata.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vam passar el cap de setmana a descans i en la càrrega dels subministraments comestibles. Durant las nits ancorem a l'altre banda del Elizabeth Harbour, a costat de l’Illa Stocking. Mentrestant, George Town s'omplia de visitants, la majoria bahameses d'altres illes de l'arxipèlag. En el passeig marítim davant del port i al llarg de la carretera al costat del moll del govern es va construir una mena de barri de barraques que consistia de bars i llocs de menjar improvisats. Els carrers estaven plens de gent passejant, alguns amb cerveses o altres begudes a la mà. Música ressonava des de diversos sistemes de so d'alta potència. Moltes persones estaven renovant velles amistats i altres estaven fent-ne de noves. La festa al carrer era més com el carnaval de Rio que de la Copa del Rei a Palma. Més </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">mailboats</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> carregades amb més balandres i visitants van arribar durant tot el cap de setmana. Diverses balandres de les comunitats properes al Exumas i l'Illa Long van arribar remolcats per vaixells de motor.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">El dilluns al matí vam ancorar prop de la Cala Kidd, l'ancoratge a la part davantera de George Town. La major part dels balandres de regata estaven ancorats en la pròpia cala. Des de la cabina de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> vam veure l'activitat de las tripulacions prepararen las balandres per la regata. Una de las balandres de la Classe C, las més petits de la regata, estava al costat de una balandra més gran de la Classe B. El màstil de l'embarcació petita es va aixecar amb l'ajuda del màstil de la balandre gran. Quan el pal s'havia col.locat la tripulació va tractar d'atreure l'atenció dels vaixells de motor que passaven. La tripulació volia un remolc, però els navegants que passaven pensaven que la tripulació estava sent amable. La Chris em va suggerir d'anar amb el nostre bot de rem i oferir la meva ajuda a la tripulació. No estava segur si podia remolcar un bot de regata tan pesat i vaig dubtar abans de anar ajudar-los. Un tripulant em va llançar una línia tot i que es va sorprendre que no tenia motor en el meu bot. Va ser una tirada fàcil. Quan ens acostàvem a la vora la tripulació va llançar un àncora de popa i vaig porta una altra cable de la proa a terra. Cap problema. Abans de tornar els vaig preguntar si necessitaven mes tripulació per a les carreres. Es van negar la meva ajuda, però em van suggerir de preguntar per altres balandres. La regata havia de començar l'endemà amb la Classe Escolar. Teníem la intenció de tornar l'endemà.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1RctXjCo-YRQARbjRdHYMjcqZ3k6U8YVZt20b3icK1vIlhtzy34EigXmHJj7lfMue1IDFtBs4GUcXx6K6CT3oy7PSULg64se6meY7_Jc2ytLXZ3rTHloHkIvGuzhK-LjbSu3BRoQLK8c/s1600/bahamian_sloop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1RctXjCo-YRQARbjRdHYMjcqZ3k6U8YVZt20b3icK1vIlhtzy34EigXmHJj7lfMue1IDFtBs4GUcXx6K6CT3oy7PSULg64se6meY7_Jc2ytLXZ3rTHloHkIvGuzhK-LjbSu3BRoQLK8c/s400/bahamian_sloop.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Dia Un - Una oportunitat perduda</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Per allunyar-se del soroll de George Town, ara en la manera de festa complet, vam passar la nit ancorat a costat de L'Illa Stocking, però el dimarts al matí vam tornar a Cala Kidd. Aquell matí, la Chris gairebé va tenir l'oportunitat de participar en la regata. Les regles permeten bots en la Classe Escolar navegar amb un o dos adults abord. Estàvem veient las tripulacions preparen els seus vaixells i sortint cap el camp de regata quan un vaixell del comitè de regates se'ns va acostar i un oficial ens va preguntar si volíem navega a bord un dels bots. La Chris si va posar i em vaig quedar a bord amb les nostres dues filles. No obstant això, uns minuts després va tornar. Els oficials de regata havien trobat a algú altre. Va ser molt decebedor ja que la Chris i jo estàvem molt interessats navegar en una balandre. L'ambient de l'esdeveniment, de regata i de la festa, era molt vivificant. Ens agrada la vela i las balandres bahameses tenen un cert encant, són únics i emocionant. Després de dinar tots quatre vam fer una passejada pel poble i cap a la gran festa. Hi havia més gent que el dia anterior. I, un altra</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> mailboa</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">t va arribar amb una altra càrrega de balandres.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">La intenció dels fundadors de la </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Family Island Regatta</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> era oferir, francament, un incentiu financer per mantenir les capacitats de construcció de vaixells i de la nàutica de els mariners bahameses. Un grup d'homes de negocis nord-americans estaven preocupats que els vaixells de vela de treball de les Bahames estaven en el punt de desaparèixer darrere d'un núvol de fum del motor. Aquells homes de negocis va organitzar la </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Out Island Squadron, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">un grup partidari, el any 1953 per recollir un fons de premis dels navegants estrangers, en la seva majoria nord-americans que coneixien i estimaven les Bahames. Originalment, la regata estava coneguda com la </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Out Island Regatta</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Fins i tot, encara que el guanyador d'una carrera pot reclamar els drets de fanfarronejar la perspectiva d'una mica de diners manté l'interès de tots. La tradició dels incentius en efectiu continua en l'actualitat en forma de subsidis governamentals per la regata. Els propietaris de vaixells i las tripulacions tenen algunes dispersions en efectiu.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">La importància dels vaixells als illencs aïllats és evident. En les Bahames fins als anys 50 vaixells de vela van predominar en la pesca, el moviment de la càrrega i del trànsit de passatgers. La majoria dels vaixells de pesca i els </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">mailboats </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">eren simples balandres. També hi havien grans vaixells de vela, com goletes. Però no obstant això, una gran part de l'aigua a les Bahames és poc fondo que limita la mida dels vaixells. Un americà, Evans W. Cottman va treballar com a metge a partir de 1940 i va prestar serveis mèdics als bahameses que vivien en comunitats aïllades a tot l'arxipèlag. En el seu llibre, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Out Island Doctor</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, Cottman compte algunes històries fascinants de la navegació a bord de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">mailboats</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, balandres de generalment menys de 30 peus d'eslora, que transportaven passatgers, càrrega i animals en coberta. Són una mica inquietants aquelles històries. La vida en les comunitats petites i aïllades va ser dur. Les Bahames poden haver estat part de l'Imperi Britànic, però les illes a terme van ser una mica oblidades i abandonades.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3HftJVBTRGdPWoQB88xrr21TItBIgIBe9fW2STPyxbNEkAcgTaF5QPQDd74Za40p5-b-4D0x3jCnbivxARcSGsEGJAjYtcSPZ4tBd2XvTEOWNyd5RJiIydk82WgImCy9GE8D1b226LDw/s1600/sloop_o_sails.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3HftJVBTRGdPWoQB88xrr21TItBIgIBe9fW2STPyxbNEkAcgTaF5QPQDd74Za40p5-b-4D0x3jCnbivxARcSGsEGJAjYtcSPZ4tBd2XvTEOWNyd5RJiIydk82WgImCy9GE8D1b226LDw/s1600/sloop_o_sails.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Dia Dos - Navegant amb el "King"</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Després de l'intent fallit de la Chris a pujar a un vaixell de regates era el meu torn per aconseguir un passeig. D'hora al matí vam tornar a la Cala Kidd. Vaig remar per tot l'ancoratge i preguntar a diversos vaixells si necessitaven tripulants. Tots em van rebutjar, però en una balandre em van suggerir que provés un vaixell de casc verd lligat al moll del port esportiu. I, llavors, vaig remar a través de la cala fins el moll i vaig preguntar a un senyor que em semblava estar a càrrec de l'embarcació si necessitava un tripulant. "Ei, vostè no té un motor," va cridar. "No necessito un motor," li vaig contestar, i ell va riure. És clar va dir, que podria utilitzar un altre tripulant de més i em va demanar que torni en una hora o així. Vaig tornar a </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> per esperar. Jo estaria navegant a bord de la </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady,</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> una balandre de Classe A. Si més no, això és el que jo pensava.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Al final de l'hora la Chris i jo vam remar a través del port cap al port esportiu. Les nenes es van quedar a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, però vam demanar a alguns amics a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Wandering Albatross </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">ancorat a prop de mantenir un ull sobre elles. Quan ens vam acosta al moll vam passar el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> una balandra de Classe B que estava sent remolcat cap al camp de regates. En la canya del timó era l'home amb que jo havia parlat i m'havia demanat a tornar. Algú a bord de la balandra em va reconèixer i va cridar a nosaltres. Em volien a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">immediatament. De debò, jo estava confós sobre el que estava passant, però vaig girar el bot i em vaig posar perseguir l'embarcació al remolc. Estevam perdent terreny, però aviat la línia de remolc va ser abandonat i el vaixell remolcador em va traslladar cap el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Vaig dir adéu a la Chris i ella va tornar a </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Quan estava a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> em vaig acostar a al timoner, el senyor que havia conegut abans, i ens vam donar la mans. Em vaig presentar i em va dir: "Jo sóc Eric, però tothom em diu King." King tenia mes de setanta anys d'edat, però es veia en forma i fort com un home molt més jove. Tenia braços musculosos i prims com els d'un boxejador. Tenia una veu profunda i parlava amb un accent distint bahames. Per descomptat, no tenia ni idea que estava navegant amb una llegenda de les Bahames en els quals la reina Elizabeth de Gran Bretanya li havia concedit un MBE , un orde de cavalleria britànica. Més tard vaig saber que el veritable nom de "King" era Eric Gibson i que era un dels músics i personalitats més famosos de les Bahames.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">La tripulació va prestar poca atenció a mi sinó a donar algunes instruccions sobre què fer. Jo era l'únic estranger a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Hi havia una atmosfera relaxada a bord, per descomptat. Com podria un nouvingut prendre's a bord amb tan poc enrenou i cerimònia? Jo tenia una mica d'experiència de carreres incloent fen de tripulant a bord d'un iot de la classe 8-Metres, i jo havia vist la intensitat que podia aconseguir en un iot de regatàs. No hi havia res d'això a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Ràpidament amb vaig ficar en el ritme a bord i vaig sortir al "pry" o la palanca. De la canya del timó King em mirava de tant en tant per veure com em comportava a la palanca i durant les viraràs i, semblava que com si fos a la seva aprovació. Jo era simplement llast humà, igual que la major part de la tripulació, i la meva funció era moure el meu pes a on es necessitava. A més del llast humà, la tripulació estava formada pel timoner, King, una mena de cap d'equip el nom de en Alli, que també era responsable per caçar el foque, i China que s'ocupava del tall de la vela major. En Allí i King treballaven junts com tàctic i navegant durant la carrera.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Una vegada que havia grimpat a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> els esdeveniments van succeir ràpidament. De fet, la balandre es dirigia a la línia de sortida a l'altre costat de Elizabeth Harbour. El vent des del sud-oest i la línia, com en altres cursos de regata de forma triangular, es va establir perpendicular a la direcció del vent. La línia estava marcada per dos boies. Alguns dels vaixells ja estaven en la línia. Abans el comitè de regata ens havien assignat una posició en la línia i es tractava de trobar els vaixells a banda i banda de la nostra posició. L'àncora va ser llançada sobre el costat de sobrevent de la línia. A continuació, vam deixar que el vent empentes el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> fins que la proa estava alineada amb la línia de sortida. Mentrestant, les veles s'havien baixat, però es van preparar per alçar ràpidament.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">La zona de la sortida estava plena de balandres, vaixells de el comitè i de vaixells d'espectadors. Tot era soroll i confusió; les instruccions del King i en Alli, els comandaments del comitè de regates, els crits dels altres equips i crits dels espectadors. Un dels meus companys de tripulació ràpidament em va explicar com la sortida es faria. La tripulació, a excepció del timoner i els que se s'ocupaven de las velàs, va formar una mena de cua de la proa a popa i cada home tenia la corda de l'àncora a las mans. Després hi va haver un tret, l'advertència de un minut abans de la sortida. El soroll va disminuir una mica duran aquell minut però no era complet silenci. Cada membre de la tripulació en cada un dels 15 vaixells es va apoderar del las cordes nerviosament esperant, i esperant. I, de sobte, el tret de sortida es va senti a tot al port. La corda de l'àncora es va retirar ràpidament. De vegades les mans es perdien el seu agafament i els colzes d'un home interferien amb l'home en popa. El vaixell va lliscar cap endavant i a poc a poc va guanya velocitat. Amb la velocitat les velàs es van alçar ràpidament. L'àncora un cop a bord va ser llançat en la bodega i oblidada. Una vegada que les velàs estaven plenes el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">va començar a escorar i les palanques van entrar en joc.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Les palanques, o "pry boards" com se'ls anomena en anglès, són la característica singular de las balandres bahameses. Un dissenyador de vaixells caritativament diria que las balandres porten a una àrea massa gran de vela. Las balandres són molt inestables i les palanques s'utilitzen per contrarestar la pressió sobre la velàs. Quan el vaixell comença a inclinar-se, la tripulació ha de lliscar al seus culs al llarg del les palanques que projecten de sobrevent. Virar el vaixell implica lliscar de nou, amb un pendent baixant si tot va bé, cap a la barca el més ràpid possible. L'últim home fora de la palanca, en altres paraules, l'home més externa, llisca la palanca cap el centre del vaixell i fins que sortir de l'altre costat. Això també ha de ser sincronitzada amb la botavara que ve a través. A bord de las balandres de las Classes A i B això pot ser complicat. No hi ha molt espai entre la botavara i la coberta com el agullot és només a uns quants centímetres per sobre de la coberta. Quan el vaixell vira, la tripulació ha de capbussar-se sota la botavara o llisquen sobre els seus ventres. Per fer las coses més interessants, sa ha de tenir cura de les mans i dels peus. Poden ser aixafats en qualsevol nombre de llocs, però especialment a les barres doblegades en la línia central que mantinguin l'extrem interior de las palanques.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vaig ser designat l'home mes a fora sobre la palanca de popa. Amb la confusió a bord amb semblava el lloc més segur, i va ser sense dubte un gran lloc per veure la cursa. En l'extrem de la palanca podia mirar cap avall i veure la quilla i el timó a través de l'aigua cristal·lina. Però, havia d'estar alerta pel que el vaixell estava fent a causa del vent i en conseqüència moure cap a l'interior o exterior en funció de la força del vent. També era important escoltar el que King i en Alli deien, sobretot si l'ordre de virar es donava. En un moment de la cursa vam creuar amb una altra balandra i la punta del la nostra botavara va passar sobre els caps de la tripulació assegut sobre las palanques de l'altre vaixell. Va ser molt a prop i vaig pensar que potser seria una bona idea utilitzar cascos. El </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> va acabar la carrera al mig de la flota i tots a bord semblaven satisfets del resultat.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vam torna a la Cala Kidd, i passa'n vaig saludar la Chris i les nenes a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Ancorem el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> a prop del moll i vam anar a terra. Allà ens vam dedicar a la preparació del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> per la cursa. La majoria dels tripulants de King havien arribat de Nassau al voltant de las quatre hores del matí i havien tingut dificultats trobant llocs per quedar-se. La major part de la tripulació eren originalment d'Illa Acklins al sur de las Bahames, com era King, però ara tots vivien a Nassau. Tenien quatre vaixells, però només havien portat el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">i el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> a la regata de George Town. Els tripulants de King s'havien repartit entre diverses altres embarcacions per a l'esdeveniment de Classe B, però ara poc a poc es derivaven al moll per preparar-se per l'esdeveniment de Classe A. Encara quedava molt per fer abans que el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> estava llest. Las velàs encara no s'havien muntat. A més dels tripulants del King havien uns quants estrangers a bord, dos canadencs, un català i un nord-americà.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Durant la regata les coses no van passar com s'esperava a bord del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, però d'altra banda ningú estava molt molestat pels resultats. Vaig tenir la impressió que el King i els seus nois estaven feliços de participar, festejar i jugar. Els estrangers a bord també van tenir la mateixa perspectiva. Vam arriba tard per per la sortida, un cop més a l'altre costat de Elizabeth Harbour, però com ja he dit que estava bé amb tothom. El </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">i l'altre vaixell que va fer tard, el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Who Dat</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, van navega el recorregut perseguint a la resta de la flota. Com no hi havia pressió era agradable a gaudir del passeig. El vent era més lleuger que en la cursa de la Classe B. Tots els estrangers a bord tenien somriures a les seves cares mentre asseguts a las palanques. D'altra banda alguns dels nois de King sospito que estaven navegant amb ressaca. De tornada al moll el contingent estranger estava feliç quan King els va preguntar si tots poguéssim tornar al dia següent.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">De cara a tornar el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle,</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> Bob Fleury, un dels canadencs a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, amb va donar passeig a bord del seu bot. Amb la dona de en Bob al timó vam creuar a través de l'ancoratge i ens vam aturar per preguntar si algun dels bots de la Classe C necessitaven tripulants. En un dels vaixells un parell de homes es preparaven per a la carrera. El capità ens van rebutjar, però mentre que ens allunyàvem, se'ns va demanar que tornem. Per un moment vaig pensar que potser només volia un de nosaltres, però ens volia els dos. El capità va dir que estava esperant l'arribada d'un parell d'altres companys. Devia pensar que era millor prendre dos cossos vius que estaven preparats i disposats. És molt possible que els altres dos mai arribarien, i si es presentaven no serien en condició de navegar havien sucumbit a las temptacions de la festa. El </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vitamalt Thunderbird </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">era un vaixell nou i mai havia competit en una regata. En Bob i jo vam pujar a bord i vam ajudar al capità, Joshua Green, mountar la vela major. Passa'n per davant de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">vaig saludar amb la mà la Chris i les nenes. Amb les nostres samarretes de color taronja brillant i amb el logotip del patrocinador ens destacàvem com quatre senyals d'alt a bord d'un vaixell.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">La carrera de la Classe C es va dur a terme en vent que fallava, però era la millor cursa que vaig fer aquell dia. Malgrat el bon resultat, en Joshua, no estava satisfet amb l'ajust de l'embarcació, els pesos de llast de plom estaven mal col.locats. També en Joshua va dir que el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vitamalt Thunderbird</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> hauria estat més eficaç si el vent hagués estat més fort. En les ràfegues la balandre semblava que guanyava temps dels seus competidors, però el perdria en l'aire més lleuger. En qualsevol cas es tractava d'una bona carrera. En Bob i jo havíem corregut las Classes A i B i per la tercera carrera estàvem molt hàbil amb las palanques. El vaixell més lleuger és més sensible i el treball de la palanca requereix més subtilesa. En els vents variables quan muntàs la palanca estas en constant moviment cap enrere i cap endavant. Estàvem gairebé mai immòbils, però era molt divertit. En Josuha em semblava satisfet amb la nostra capacitat i de tornada en l'ancoratge en Bob i jo vam ser convidats de nou per al dia següent.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Un dia de curses en les tres classes de vaixells m'havia donat l'oportunitat de tenir una mirada de prop a las embarcacions tradicionals de les Bahames. Durant l'últim mig segle, els vaixells i els seus equipaments han canviat fins al punt que ara són gairebé irreconeixibles als de la dècada de 1950. El comitè de regates s'esforça per mantenir un equilibri entre la tradició i la modernitat. Tothom vol guanyar i les regles sempre han estat empesos pels capitans, las tripulacions i constructors de vaixells. Les balandres, per descomptat, es construeixen a un conjunt de normes establertes pel comitè de regates. Els vaixells han de ser dissenyats, construïts i tripulats per bahameses. Las balandres de las Classes A i B son d'aproximadament 28 i 21 peus d'eslora respectivament. Els vaixells han de ser de construcció de fusta i en l'aparença han de ser la forma "tradicional de les Bahames." El llast mòbil i a l’interior del casc és preferit pel comitè de regates. No es permeta'n torns. Els pals no poden portar creuetes.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Al llarg de l'últim mig segle els balandres han tendit a convertir-se en "màquines de competició," construït per la velocitat en lloc de servir a funció de vaixell de pesca o vaixells de transport. Aquest aspecte de màquina de competició és més evident en la gran quantitat de vela que porten las balandres i bots en relació amb la seva mida del casc. Les normes recomanen per una balandre de la Classe A un pal de longitud màxima de 60 peus i una botavara d'una longitud màxima de 32 peus, i això en un casc de només 28 peus d'eslora. La vela major es alça amb una gran tableta de fusta que resulta en encara més superfície. D'altra banda el foque és relativament petit, ja que s'ha d'encaixar en el triangle format pel l'estai de proa i el pal. Malgrat las seves petites superfícies, las foques són fonamentals per virar las balandres de las Classes A i B. La importància de les foques es va posar de manifest per mi en diverses ocasions durant la regata. No obstant això, els bots de la Classe C no tenen foques .Les normes exigeixen que les veles han de ser fetes de tela de cotó.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Jo diria que els vaixells haitians estan més en consonància amb l'esperit de la primera sortida a la </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Out Island Regatta</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> de 1953. Durant el nostre temps navegant a les Bahames vam veure alguns dels vaixells d'Haití. Construïts a las platjas amb materials locals, las veles són de colors de vegades incongruent, ja que es cusen juntes de les restes de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">banners</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> publicitaris rescatats. Els mariners d'Haití no són benvinguts en les Bahames, però a un cert nivell són tolerades per les autoritats. A Nassau, una vegada vam veure una mitja dotzena barques d'Haiti ancorats prop de l'entrada del port en contrast amb els creuers grans en els molls propers. Els haitians exerceixen el paper de recol.lectors de deixalles, recollien qualsevol cosa que pugui tenir algun valor a Haití, però vist com escombraries en les Bahames. Diverses vegades hem vist vaixells d'Haití, les seves cobertes carregades de matalassos usats, mobles i bicicletes velles, travessant el port de Nassau passat els grans hotels, més enllà dels creuers i els iots dels rics. Es veuen com els vells </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">mailboats</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> de les Bahames. Els haitians no tenen necessitat d'una regata de vaixells tradicionals.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV3NqsDWAZcDs9dh7Cbq88wlEGFeJAUl4V5w8VjW-TPYb9IGFgfufhE_JnQeER_JNZj7exDC7GUYZL7dI5LI2IEohfo_cyN8WH8o_i8S7gLd4yZR7DCXBD2INH5OIfR2GO9yT6xbjbFSU/s1600/bahamas3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV3NqsDWAZcDs9dh7Cbq88wlEGFeJAUl4V5w8VjW-TPYb9IGFgfufhE_JnQeER_JNZj7exDC7GUYZL7dI5LI2IEohfo_cyN8WH8o_i8S7gLd4yZR7DCXBD2INH5OIfR2GO9yT6xbjbFSU/s400/bahamas3.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Dia Tres - Vitamalt, la beguda que posa mina en el teu llapis</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></div><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">En el tercer dia de la regata jo havia de fer un esforç per resoldre un problema. El dia anterior, tot el temps que estava a bord de las balandres, jo estava pensant de la Chris a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hirondelle</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> i que ella també volia participa en la regata. La seva única oportunitat havia estat anul.lada, però jo per bona sort havia navegat en tres embarcacions diferents. Durant els nostres viatges a les Bahames ens havíem adonat que las dones bahameses gairebé mai sortien en petites embarcacions. Ens preguntàvem si es tractava d'un fenomen cultural. L'any anterior havíem vist una dona conduint un vaixell de motor, que treballava amb diversos vaixells de pesca. Vam pensa que era notable perquè va ser l'única vegada que vam veure una dona bahameses conduir un vaixell. En la </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Family Island Regatta</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> algunes de las balandres hi havien dones a bord, però totes elles eren estrangers, entre elles una era a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Obviament King no tenia cap problema amb tripulants femení, així vaig pensar que la Chris podria fe de tripulant a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Dijous d'hora al matí estaven ancorats de nou fora de Cala Kidd. La carrera de Classe B, va tornar a ser la primera del dia. El vent era fluix al principi però a poc a poc va guanya forca durant tota la carrera. Peró el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> va ser superat par la majoritat de la flota i va acabar antepenúltim. Llavors vam torna de nou al moll per preparar el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">per la seva cursa. King es va mostrar feliç de tenir la Chris a bord i va ser un gran alleugeriment per a mi. Vam conèixer l'esposa de King quan ella va portar entrepans per a la tripulació. Havíem quedat que a les nostres filles anessin a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Wandering Albatross</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Allà serien subministrats amb galetes i dolços, i ferien gairebé cap atenció al que els seus pares estaven fent.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">El </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> va fer una sortida una mica desafortunada des de el moll. A la deriva i fora de control va travessa el ancoratge dels creuers, però sense xocar amb ninguna barca. Almenys aquesta vegada, vam arriba a la línia de sortida a temps. Després d'haver ancorat, i mentre esperàvem l'inici, un bot inflable es va acostar de el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady.</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> Una dona d'uns cinquanta anys, més o menys, en el bot va atreure l'atenció de King. "Escolta, King," ella va cridar, "Jo et vaig conèixer fa 35 anys a Nassau." La tripulació la mirava mentre que ella va fer algunes fotografies i després va seguir el seu camí. No crec que King tenia la menor idea qui era la dona, però alguns de la tripulació li van prendre el pèl.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Per a la tripulació del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> la segona cursa de la Classe A va ser molt memorable, però per raons equivocades. Almenys ningú va resultar ferit. Una brisa de 15 nusos bufava onades i escuma a travesse de Elizabeth Harbour. Una altra vegada jo estava l'home de fora sobre la palanca de popa. La Chris estava en la mateixa palanca però cap a l'interior. Amb la seva àmplia experiència en regatàs de bots ella ràpidament es van acostumar a la palanca. El </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">va tenir una bon sortida, sense encallar-se amb qualsevol altre vaixell. Pel als tripulants sobre las dos palanques, amb el fort vent que bufava, era una excursió emocionant. Assegut molt per sobre de l'aigua, de tant en tant mira cap avall per veure la quilla a través de l'aigua clara i el sentiment de la premsa del vent gronxant el vaixell, va ser molt estimulant. Però, el bon temps no va durar. Mentre que estàvem en una bordada d'estribord, en direcció a la primera boia de sobrevent acostat d'Illa Stocking, hi va haver un cruixit fort, el so de fusta trencant. Jo a la palanca i amb els altres tripulants a davant meu, no vaig poder veure res, però, la botavara tenia una esquerda un metre de llarg a partir del agullot. De sobte era molt tranquil a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Què passaria tothom pensava? Afortunadament, res realment dolent.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Amb una mà ferma agafada el timó King va mantenir el seu rumb i va envia cap endavant en China amb una llargada de corda. Tots vam mirar com en China va embolica la corda el voltant de la esquerda. Jo no crec que ningú creia que la reparació aguantaria un cop que la barca virava. Per complicar les coses va ser el fet que estàvem en una bordada d'estribord i hauríem de circular la boia amb una bordada de babord. Virar seria un problema en la nostra condició delicada. A mes diversos vaixells per davant de nosaltres estaven a punt d'arribar a les proximitat de la boia, tots al mateix temps. Era molt clar que no hi hauria espai per a tots ells. Els patrons bahameses navegant els seus vaixells com si tinguessin molta cobertura d'assegurança, o potser com si ells no en tenen. Acostant-se a la boia, el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> va colpejar de costat a costat amb un vaixell. La Chris es va escapolir a bord i es va asseure a la vora de la coberta mirant per el que passaria a continuació. Quan el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">es va posa amb proa al vent i estabilitzar, els extrems de las palanques es van submergit en l'aigua. Jo amb vaig haver de aguantar fort perquè la pressió de l'aigua va tractar de tirar-me de la palanca. Vaig arriba a la coberta sense res pitjor que un remull. Però un home en l'altra palanca es va capbussar en l'aigua. Ens vam allunyar de l'altra embarcació amb prou impuls per arribar a la boia, al mateix temps que un altre vaixell. La proa del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">va colpejar l'altre vaixell just a popa de la proa del altra balandre. Estàvem llavors parats. Era evident que no podíem continuar. També ens faltava d'un parell de tripulants. Vaig mirar al meu voltant però no vaig poder trobar la Chris. El company que s'havia capbussat el vaig veure a la palanca d'un altre vaixell que s'estava allunyant del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady.</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> Un altra dels nostres tripulants també s'havia capbussat per evitar ser escombrat per la botavara d'un altre vaixell, però aquest va tornar a bord del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady.</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> No vaig poder trobar la Chris perquè en tot la confusió ella va tenir el seny de capbussar-se en la bodega. Si els vaixells no estaven fets de fusta la situació hauria estat un desastre. Una de les nostres estais, que suportava el pal, s'havia trencat en una de les col.lisions. Era el bon moment per baixar la vela major. Com vaig dir abans, per sort, no hi va haver ferits.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">El </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> va torna al moll amb nomes la ajuda del foque. Allà vam revisar els danys i perjudicis. King va dir que ell podria arreglar la botavara a temps per a la carrera del dia següent. Va proposar embolicar la ruptura amb fibra de vidre. La Chris i jo teníem experiència amb les reparacions de fibra de vidre i ens vam oferir a ajudar King. Ell ens va agrair, però va dir que no era necessari. Em vaig anar a la carrera de la Classe C a bord de el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vitamalt Thunderbird</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Aquesta vegada vam tenir un cinquè home a bord, que va ajudar en les condicions de fort vent. Vam tenir una sortida una mica descurada i vam fracassa una de las virades. Això va ser suficient per que la resta de la flota ens va deixa en darrere. Vam acabar onzè. Havia estat un dia dur.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Més tard aguell dia algú ens va mostrar un article publicat unes dies abans de la regata en un periòdic bahameses sobre la tema del nostre patró King. Ens vam assabentar que ell era un natiu d'Illa Acklins al sud de les Bahames. En la dècada de 1950 va formar la banda de calipso </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">King Eric and His Knights</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> jugant els nightclubs i hotels a Nassau. King i la seva banda van ser molt populars al llarg de la dècada de 1960 i és reconegut allà on vagi a les Bahames. Més tard va obrir un estudi d'enregistrament per la promoció d'altres músics de les Bahames. Ara dirigeix un espectacle de varietats per als turistes en un dels grans hotels al costat de la famosa Platja Cable a Nassau, però que també està involucrat en diversos negocis. Un fill seu és un membre del parlament Bahames. La seva participació en les regatàs de balandres es remunta molts anys. No només navega, però ell i la seva dona fabrica'n moltes de les veles utilitzades per als altres competidors. En el 2004 la reina Elizabeth va concedir King amb la designació de MBE (Membre de l'Ordre de l'Imperi Britànic) per les seves contribucions a la música i la societat de les Bahames.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY6F0vb_mHBSadwxsPO6rnBPLNHy24IQEFyBh_iBWEMnRQrSA8iPJNoVACeOkiAfliZeQzKoVo7lyAGevUHa8s9S7quLov3VwJBouhqUgifk8uEdfHgtxU45oVnhbFnsd8Jti_cpY_UiY/s1600/family_island_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY6F0vb_mHBSadwxsPO6rnBPLNHy24IQEFyBh_iBWEMnRQrSA8iPJNoVACeOkiAfliZeQzKoVo7lyAGevUHa8s9S7quLov3VwJBouhqUgifk8uEdfHgtxU45oVnhbFnsd8Jti_cpY_UiY/s1600/family_island_1.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Dia Quatre - Un altre dia a les carreres</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">El quatre dia de competició va també ser molt interessant. Els vaixells de Classe B van córrer primer i a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> las coses no van anar bé. El rendiment de la tripulació hauria fet una tropa de pallassos envejat. Vaig pensar que la majoria de la tripulació no va ser molt útil a King en la preparació dels dos vaixells abans de les carreres. Els bahameses havien sortit de festa fins altes hores del matí i per la major part van arribar tarde en el moll. Un parell de membres de la seva tripulació i jo vam ajudar King a canviar les veles de el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Sortint del moll va ser una comèdia d'errors acompanyada per un cor de crits, ordres i contraordres. Confusió en una paraula. Vam sortir del moll amb el timó de el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">a bord amb la intenció de deixar-lo a bord de </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> que estava ancorat a terme. La tripulació del nostre vaixell remolcador no entenia els diverses crits que emani-en des-de el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> i no es va poder lliurar el timó com previst. Simplement es va deixar el timó caure a l'aigua prop de l'inici per ser recollit després. La confusió va fer a bord d'un ambient molt inestable almenys pel meu sentiment. Vam fer la sortida força bé però una de las primeres virades va se un fracas, que ens va deixar parat i la flota va avançar sense nosaltres. Finalment, quan tots ens vam adonar que estàvem irremeiablement enrere, la tensió va disminuir a bord. En un moment durant la cursa vaig ser arrossegat fora de la palanca per una onada i em vaig trobar penjant de la borda, les meves cames en l'aigua. King em va mirar i va cridar: "salvar l'home!" Un parell de la tripulació sense cerimònies em van arrossegar a bord. Al llarg de la carrera hi va haver una constant lluita verbal entre King i els seus nois. King els castigava perquè havien estat masa de festa i masa tarde. La tripulació, almenys alguns, insistint que no havien sortit tan tard com King pensava. Quan vam tornar al moll em preocupava el que passaria a bord de el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady.</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vam traslladar el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">des-de l'ancoratge fins al moll i vam canviar les seves veles. Un vaixell de motor ens va lliurar al timó. Durant la nit King havia reparat la botavara. Hi havia una massa de fibra de vidre embolicada al voltant de l'esquerda com un enorme dit embenat. La Chris va pujar a bord i li vaig explicar el que havia passat a bord de el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Quan vam tenir un remolc des-de el moll, possiblement ens va salva una mica de vergonya. Malgrat una bona sortida i navegant més o menys competents, vam acabar darrere de la majoria de la flota. El vent va tornar apropar-se de 15 nusos i en ocasions el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">estava gairebé de costat. Per els que estaven el las palanques va ser molt emocionant, i una mica alarmant.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">La tripulació del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vitamalt Thunderbird </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">va fer un bon esforç en la cursa de Classe C. Però ens vam veure frustrats per una decisió adoptada abans de la cursa. Perquè en aquell moment el vent era bastant fort, en Joshua va pensar que seria més adequat utilitzà la vela amb menys superfície. En conseqüència vam muntar la botavara més curta i la vela més petita. Per descomptat, un cop compromesos amb aquesta mesura no hi ha manera de tornar enrere. S'hauria anat millor amb la vela més gran, perquè en el moment de la sortida el vent estaven fallant. No obstant això, vam navegar bé. Per la forma en que la cursa es va traçar, la flota va haver de navegar en el tram de vent a popa a través de l'ancoratge dels creuers. En Joshua va esta mol ocupat que la punta de la botavara no s'en enganxes amb els aparellatges dels vaixells ancorats. Dues de les balandres darrere de nosaltres va tenir una trobada estrany. Al pal de una balandre va enganxar l'estai d'una altre barca. Un dels pals es va doblegar-se a un grau extraordinari abans de trencar-se. La peça trencada va caure sobre la coberta de proa, per fortuna sense fer mal a la tripulació.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Després de tres curses jo estava esgotat i afamat. La Chris i les noies estaven en terra gaudint de la festa i vaig trobar-les després d'un temps de vagar entre las multituds. La música de diverses fonts sonava una cacofonia de soroll. Menjar i beguda estava disponible en diversos estands. Hi havia una petita presència policial, però la multitud era amistosa i feliç, la seva majoria bahames amb uns pocs estrangers. Algú va dir que el bisbe anglicà de les Bahames estava de visita a l'illa. Si ell buscava pecadors tindria una tasca senzilla. La festa era ben divertida.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Més tard, la Chris i jo vam discutir la situació a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> i el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. No teníem cap dubte que King era un bon, fins i tot, un excel.lent mariner però els seu tripulants no estaven en mateix nivell de habilitat. La Chris pensava que la majoria tenien molt poca experiència navegant. De vegades semblava que no se adonaven de la importància de les ordres o instruccions de King. Per exemple, era molt important per aconseguir el foque de un costat al altra amb rapidesa durant una virada, si no el vaixell se aturaria. Eventualment, ells aprendrien aquestes coses, i amb King tenien un bon instructor. Una vegada que la Chris es va adonar del nivell d'habilitat que tenia la tripulació es va sentir més còmoda prendre la iniciativa en algunes de les maniobres, per exemple, durant el ancoratge i amarratge. Per la seva banda, King va veure que la Chris i jo estàvem còmodes en un vaixell d'una manera que la majoria dels seus nois no ho eren. Crec que s'aprecia això i que ens tingués a bord. Un parell de tripulants van ser estranyament adversos a l'aigua. Un home no volia muntar la palanca, perquè no volia mullar-se, i un altre portava una bossa de plàstic sota de la seva samarreta per impedir que es mulli. Per a nosaltres, els estrangers a bord, mullar-se va ser part de la diversió, com ànecs a l'aigua.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjas2EEASc1I3YwH6AMLa7JbwomjHupEcnkx1x-ORKd1few9hF4RFJZGmlyefA00JfWxGeOTrg2R_3oD6YAkgSZ0PzJVv1Jrx2wHrki9Xrb5_iVUTeEa7rwM8tdOUsGki8H_9O0-s0of8I/s1600/family_island_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjas2EEASc1I3YwH6AMLa7JbwomjHupEcnkx1x-ORKd1few9hF4RFJZGmlyefA00JfWxGeOTrg2R_3oD6YAkgSZ0PzJVv1Jrx2wHrki9Xrb5_iVUTeEa7rwM8tdOUsGki8H_9O0-s0of8I/s1600/family_island_2.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Dia Cinc - You've Gotta Regatta</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">El dissabte era l'últim dia de la regata. L'ordre de les carreres havia canviat i era la cursa de Classe C seria la primera del dia. En Bob em va venir a buscar d'hora i vam pujar a bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vitamalt Thunderbird</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> a tres quarts de vuit. En Joshua havia triat per la gran vela. Ja, al començament hi havia una brisa de 15 nusos agitant onades al terme de Elizabeth Harbour. A bord el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vitamalt Thunderbird </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">l'estat d'ànim era optimista i tots estàvem disposats a fer en una bona carrera. Vam tenir una bona sortida sense interferir o ser interferides pels altres vaixells. En Bob i jo estàvem com sempre en la palanques. Des de la línia de sortida vam esta en una vira a babord i ens dirigim a la cantonada del camp de regates prop de Regatta Point de front de George Town, el vent del sud-oest. En front de Regatta Point vam virar a estribord i a mesura quan ens acostàvem al centre del camp que probablement estevam entre els cinc primers vaixells. El </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Legal Weapon</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> estava amurat a babord i estava acostant el centre del camp. Cobert per les veles i sense cap de la tripulació a la proa observant, el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Legal Weapon </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">no ens podia veure. Era evident a en Bob i jo que anàvem a xocar. El meu instint era de cridar "estribord", perquè teníem dret sobre un vaixell a babord, però com un convidat a bord no volia usurpar l'autoritat del capità. Crec que en Bob tenia el mateix sentiment. Just quan estàvem a punt de xocar, en Joshua va empènyer la canya posant la proa el vent i evitant així la col.lisió. Un moment mes tarde el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Legal Weapon</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> va virar i es va allunyar, però nosaltres ens vam trobar parats. No hi va haver més remei que abaixar la vela, deixa la barca surar amb el vent per guanyar velocitat, llavors hissar la vela i continuar. Però la flota ens havia deixat enrere. Era decebedor, especialment que el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vitamalt Thunderbird</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> va navegat bé. A favor del vent la barca va trobar la seva bona gambada i tots vam pensar que podríem haver acabat en una de les tres primeres posicions, si no haguéssim tingut l'incident amb <em>Legal Weapon</em>. Més tard, ancorat en la Cala Kidd mentrestant que desmuntàvem la vela i la botavara, vam poder escoltar el patrocinador del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vitamalt Thunderbird</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> enfadat i escridassant la tripulació del <em>Legal Weapon</em>. És poc probable que la tripulació del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Legal Weapon</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> van ser molt preocupat, ja que havien guanyat els honors de la Classe C. Eren bon navegadors però no van mantenir una vigilància adequada. En veu baixa en Joshua ens va dir que havia posat proa al vent perquè volia que ningú es fes mal. No tenia altra opció i havia pres la decisió correcta, és només una regata després de tot. No deixava de pensar que jo hauria d'haver cridat. L'amo de la barca va preguntar si en Bob i jo estaríem en qualsevol de les altres regatàs, era un bon reconeixement de les nostres capacitats.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">El següent cursa era de la Classe B i el que seria un pèssim exercici per el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. No vull donar la impressió que no m'estava divertint, tot la regata era molt divertit, però ho hauria estat més si els dos vaixells de King havien tingut millors resultats. Les carreres de Classe B, van ser els més estranys, frustrants, i, francament, ridículs. Almenys per a l'última carrera, el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> va tenir una bona sortida i vam fer una volta completa del camp de cursa abans que les coses es van tornar boig. Estàvem en la segona volta i navegant contra el vent quan es va fracassa una virada. La vela major es va de haver baixar i deixa el vaixell surar amb el vent per obtenir velocitat. Vam tenir el vaixell en control però poc després vam perdre una altra virada. Una vegada més es va repetir la maniobra per recuperar el control del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, però després per tercera vegada no vam pogué virar amb suficient rapidesa, perdent el control dels cables de control de la vela de floc. La tripulació es va quedar en silenci i em vaig sentir malament per King. Ell se sentia frustrat, però ho va prendre amb calma. A diferència d'alguns dels capitans amb que jo havia navegat King mai va perdre la calma no va abusa cap de la seva tripulació. En aquest moment estàvem irremeiablement darrere de tots els altres vaixells i el pretext va ser que se havia trencat una peça de equipament. King va elegir per tornar a Cala Kidd. Teníem temps de desmuntar la vela major i la botavara del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen.</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> Vam trasllada algunas de las peces de llast de plom des-de l'embarcació de Class B a’l </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady.</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> La Chris va arribar i tots dos van ajudar mentre que la majoria de la tripulació se’n van anar corrent a terra, per llepar les ferides i esmorzar. La Chris, jo i alguns altres vam navegar el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ansbacher Queen</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> amb la ajuda del foque fins el moll del govern. La Chris va tenir l'oportunitat de timonar per una estona. Vam ancorar darrere d'un dels </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">mailboats</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. Una vegada que vam esta a terra King em va comprar una cervesa i vam caminar a través de la festa i les multituds feliços fins al moll del port esportiu.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">A poc a poc l'equip va tornar al moll i ens vam transportar a on el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> estava ancorat. Un altre espectacle de pallassos es va jugar a Cala Kidd. Sortir de un ancoratge amb nomes la ajuda de vela té el potencial de entretenir els espectadors. No vam defraudar. Vam travessar l’ancoratge dels creuers, afortunadament molt a poc a poc perquè també teníem poc control. Vam surar per sobre el cable de l'àncora d'un creuer. La corda va lliscar al llarg de la quilla del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> i es va ficar en la bretxa entre el timó i el casc. Això ens va deixar parats i vam donar la volta fins que estàvem de costat a costat amb el creuer en qüestió. Afortunadament, els propietaris de l'embarcació de creuer no es trobaven a bord. Mentre que alguns de nosaltres es vam defensar las dos barca, un parell de la tripulació es va capbussar i van ser capaços de lliscar el cable fora de la bretxa. Tot l'episodi es va promulgar un parell d'eslores lluny del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Wandering Albatross</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, el vaixell, on les nostres filles estaven entretingudes. És una bona cosa quan els nens poden riure's del que fan els seus pares, i les noies van tenir una bona ullada de prop dels disbarats d'ells.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lliure per fi, vam navegar a més aventures. Per sort vam arribar d'hora a la línia de sortida, ni tampoc vam fracassar la sortida. Simplement, els altres vaixells van navegar millor que nosaltres i ens van deixar enrere. Un vaixell, però, va tenir d'abandonar a causa d'una vela esquinçada. No vam fer res realment malament, vam fer tots els nostres virades sense problemes, però amb menys finor que las altres tripulacions. L'últim tram de la carrera es va desenvolupar d'una boia per sota del monument en l'Illa Stocking diagonalment a través del port a la meta fora de Regatta Point. Una altra vegada jo estava en l'extrem exterior de la palanca amb la Chris més endins en la mateixa palanca i va ser uns minuts gloriosos quan el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> perseguia la resta de la flota. Era un avantatge ser l'últim vaixell perquè teníem un bonic espectacle de la flota per davant sobre les aigües de color turquesa. La multitud d'espectadors, tant a terra com en embarcacions, tenia una bonica vista de la flota de carreres. A dalt un cel gloriós blau amb uns quants núvols, per sota, l'aigua cristal·lina. I, enfilat a la part alta de la palanca jo tenia el millor seient per veure-ho tot. En creuar la línia va haver crits i botzines a tot volum. Un vaixell de motor pel d'espectadors es va apropar del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">per saludar i animar King. Tenia un gran somriure i va saludar als seus amics. La regata havia acabat.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Vam ancora el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> enfront del moll del govern i vam desmuntar les veles i la botavara. Més tard el </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lucayan Lady</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, amb el pal en peu, es va hissar a bord d'un </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">mailboat </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">per al viatge a Nassau. Els tripulants van enganxar passejades a terra tan aviat com van poder i van córrer per la gran festa. Abans de sortir, la Chris i jo, vam agrair King per deixar-nos navegar amb ell i els seus companys. Vam dir adéu al cap d'equip, en Alli, i li vam donar les gràcies també. Llavors la Chris i jo vam caminar pel carrer principal cap a la festa. Hi havia una gran multitud davant de l'edifici del govern veient la Banda de la Policia de les Bahames. Ens vam trobar amb les noies i els seus escortes del </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Wandering Albatross</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. I, tots ens vam dirigir a la festa de la regata per una mica de menjar i unes quantes cerveses.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 19px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span class="hps">He</span> <span class="hps">publicat</span> <span class="hps">aquest bloc</span> <span class="hps">fa</span> <span class="hps">algun</span> <span class="hps">temps</span> <span class="hps">en anglès.</span> <span class="hps">He</span> <span class="hps">traduït</span> <span class="hps">l'obra</span> <span class="hps">al català</span> <span class="hps">en part</span> <span class="hps">com una</span> <span class="hps">excersise</span> <span class="hps">per</span> <span class="hps">practicar el meu</span> <span class="hps">català</span> <span class="hps">escrit</span>, que és <span class="hps">certament</span> <span class="hps">feble</span>. <span class="hps">Espero</span> <span class="hps">que sigui d'interès</span>. <span class="hps">Hi ha molt</span> <span class="hps">poca</span> <span class="hps">informació</span> <span class="hps">sobre les</span> <span class="hps">Bahames</span> <span class="hps">disponible</span> <span class="hps">en català</span>.</em></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><em><span class="hps">Les</span> <span class="hps">fotografies</span> <span class="hps">a color</span> <span class="hps">van ser</span> <span class="hps">preses</span> <span class="hps">per la Chris</span> <span class="hps">durant</span> la regata de<span class="hps"> 2005</span>. <span class="hps">La</span> <span class="hps">fotografia</span> <span class="hps">en blanc</span> <span class="hps">i</span> <span class="hps">negre</span> <span class="hps">s'ha</span> <span class="hps">pres</span> <span class="hps">del llibre</span></em> Bahama Islands <em><span class="hps">de J.</span> <span class="hps">Linton</span> <span class="hps">Rigg</span>.</em></span>Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-69757859286935574682011-12-04T19:29:00.002+01:002011-12-11T18:15:25.627+01:00The Ex Votos of la Cisa, Premia de Dalt<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCDxTVZ_t59CzhnOhR-k8ZIdGjCGM2NKb8uR3FzmF3CXxHcZ5A_3BQPXlk6A7Y_XDYLzfmjAQwpU9GenU-lZ7Vi2zAMFn3oEzuQBA1dfDVPlsUsC-sOYp6iyu66egAvDqH5FRuh2wZ29M/s1600/laCisa22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCDxTVZ_t59CzhnOhR-k8ZIdGjCGM2NKb8uR3FzmF3CXxHcZ5A_3BQPXlk6A7Y_XDYLzfmjAQwpU9GenU-lZ7Vi2zAMFn3oEzuQBA1dfDVPlsUsC-sOYp6iyu66egAvDqH5FRuh2wZ29M/s1600/laCisa22.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santuari de la Mare de Deu de la Cisa, Premia de Dalt, from an old postcard. This view looks <br />
almost due north with the land sloping down toward the sea on the right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The Santuari de la Mare de Deu de la Cisa is a small church with an austere baroque facade located in the town of Premia de Dalt. The church sits part way up the slope of the Serralada Litoral, a range of low mountains north-east of Barcelona, and overlooks the Mediterranean. It is home to a small statue of the Virgin Mary and Christ that during several hundred years has been an object of pilgrimage and veneration by fishermen, sailors and mariners from various towns along a stretch of the Catalan coast. Like many Catalan churches, la Cisa, as it is known colloquially, has been damaged and rebuilt various times over the last thousand years. The most recent attempt to destroy the church occurred in July 1936, a few days after the start of the Spanish Civil War, when a group of itinerant church-burning anarchists passed through the area. Although most of the interior decorations were destroyed the building itself remained intact and the Virgin and Christ also survived. However, a large collection of<em> ex votos,</em> that had been acquired over the previous three centuries, was almost completely lost. The loss of the <em>ex voto</em>s was significant not just in terms of the physical loss of the item but also because each<em> ex voto</em> told a story of suffering, heroism and survival at sea.<br />
<br />
An <em>ex-voto</em> is an offering made in accordance to a vow. Sailors facing what would seem to be certain death would pray for their lives to some particular saint and promise to undertake a pilgrimage or make a gift to the saint’s shrine. <em>Ex votos</em> are symbols of those vows made good. Sailors, generally being a superstitious lot toiling in an environment susceptible to the vagaries of the the weather and elements, have been keen suppliers of<em> ex votos</em> in Catholic cultures. A Catalan saying goes, “he who does not go to sea, knows not how to pray to God.”<br />
<br />
At first it may seem odd that a church three kilometres from the sea and located on the slope of a mountain should be associated with mariners. From the grounds of la Cisa there is a fine view of the Mediterranean coast extending from the harbour of Premia de Mar all the way to Mataro. For hundreds of years there were few towns or villages directly at the water's edge over the length of the Catalan and Valencian coasts. The few towns with waterfronts were protected by high walls and had elaborate defences. This situation was a result of the fear of attack by Muslim pirates who ranged from the Algerian and Moroccan coasts. Most towns were set back from the sea. The fishermen would of course keep their boats down by the sea and perhaps put up a few simple buildings but they made their homes inland or on the slopes of the overlooking mountains. When the pirates finally disappeared in the late 1700s upland towns established suburbs on the coast. Usually, the groups of fishermen's shelters would form the nuclei of those suburbs which later became towns of their own. Along the coast northeast from Barcelona there are several towns that share names indicating a common origin. For example, Vilassar de Dalt--literally Upper Vilassar--is more than a thousand years old while its sea-side namesake Vilassar de Mar--Vilassar by the Sea--is only about two hundred years old. The Cisa's town, Premia de Dalt, has a seaside counterpart in Premia de Mar.<br />
<br />
So while the risk of sudden seaborne attack persisted, churches would have been built on the mountain, preferably somewhere with a good view of the sea. The original church on the site of la Cisa, was according to a legend, built on the spot where the statue of the Virgin Mary and Jesus was found by a young shepherdess. The wooden statute is about 30 centimetres tall and it portrays the Virgin seated on a throne with the Christ child sitting on her left thigh. The style is Gothic and perhaps the statue dates from the 13th century. Very likely there was some sort of religious structure on the same site that pre-dated the discovery of the statue.<br />
<br />
By the 16th century la Cisa was attracting fishermen and sailors who came to make votive offerings after some near disaster at sea. Gradually the association between the Madre de Deu de la Cisa and mariners grew stronger and the collection of <em>ex votos</em> increased until the walls of the church were covered in them. The dangers faced by mariners could be storms, pirates, accidents and acts of war. The first of May came to be an important day for la Cisa with a feast and gathering that brought together mariners and their families. A procession would be the highlight of the festival followed by picnics under the trees of the church grounds. It is a tradition that continues even if the numbers of fishermen are not what they used to be.<br />
<br />
There are different styles of <em>ex votos</em> but most were in the form of paintings, usually oil on wood, depicting the events of the sailors’ near appointment with destiny. There would be a short note explaining the circumstances of the event along with the name of the vessel and the names of the captain and sometimes of the crew. Other <em>ex votos</em> were more akin to folk art than to fine art but that does not diminish their artistic and historic values. In the case of ship models they were sometimes hung from the church ceiling. A final type of <em>ex voto</em> consisted of what is known as a half-model, where only one side of the ship is constructed. Half-models were usually mounted inside a glassed over frame to be hung on a wall.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSsMi5qeJz-6R1FVv6z91J90nG791GITpIEoHFo5rv_gf_Ne0N1U2R9jdxsFRQ-_yq2rLjiUE_-n2DlMFoLAr-EVZh5uZzWRno30AzBgLUAFt-7dDovjeCugH2SMQXOyll98Ks1U_M65s/s1600/LaCisa2.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="323" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSsMi5qeJz-6R1FVv6z91J90nG791GITpIEoHFo5rv_gf_Ne0N1U2R9jdxsFRQ-_yq2rLjiUE_-n2DlMFoLAr-EVZh5uZzWRno30AzBgLUAFt-7dDovjeCugH2SMQXOyll98Ks1U_M65s/s400/LaCisa2.gif" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An <em>ex voto</em> dedicated to the Virgin of la Cisa and now part of the collection of <br />
the Barcelona Maritime Museum.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>By chance, sometime ago we acquired an <em>ex voto</em> dedicated the the Virgin of la Cisa. We found it next to a garbage bin here in our town, Vilassar de Dalt. Presumably someone had thrown it out without realising or caring about its significance. Our <em>ex voto</em> is of the half-model type. The ship it depicts is a three-masted schooner and in this case the artist had some technical skill as the model is quite well done. Perhaps it was made by a crew member whose hobby was making ship models. Not only is the schooner well proportioned but it carries a suit of sails and the rigging is relatively accurate.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgagMWQZVksXnAsKzYis-e5AU_d8Dkt_bKXkno5WKxnqlhP2Yx4mf-t7oAnc34fRuwpciDkAdEbwynA7qJtte9QWL59Eld67OYdmE8IOTO2lCZ20WuvtxfeJA5rY3r4XacI-2CqyGZrM6U/s1600/exvoto2" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgagMWQZVksXnAsKzYis-e5AU_d8Dkt_bKXkno5WKxnqlhP2Yx4mf-t7oAnc34fRuwpciDkAdEbwynA7qJtte9QWL59Eld67OYdmE8IOTO2lCZ20WuvtxfeJA5rY3r4XacI-2CqyGZrM6U/s1600/exvoto2" /></a></div><br />
Of course there is an inscription on the <em>ex voto</em> and it reads as follows;<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><em>Ex-Voto</em></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><em>En Acción de Gracias a Ntra. Sra. de la Cisa que nos salvó de muerte</em><br />
<em> segura al ser invocada durante la galerna de 24 Julio de 1880,</em><br />
<em> fronte al cabo de Lastres a bordo del pailebote Ernesto Mas.</em></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><em>Capitán Jayme Alsina</em></div><br />
While off Cape Lastres on the Cantabrian coast facing the Bay of Biscayne, the schooner <em>Ernesto Mas</em> was struck by a gale and the crew invoked the help of the Virgin of la Cisa. Obviously they lived to tell the tale. I did some research in the library of the Maritime Museum of Barcelona but was unable to find anything definite about the ship or her captain. There was no record of the schooner <em>Ernesto Mas</em>. I did not find any reference to a Captain Jayme Alsina although the surname was very common amongst mariners from the nearby towns of el Masnou and Premia de Mar. In Catalan the name Jayme would have been written as Jaume and even then I could not find an exact match of the name. However, considering that the Alsina name is so common in the Maresme comarca (county) and that the <em>ex voto</em> is dedicated to the Virgin of la Cisa, the ship and crew were very likely from the area.<br />
<br />
The earliest <em>ex voto</em> known to have been donated to la Cisa dated from 1689 and with it a Captain Josep Sala gave thanks for winning a sea battle against some Dutch pirates. Captain Sala's offering was of course lost in the civil war. Even without the intervention of the war many of the <em>ex votos</em> in la Cisa were by 1936 already in very poor condition suffering from the effects of time. Many consisted of oil paint over wood panels and they did not keep well. A few of la Cisa’s <em>ex votos</em> have survived and are now in the collection of the Barcelona Maritime Museum.Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-55863702826974636492011-11-17T18:07:00.003+01:002012-07-19T00:32:45.529+02:00The Cemetery of Forgotten (Sailing) Books<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKdEErj6ayZwaQRPUrn8JW6cO40OjhmEx7catU4DdXu7LtGAwM-m7f1iZVsO8FxHsq4XKRa6c3UjAcly-s_7_m9Q5GFwTHt4vhkJ-bbUY0t0I4sEVh4rNfQywTnEf7KZKz9_NKu3BoDnk/s1600/books1" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKdEErj6ayZwaQRPUrn8JW6cO40OjhmEx7catU4DdXu7LtGAwM-m7f1iZVsO8FxHsq4XKRa6c3UjAcly-s_7_m9Q5GFwTHt4vhkJ-bbUY0t0I4sEVh4rNfQywTnEf7KZKz9_NKu3BoDnk/s200/books1" width="200" /></a>My favourite second-hand bookshop in Barcelona is lost somewhere in the Barri Gotic on a side street off La Rambla, the great walkway leading from Plaça de Catalunya down to the harbour. The bookshop, the Lliberia Cervantes, is near the Ateneu, bastion of Catalan culture, and steps away from the Roman tombs in Plaça de Madrid. The Cervantes brings to mind Zafón's fabulous Cemetery of Forgotten Books, but the fictitious bookshop was located closer to the harbour and on the other side of La Rambla. For a second-hand bookshop the Cervantes is relatively large and spacious. In the front room bookshelves reach to the high ceiling. A hallway, lined with glass fronted cases holding some of the more valuable volumes, leads to a larger room in the back. A bust of Cervantes faces you as you enter the back room where the walls are lined with more shelves and books. Tables laden with books fill out the room.</div>
<br />
Most of the books in the Cervantes are in Catalan and Castilian but there are volumes in French, German or English scattered about. The bookshop has been owned by the same family for eight decades and often when one opens a book to the flyleaf for the price it may be written in pesetas instead of euros. Some books have sat on the shelves for decades waiting for the right person to pick them up, browse through them and take them home. Of course, one never knows what one will find in a bookshop, it's a bit like sifting through an archaeological excavation. Perhaps a book that you have had in mind for many years, but were never able to find, and suddenly there it is in your hands. Or it may you pick up a book with an intriguing title and leafing through its pages you decide that you must have it. Sometimes, you find nothing that is sufficiently interesting to take away. If I have a few minutes before catching the bus home I may spend the time browsing the Cervantes' shelves.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblb_kzx9SR3D5Klr36o3AY-OoQwwq6QDflU_qSoNlrAo-Cuh7AC3EKJLirS39Ji3OO1r3w47Z9RsGiYiHV81A8EurtX2R9y8I1XBHNiZRSu-5zjHp-3rDXlpuMFLV7R5RWY_dim-9Y50/s1600/library.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblb_kzx9SR3D5Klr36o3AY-OoQwwq6QDflU_qSoNlrAo-Cuh7AC3EKJLirS39Ji3OO1r3w47Z9RsGiYiHV81A8EurtX2R9y8I1XBHNiZRSu-5zjHp-3rDXlpuMFLV7R5RWY_dim-9Y50/s200/library.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
Some time ago, killing time as I had a long wait for the bus, I went into the Cervantes. On entering the back room I saw a new hand-printed sign on one of the tables that read in Spanish, "Sea, Voyages, Sailing." As I approached the table I expected to find nothing more than mass market coffee table books, copies of Josep Pla's <em>Costa Brava</em>, or perhaps Spanish translations of Thor Heyderal's books from the 1960s. I scanned the spines for the titles and author names and was surprised. What I found was a collection consisting almost entirely of accounts of small-boat voyages--the cruising sailor's library of classics. Most of the books were in English, some in French and a small number were translations into Castilian. None were in Catalan.<br />
<br />
A majority of the books were first editions by English sailor/writers. Among them were five books by the mountaineer and sailor H.W. Tilman. Humphrey Barton's <em>Westward Crossing</em>, an account of his Atlantic crossing on a 25-foot Vertue sailboat, quickly caught my attention. An inscribed copy of James Wharram's <em>Two Girls, Two Catamarans</em> seemed particularly interesting. A pair of first editions by Miles Smeeton, <em>Sunrise to Windward</em> and <em>Because the Horn is There</em>, shared table space with a copy of <em>Trekka Round the World</em> by John Guzzwell, Miles and Beryl Smeeton's friend and onetime crew. There were also a dozen or so hardback reprints in <em>The Mariners Library</em> series published by Rupert Hart-Davis including W. A. Robinson's circumnavigation account <em>Deep Water & Shoal</em> and E.F. Knight's treasure hunt tale <em>The Cruise of the "Alerte."</em><br />
<br />
It took me awhile but as I looked at all of the books I realised that I had a dilemma. I would have liked to have taken them all but I was looking at eighty or ninety volumes. It made no sense to do that as I could not afford the cost. What to do? I decided to pick two volumes, let it go at that and head for the bus stop. I selected Tilman's <em>Mischief in Patagonia</em>, an account of his first combined sailing and climbing voyage; and Eric Hiscock's revised 1948 edition of <em>Wandering Under Sail</em> in which the author recounts some of his pre-WWII cruises round Britain and the coast of France aboard his yacht <em>Wanderer II</em>. <br />
<br />
How did all of these sailing books suddenly turn up in the Cervantes? And in Barcelona of all places. Barcelona does have a long maritime tradition. A stroll along its harbour and a visit to the Museu Maritime will illustrate that point. It is Spain's most important commercial harbour and there are several marinas and yacht clubs. Barcelonians also love books. Besides the city's numerous bookshops there is on Sunday mornings at the Mercat d'Sant Antoni a second-hand book market that is very popular with bibliophiles. As for the sudden appearance of the sailing books in the Cervantes I assume that the estate of some recently deceased sailor and book collector sold the volumes to the shop. Many if not most of the books bore the <em>ex libris</em> label of someone named Jose Jover. The copy of <em>Two Girls, Two Catamarans</em> had been inscribed, "To our good friend Jose Jover, (signed) Jim Wharram." I contacted some friends who had built a Wharram and know the man but I could not find out if Wharram remembered Senyor Jover. I asked several acquaintances amongst the sailors I know around Barcelona and none had heard of the man. Senyor Jover obviously had a fascination with small-boat voyages. One of the things I like about old books is that they have a history, they have been read and owned by others. I like finding notes in the margins and old book marks between the pages. When the book has been inscribed, it may have been given as a birthday or Christmas present, it has some history behind it. Senyor Jover loved sailing and books about sailing, They were undoubtedly his passions and his book collection is a testament to those passions. That his books were to be scattered to the winds is sad but they can also be enjoyed by others.<br />
<br />
On my next trip to Barcelona following my discovery I went into the Cervantes and expected all of those sailing books to have disappeared. There must be other people interested in small-boat sailing, I thought. I imagined hoards of British and American tourists, from the cruise ships that assault Barcelona, descending on the Cervantes and nabbing all of those books. Of course, the people who sail aboard giant cruise ships maybe the least interested in small-boat sailing. Would they not want to take home as a souvenir of their stop in Barcelona a copy of Hiscock's <em>Around the World in Wanderer III</em> rather than, say, a history of the second Spanish republic, written in Catalan? Of course, not everyone has the same interests. In any case, I was surprised to find that the sailing books despite being located in a prominent section of the shop were, as far as I could tell, untouched and unsold. A book is only of value to the person who is interested in it. So I bought a couple more. On another trip to Barcelona I bought still another pair of volumes. Over the next 18 months, every time I went into the city I would try to drop into the shop but it was not always possible for one reason or another. By picking up one or two volumes at a time I built up a collection of almost sixty sailing books, and spread out the cost.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately, a few books got away. I regretted not picking up one of Adrian Hayter's books after I had read his <em>Business in Great Waters, </em>although I did find in another section of the bookshop his <em>Sheila in the Wind</em> translated into Spanish. In my wanderings about second-hand bookshops and fairs in Barcelona I noted the quantities of travel and adventure books that were translated into Spanish in the twenty-five years after the Civil War. Of course you will not find Catalan books from that period. There must have been a tremendous appetite for those stories during the bleak years of the Franco dictatorship. Why the attraction? At the most basic level it is a way of experiencing with the authors their voyages but also because it was a dismal period in Spain people needed diversions from everyday life. The post-war period in Britain was also dismal with food rationing lasting until 1954. Many wanted to leave their respective countries but could not. Sailing books would have been a form of escapist literature. Speaking of escapism, I was amused to read Peter Pye's <em>The Sea is for Sailing</em> because the author, a physician, had taken up sailing to escape having to participate in the evils of socialised medicine in post-war Britain.<br />
<br />
In addition to the English-language books I found in the travel section of the Cervantes several sailing books in Spanish. There are some interesting volumes that are not available to English audiences having never been translated. An example is<em> Hong Kong-Barcelona en el Junco "Rubia,"</em> an a account of the voyage from the British colony to the Catalan capital of a Chinese junk in 1957. The author José Maria Tey had the <em>Rubia</em> built in Hong Kong and then gathered a group of friends to sail it to Catalonia. It would be interesting to find out what happened to the vessel, and the author. Another Spanish book <em>La Niña II, Tras el Surco de Colon</em> is an account of a voyage retracing Columbus's first Atlantic crossing. The author, Antonio Sagaseta de Ilurdoz, was a priest with a sense of humour who joined the crew of a <em>Niña</em> replica. The voyage, undertaken in 1962, was somewhat marred by the fact that the <em>Niña II </em>took so long to make the crossing that the crew had be very careful of their rationing its food supplies. On the other hand the <em>Niña II</em> seems to have been well stocked with wine, champagne, brandy and rum.<br />
<br />
Many sailing books are frankly poorly written, simple accounts of weather and anchorages, not much better than sailing directions or pilots. The excuse is that the authors are after all more sailors than writers. It is always a pleasure to come across a well written sailing book. I enjoy rereading Tilman's books because of his sense of humour and the fact that he does not take himself too seriously. Of course, Tilman had the advantage of making voyages to places few small-boat sailors would dare venture to. Another author who I find interesting Adrian Hayter. His <em>Sheila in the Wind</em> recounts his five-year long odyssey from England to New Zealand. In that book Hayter stands in for Odysseus and it is honest and well written. While I was writing this article I started reading Ann Davison's <em>My Ship is So Small</em> and was pleasantly surprised how well written it is but she had also previously written a book or two. Davison was the first woman to sail solo across the Atlantic and happened to be one of the better writers--she knew how to tell a good story. <br />
<br />
At one time ocean voyaging must have been a small world and an interesting aspect of the sailing books from the 1940s to the 60s is how often one author will turn up in the book of another. For example, the Smeeton's first dismasting while rounding Cape Horn is also recounted by Guzzwell in his book. Guzzwell had interrupted his voyage to help the Smeetons round South America. The Australian S.E. Bradfield recounts in his <em>Road to the Sea</em> how he and his wife meet up with the Hiscocks in the Red Sea while on a passage from Australia to England. Of course the Hiscocks knew everyone and everyone knew of Bill Tilman and his exploits. The Trinidadian sailor Harold la Borde and his wife met with the American couple of Marjorie and Al Petersen in the Caribbean. Adlard Cole's <em>North Atlantic</em> and G.C.L Payne's <em>Out of Poole</em> are both accounts of the 1950 Trans-Atlantic race. In <em>White Cliffs to Coral Reef</em> William Howell tells of buying the Hiscock's boat <em>Wanderer II</em> and then sailing her to the south Pacific and on to British Columbia.<br />
<br />
Some books are collections of cruising vignettes and they make for pleasant winter reading when the tramuntana wind is blowing over the Mediterranean and the fireplace is going. When one wants to read a few pages to recall summer sailing these are the books to pull off the bookshelf. <em>Under the Cabin Light</em> by Sir Alker Tripp, a collection of accounts of weekend and holiday cruises round about the English seacoast, falls into this category. I have reread several times Hiscock's <em>Wandering Under Sail</em> describing the author's pre-war cruises to Scotland and the French Atlantic seaboard. The latter voyage always strikes a melancholy note as it took Hiscock to some quiet fishing villages just a few days before the start of the war. Hiscock was writing about a world that was soon to disappear. Peter J. Haward, a delivery skipper, recounts in <em>All-Seasons' Yachtsman</em> several of his adventures, including the loss of a man overboard, while delivering yachts to various European destinations. Haward also sailed on <em>Severn II</em> an old eight-meter that I know as it is still sailing on Lake Ontario.<br />
<br />
I still go back to the Cervantes and find amongst its shelves more sailing accounts. A couple of years ago, up on a shelf just below the ceiling of the front room, I found a copy of J. Linton Rigg's <em>Bahama Islands</em>. The Cervantes has few patrons who would have much interest in what is essentially a 1950s cruising guide to the Bahamas, sprinkled with the author's anecdotes, but having spent some years cruising those islands it was, for me at least, an appreciated find. On the same shelf as the Bahamas book was a copy of Captain Wilfred Shawe's <em>Sea of Seas</em> a somewhat scatter-shot book of various sailing voyages around the western Mediterranean. As we have a view of the Mediterranean from the terrace at home the book was a timely find. Last summer before sailing to Port Soller on Majorca's north shore Shawe's book provided us with some background information on our destination. Who knows what you can unearth in the Cemetery of Forgotten Sailing Books?<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><em>All Seasons Yachtsman</em>, Peter J. Haward; <em>Hong Kong-Barcelona en el Junco "Rubia,"</em> José Maria Tey; </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><em>The Cruise of the "Alerte,"</em> E. F. Knight; <em>Deep Water and Shoal</em>, William Albert Robinson; <em>Bahama Islands</em>, J. Linton Rigg; <em>Mischief in Patagonia</em>, H.W. Tilman; <em>Business in Great Waters</em>, Adrian Hayter; <em>Temptress Returns</em>, Edward C. Allcard; <em>Two Girls, Two Catamarans</em>, James Wharram; <em>My Ship is So Small</em>, Ann Davison; <em>The Last Cruise of the Shanghai</em>, F. DeWitt Wells; <em>Trade Winds and Turtles</em>, Dan Mulville; <em>Come Aboard</em>, Eric C. Hiscock; <em>Sunrise to Windward</em>, Miles Smeeton;<em> Single-Handed Passage</em>, Edward C. Allcard; <em>Navegando a los Cuatro Ventos</em>, Hans von Meiss-Teuffen;<em> Around the World in Wanderer III</em>, Eric C. Hiscock; <em>White Cliffs to Coral Reef</em>, William Howell; <em>Road to the Sea</em>, S. E. Bradfield; <em>My Lively Lady</em>, Alec Rose; <em>A World of My Own</em>, Robin Knox-Johnston; <em>Two Against Cape Horn, </em>Hal Roth; <em>Ten Small Yachts, </em>Maurice Griffths; <em>Triumph and Tribulation, </em>H.W. Tilman; <em>The Fight of the Firecrest, </em>Alain Gerbault; <em>Out of Poole,</em> G.C.L. Payne<em>; Around the World Single-Handed, </em>Harry Pidgeon; <em>Journey With Caravel, </em>Fred Carlisle; <em>Mischief Goes South, </em>H.W. Tilman; <em>Sou'West in Wanderer IV, </em>Eric C. Hiscock; <em>Islands Of Blue Water, </em>Keith Robinson; <em>Heaven, Hell and Salt Water, </em>Bill & Phyllis Crowe; <em>Under the Cabin Lamp, </em>Sir Alker Tripp; <em>Sea of Seas, </em>Capt. Wilfred H. Scott Shawe; <em>Stornoway East and West, </em>Marjorie Peterson; <em>Mostly Mischief, </em>H.W. Tilman; <em>La Niña II, Tras el Surco de Colon</em>, Antonio Sagaseta de Ilurdoz; <em>An Ocean to Ourselves, </em>Harold la Borde; <em>Family at Sea, </em>John Caldwell; <em>Atlantic Cruise in Wanderer III, </em>Eric C. Hiscock; <em>Ice Bird, </em>David Lewis; <em>Sea-Saint, </em>Ian Nicolson; <em>In Mischief's Wake, </em>H.W. Tilman; <em>Because the Horn Is There, </em>Miles Smeeton; <em>The Sea is for Sailing, </em>Peter Pye;<em> North Atlantic, </em>Adlard Coles; <em>1700 Miles in Open Boats, </em>Cecil Foster; <em>The Voyage Alone in the Yawl Rob Boy, </em>John MacGregor; <em>Deep Water Cruising, </em>E.G. Martin; <em>Return to the Sea, </em>William Albert Robinson</span>Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-30418674252790894222011-10-01T21:46:00.001+02:002011-12-01T12:30:34.782+01:00Sculling on the Humber River<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwGnJ1SdPor_mwue3nkhzQpUJBoLjSLRXMdPOWc6tSFXIIIZKHvXkjq8UYtFBAhkSxflgtNdMfNVpDFLJvo1y1OX3ZJj9JSFr4Eb_-8LWPSGm6qsqWe4lWnMUnBTUZOsKkyMR3u5G8s4/s1600/Humber+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwGnJ1SdPor_mwue3nkhzQpUJBoLjSLRXMdPOWc6tSFXIIIZKHvXkjq8UYtFBAhkSxflgtNdMfNVpDFLJvo1y1OX3ZJj9JSFr4Eb_-8LWPSGm6qsqWe4lWnMUnBTUZOsKkyMR3u5G8s4/s400/Humber+%25283%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Humber River from an old postcard.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span lang="">In 1972 I took up rowing when I joined the Argonaut Rowing Club of Toronto. At first, I rowed in four- and eight-man crews but I soon learned to scull so that I could row in a single. Normally the Argonaut crews rowed inside the breakwall that runs from Ontario Place to the mouth of the Humber River. Occasionally we took our shells up the Humber as far as the bridges at Bloor Street. The river's sheltered waters are ideal for rowing shells with their low freeboards. Whenever I sculled alone in a skiff the lower Humber became my favourite outing. So seldom did I see other boats, or even see a person on its banks, that I came to regard that stretch of the river as my own. In the summer when the rushes and reeds in the marshes are at their tallest and the trees have leafed out the city disappears behind a green curtain. It is easy to image yourself on a secluded country stream far from the city. Marshes and steep bluffs prevent direct access to most of the lower Humber. Over the years, as I raced up and down the river, I experienced a corner of Toronto's urban wilderness that few of its residents even knew existed. <br />
<br />
Above Bloor Street navigation of the Humber is restricted by a series of rapids and weirs. Three hundred years ago the end of navigable water also marked the start of the Carrying Place portage linking Lake Ontario and Georgian Bay via Lake Simcoe. When I first became acquainted with the Humber I had no idea about the river's historic associations. Later I learned that the lower Humber had seen the passage of Iroquois war parties heading for Huronia, and that French explorers Brule, Joliet, Hennepin and La Salle had very likely used the route. In the 1750s, near the end of the French regime, a trading post was for a short time located on the east bank near the Humber mouth. Later the same site became the home of one of Toronto's first European settlers. On the east bank a little way to the north of Bloor Street in the neighbourhood now known as Baby Point stood the Seneca village of Teiaigon. It would have been an almost idyllic place with ready access to the river and Lake Ontario a few minutes away. <br />
<br />
Between Lake Ontario and Bloor Street the river is divided into five relatively straight sections, varying in length from 300 to 450 metres for a total of about 2 kilometres. Comparing maps from the 1700s and 1800s with modern ones demonstrates that the lower Humber has not altered its course significantly since that time. When I first started with the rowing club we used to row on the river in fours and eights but the bends were difficult to negotiate in the longer boats. On the other hand a single sculler could easily steer round the bends with little fuss. In the early 1980s the officials of the rowing club, after a series of accidents, decided that the fours and eights should stay out of the Humber. For the single scullers the river became even more isolated and uncrowded.<br />
<br />
Occasionally a power boat would appear on the Humber. There is even a power boat yacht club on the river near Bloor Street. The members of the Humber Yacht Club were generally considerate with their wakes when passing a shell careful not to swamp it. However, there were other power boaters who insisted on roaring up the river causing disruptive wakes. Once, as I rounded a bend on the river I was surprised to see a power boat racing toward me. As the boat rounded the bend I looked up at the underside of the banking hull and hoped that it did not side slip and hit me. Fortunately, he had room enough as I had been hugging the shore. The driver did not see me until his boat had leveled out on the straightaway and he happened to look back. It is not likely that he heard my comments over the roar of his engine.<br />
<br />
From time to time a police boat would make its way up the Humber. One afternoon I was returning downstream when one of the aluminum riggers of my skiff cracked. I managed to stay upright and maneuvered the boat to shore without capsizing. There was no way of rowing the boat with the cracked rigger without causing more damage. Earlier I had seen a police launch go up river so I waited for it to return. When the launch came round the bend I asked the two constables if they could call the rowing club to send a motor boat to pick me up. The officers offered to load the skiff aboard their launch. I readily accepted and rode back to the club in style. The police launch was one of the old wooden hull patrol boats from the 1920s that I had admired for years.<br />
<br />
Curiously, prior to the mid-1980s I rarely saw canoes and kayaks on the Humber even though the Humber Marshes are ideal for exploring in such craft. Canoeists simply did not consider it worth their while to spend time on a river running through a major urban area. I have to attribute this lack of interest in the Humber to the generally poor reputation the Great Lakes and their associated waters had after the 1960s. Great Lakes pollution levels seemed to peak in the early-1970s. Sometimes the pollution was very evident in the form of garbage floating in midstream or thrown up on the banks. At other times it could be a slick of oil floating on the surface. In the aftermath of heavy rains the amount of debris on the Humber was revolting. The ubiquitous shopping carts always puzzled me. Why would anyone push one down to the water only to toss it into the river? While I can only give an opinion based on my observations and impressions, the water quality on the Humber did seem to improve between 1972 and the late 1990s. It took a long time for the general public to realise it. Meanwhile, the quantity of wildlife that I saw, including birds, fish and mammals, seemed also to increase over that period. Rowing shells are unotrusive, making little noise and are excellent platforms for observing wildlife. The drawback is that you approach everything going backwards.<br />
<br />
The bird life on the Humber could be spectacular at times. The birds one normally saw included night herons, great blue herons, red-wing blackbirds, mute swans, Canada geese, mallard ducks and crows. I once saw a pheasant on one of the low wooded banks. Prior to the early 1980s the cormorant was a bird that I never saw but gradually they became more common. Their presence would seem to indicate that the population of forage fish was increasing. Of course there were often seagulls on the river. Great black backed gulls were sometimes seen feeding on a dead salmon or carp. Throughout the summer a small group of Caspian terns would sit on the section of the breakwall just at the mouth of the Humber. The night herons sitting on low branches that hung low over the water could sometimes be counted in the dozens. <br />
<br />
On the east bank of the third bend there is a steep sand bluff from which a number of trees used to cling to. I recall rowing past one day and seeing that some of the trees had fallen into the river. When the tree roots had pulled out of the bluff they left holes. Within a few days the holes had been occupied by nesting barn swallows. Their nests were inaccessible to even the most determined raccoon. All that summer the river valley was alive with swallows swooping and diving.<br />
<br />
All along the Toronto waterfront a tremendous increase in the Canada geese population occurred during the 1970s and every spring the Humber would be packed with goslings and their parents. In the 1990s I noticed that the numbers of geese declined. I can only attribute the decline to the appearance of a pair of nesting mute swans. Despite their stately appearance, I am ambivalent about these very territorial birds. Mute swans are non-native but also very aggressive towards other water fowl, hence the decrease in geese. The pair usually built their nest in the marshes along the second straightaway. Several times I was subjected to feint attacks by the males. The swan would fly toward me along the length of a straightaway as I rowed along. With my hands occupied with the sculls, all I could do was watch helplessly as the huge bird rushed toward me. I had no idea what it was going to do but as it got to within 20 meters of the stern of the skiff the swan settled on the water while slapping its feet on the water, its neck outstrectced and threatening. The bird continued to approach until it lunged with its bill at the stern of the skiff. The bird is very powerful and can, at least, inflict a painful bite. Presumably, the swans viewed scullers with their oars sweeping back and forth as some sort of giant waterfowl that had to be challenged. <br />
<br />
The mammals present along the river were more wary of humans than the birds. It was common to see beaver, muskrat, raccoons and the odd fox. I started observing beaver in the late 70s. I would some times see them swimming across the river astern of my shell or waddling along the shore. The beavers often left evidence of their presence on the trees that they were cutting. Raccoons were fairly common but they presumably had an easier time scavenging amongst the houses that back on to the Humber ravine. Foxes are of course much rarer, at least warier, but they were sometimes visible at the water's edge.<br />
<br />
From a rowing shell the fish life is harder to appreciate. The water of the river is typically a chocolate-milk brown and it is difficult to see fish. Sometimes as one sculled along watching the shell's wake and the pairs of swirls made by the oars a third swirl would mysteriously appear. It would be the result of some fish approaching the hull and suddenly turning away and stirring the water. In the spring rainbow trout make their runs upstream from Lake Ontario. In the fall Chinook and coho salmon, both non-native and stocked in the lake, make their runs up the Humber. The Humber has some very large carp, some weighing up to 30 pounds, and they spawn in the marshes. <br />
<br />
The reason the scullers were on the Humber River was to train for races. And, it is a great place to train. The layout of the river allowed for various types of workouts. Sometimes I would row steady state pieces keeping at a constant rate and pressure, make a quick turn at the top of the river and head back to the mouth. Depending on how many trips you made you could easily build up the mileage. Sometimes I put in all-out sprints on the straightaways and then eased off going round the turns. The calm waters made it an ideal place to work on improving sculling technique. On the second straightway, which is more than 450 metres long and wide enough, two scullers could race side by side.<br />
<br />
Occasionally on Saturday mornings 15 or 20 Argonaut scullers would meet up just below the Bloor Street bridges and race all the way back to the rowing club. It was a seven-kilometre long workout and it called for good judgement and skill to negogiate the river bends while racing. On those days the procession of scullers would pass for what would be considered heavy traffic on the Humber. Then there was always the problem of water conditions at the Humber mouth. It could get pretty rough for a rowing shell where the river current meets the swell from the lake. Until you had reached the protection of the breakwall you could expect to get wet and bounced about.<br />
<br />
It has been so long since I last sculled on the lower Humber that I can no longer think of it as my preserve but other scullers have now made it their own. In addition to the Argonauts a number of other scullers now keep their shells at the Humber Yacht Club. It is an appropriate development as the quiet waters of the river are more suitable for sculling than for power boats. Perhaps a new Toronto rowing club will emerge from this association. From what I have heard and read the Humber's water quality continues to improve. I recently read that Atlantic salmon, which had been extirpated in the 1880s from Lake Ontario, had in 2011 been reintroduced into the Humber. It is long overdue but perhaps it had to wait until water quality had improved sufficiently. Toronto is fortunate that it has such a river running through it.</span>Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-13879073145073710792011-06-21T14:27:00.002+02:002011-10-01T22:08:05.447+02:00The Barcelona of the Brangulís - A Photographic Exhibition<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8DQWrLPPBN_IavWOWLfk8NcScxIiJw1FdOldH3TavodgQ2K8oGlxDZ-j_XR2q1vgPydElHjK89XituFaPwiby85x-PN4EuaqLOjSuODrLLw11F7NJfJ5lnudxJ8ZcilIkrEn_KDsrHk/s1600/interirors_construccio_1_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8DQWrLPPBN_IavWOWLfk8NcScxIiJw1FdOldH3TavodgQ2K8oGlxDZ-j_XR2q1vgPydElHjK89XituFaPwiby85x-PN4EuaqLOjSuODrLLw11F7NJfJ5lnudxJ8ZcilIkrEn_KDsrHk/s400/interirors_construccio_1_.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Fons Brangulí/National Archives of Catalonia (ANC)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The start of Josep Brangulí i Soler's (1879-1945) career as a photo-journalist coincided with the social and political upheavals in Barcelona that resulted in Setmana Tragica (Tragic Week) during the summer of 1909. Brugulí seems to have missed out on the actual rioting but he was certainly on hand to record the aftermath of the disturbances that inflamed the Catalan capital--the burnt out churches, monasteries and convents, and the street barricades made up of cobble stones. However, over the next 35 years or so Brangulí, and later in collaboration with two of his sons, produced a priceless photographic record of a city convulsed by tremendous events; the city under the first dictatorship, the rise of the Catalan middle class, the coming of the Second Republic, the civil war and finally the defeated Barcelona. Brangulí also recorded the more mundane everyday happenings that make a city work; workers at their trades, policemen investigating crime scenes, bored salesmen selling their wares at trade fairs, pupils at their desks and politicians speaking at meetings. By the time Josep Brangulí's career and life ended in 1945, Barcelona was an occupied city waiting for its long ascent to begin but fortunately for those of us interested in the city's history, his two sons were there to carry on.<br />
<br />
Three hundred photographs are on display in an exhibition entitled <em>Brangulí - Barcelona 1909-1945</em> at the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB). The curators, Valentin Vallhonrat and Rafael Levenfeld, have selected from a collection of almost a million images that the Generalitat de Catalunya (the Catalan government) purchased from the Brangulí family several years ago. The contribution to the collection by the two sons, Joaquim and Xavier, is not insignificant however, approximately half of the archive, and most of the exhibit, can be attributed to the senior Brangulí. The collection, now in the possession of the National Archives of Catalonia (ANC) is, for students of Barcelona's troubled history, an invaluable resource.<br />
<br />
To have lived in Barcelona during the first half of the 20th century was like riding a roller coaster with no sense of how it would all end up. Many European cities suffered the same sort of breathless excess of destabilizing events. Think of Paris and Berlin, two cities whose highs and lows are well know to English audiences because of the many American and English journalists, writers and artists who told of their experiences. However, Barcelona in the first half of the 20th century was never exposed to the Anglo-Saxon world in a way that Madrid was, and it remains a mystery world to many foreigners. Although, that has changed in the last twenty years as the city has become a major tourist destination. To put the Brangulí exhibit in context it helps to learn beforehand some of Barcelona and Catalonia's history.<br />
<br />
Fortunately, Brangulí and his sons provide us with images of those events. Later when the three Brangulís worked together it was not always possible to attribute a specific photograph to any one of them. As Josep started his career he worked for newspapers, magazines and commercial clients. Everyday street scenes in the Barri Gotic reveal that not much has changed except that in the 1920s some of the neighbourhood children were better dressed than those of today, there was less laundry hanging on the balconies and there were no gawking tourists. A number of photographs focus on the architectural aspects of city. At one time Josep Brangulí worked for Construcciones y Pavimentos, a firm that pioneered reinforced concrete structures. The company's buildings appealed to Josep Brangulí's sense of order with their precise clean lines. Few of the early Brangulí images capture any sort of spontaneity or movement, he preferred to have his subjects line up and solemnly face the camera. Arguably it was partly a function of the technical difficulties attributed to working in low-light situations. Even the crowds in his images of political meetings and assemblies seem to have stopped as he took his photographs. The later images have more of a sense of movement, the photographs more spontaneous but perhaps those were the work of the two younger Brangulís--it is impossible to tell who took a specific photograph.<br />
<br />
The star of this exhibit is Barcelona during a period when it was convulsed by tremendous social and political upheavals. The clash of classes, the riots, huge public funerals and the political demonstrations provided much street theatre. The rise of the middle class and a more liberal society after the proclamation of the second republic in 1931 and contrasting that with the aftermath of the civil war and the stifling effects of the church and the Flange on Catalan society, make for at times an almost surrealist history. Throughout it all the Brangulis were able to remain apolitical. Among the papers in the exhibition is a less passe issued to the senior Branguli by the Partit Obrer d'Unifacacio Marxista (POUM) five days after the start of the civil war allowing him to ply his trade unhindered. On the other hand, in 1939 the Brangulis, unhindered in their work, were there to photograph the fifth columnists celebrating the "liberation" of Barcelona by the Nationalists.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2ITaQup5QuO8eHDUy3HGEU2DwE3tOeLxHLpQtVDC8091FR6RzFnLaKTjCfmiCkQcTSXHlCAyFhEgv2dR9Z7QG7BoOUKaEaJN2wzZZDBW6_oCvFBlK7-uiOSH-eN3WzYNjvgK_gEW0s6M/s1600/artesans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2ITaQup5QuO8eHDUy3HGEU2DwE3tOeLxHLpQtVDC8091FR6RzFnLaKTjCfmiCkQcTSXHlCAyFhEgv2dR9Z7QG7BoOUKaEaJN2wzZZDBW6_oCvFBlK7-uiOSH-eN3WzYNjvgK_gEW0s6M/s400/artesans.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fons Brangulí/National Archives of Catalonia (ANC)</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
The period after the civil war provides the exhibit with several incongruous images. The image of F.C. Barcelona's players lined up at centre field with arms extended in the Fascist salute will surprise the club's traditionally anti-fascist supporters. A pair of images of a smiling Heinrich Himmler being welcomed with flowers at Barcelona's el Prat airport in 1940 raises eyebrows. (Himmler was on his way to the abbey of Montserrat on his alleged quest for the Holy Grail.) The swastika banners draping the front of a building in the Parc de la Cituadella are disconcerting when one realises that nowadays the same building houses the Catalan Parliament, but in 1941 it housed an exhibition of modern German architecture. More bizarre are the images of prisoner exchanges during WWII between the Nazis and Allies conducted in the port of Barcelona. In the foreground of one photograph, two Nazi officers, heavily bemedaled and elaborately uniformed, chat amiably while a few steps away in the background a group of Australian soldiers complete with slough hats talk amongst themselves oblivious of the officers, it looks like a lunch break on a Hollywood film set. Photographs from 1941 of Spanish workers with their families to see them off from Estacio Franca on the way to industrial jobs in Germany makes one wonder how many of them returned home.<br />
<br />
The principal fault of the exhibition is that while the curators have let the photographs speak for themselves we learn little of the three photographers. Most of what we do learn is related is in the form of identity cards and passes but no commentary. I image that the Brangulis, to survive from dictatorship to republic and back again to dictatorship, had to keep their thoughts and opinions to themselves, but it would be interesting to know more about the men especially of Josep. Aficionados of Barcelona's history will leave the exhibit wanting to see more photographs. Fortunately, now that the collection resides permanently in Catalonia we can expect more exhibits like this.<br />
<br />
<em><span style="font-size: x-small;">(Brangulí - Barcelona 1909-1945, at the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona, from June 8 to October 23, 2011)</span></em>Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-62031165319215530752011-05-30T14:41:00.003+02:002011-06-03T11:50:31.710+02:00Rowing Machine - The Sport of Rowing and East Germany's Legacy <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjQc77NkM6ljLPiwhyphenhyphenAReZ_eREk946hu4DtDVUBAbMuoJFVFRRBvrQsqJSAAwZhOQAAeyfEzpPsKxPqY5OyfMmHR11pkaQaSJwWU7JnHUtXkFE_ziqZTsTgcLLnVJlTaNcZxNIU55Kcro/s1600/pairsfinal1968mexico.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjQc77NkM6ljLPiwhyphenhyphenAReZ_eREk946hu4DtDVUBAbMuoJFVFRRBvrQsqJSAAwZhOQAAeyfEzpPsKxPqY5OyfMmHR11pkaQaSJwWU7JnHUtXkFE_ziqZTsTgcLLnVJlTaNcZxNIU55Kcro/s400/pairsfinal1968mexico.jpg" t8="true" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The final of the straight-pair event at the 1968 Mexico City Olympics. With 11 metres to<br />
go (note the last row of buoys before the finish line) the United States and East Germany<br />
are even, but with the latter crew having the momentum. Photo United Press International</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <span style="font-size: x-large;">T</span>here was an air of expectancy at the Xochimilco course on the last day of rowing competition at the 1968 Mexico Olympics. It seemed that the United States was about to regain its supremacy as the top rowing nation. The 1960s had been a tough decade for American rowing, but at Xochimilco the U.S. squad had qualified a crew in each final--something no other nation had ever done. The Americans were expected to medal in several events, including the straight pair, the coxed four and the eight. By the end of racing that Saturday afternoon under the brilliant Mexican sun, a rowing powerhouse had stepped forward. But it was not the United States.<br />
<br />
An indication of what was to be came early in the race program when the American crew considered to have the best shot at a gold medal, the straight pair of Lawrence Hough and Philip "Tony" Johnson, took to the water. Although slow off the start, they were fourth at the half-way mark, the Americans moved into the lead in the second half. In the last 500 metres Hough and Johnson, rowing in lane four, poured it on and had open water with 150 metres to go. Lurking in lane one was a crew that had been almost forgotten by the Americans. Unexpectedly, in the last 500 metres that crew made a challenge for the lead. Somehow, in the last strokes of the race, the pair of Jörg Lucke and Heinz-Jürgen Bothe of the German Democratic Republic (GDR), or East Germany, put on a desperate sprint. In the rarefied high-altitude air of Mexico City, it took remarkable effort. Lucke and Bothe´s finishing kick closed the open water with the Americans and then some. With 10 metres to go the two crews were even, but the East Germans had the momentum. At the finish they nipped the Americans by 0.15 of a second. <br />
<br />
The Americans were stunned, but so were the East Germans. The GDR celebrated its first ever Olympic gold medal. Later that afternoon, a second GDR crew won the straight-four final. The crew of Frank Forberger, Dieter Grahn, Frank Ruhle and Dieter Schubert remains one of the most successful crews ever. When in 1972 the same four won their second Olympic gold medal and retired, they had been undefeated for six years and had won two world championships and two European championships. These two East German crews heralded the start of a rowing dynasty like no other, and one unlikely to be equalled. That afternoon in Mexico the GDR's coxed four added a third medal, a silver. With those three medals it was East Germany that dominated the 1968 Olympic rowing regatta.<br />
<br />
The success of East German crews between 1965 and 1991 was phenomenal. They won 48 Olympic medals, 33 of them gold, to say nothing of their world and European championship medals. In the same period, American rowing managed just 17 Olympic medals. (The GDR boycotted the 1984 games while the US did the same at the 1980 games.) At international regattas throughout the 1970s and 80s, competitors viewed East German rowers with awe and trepidation. Then came the whispers of drug use. "As athletes, we were aware of the possibility of drugs," says an American oarswoman who raced against GDR scullers in the 1970s, "but we were more in awe of the machine."<br />
<br />
On the water, the GDR crews and scullers were a pleasure to watch with their flawless technique and precise bladework. "There was an elegance to their rowing, yet it was powerful," says Fred Loek, who coached several scullers who went up against the East Germans. "They didn't invent anything new; they went back to basics," recalls Loek, "and they understood that mileage makes champions. They did massive mileage and paid close attention to technique, especially the bladework." East German crews rowed with a distinctive style that emphasized layback and an acutely curved back at the finish. "They developed amazing length in the water," says Loek, "the change in direction at either end was seamless. They rowed with monster rigs, heavily loaded with short inboards."<br />
<br />
Off the water, the East German athletes generally kept to themselves, on orders from their handlers. The Stasi, the secret police that followed them about, wanted to minimise the risk of defections. East German oarsmen and oarswomen seldom attended the post-regatta get-togethers. Their white singlets with the diagonal stripes of the national colours were the most sought-after trades, and the most difficult to acquire. It has been more than 20 years since the much maligned and detested regime imploded after the fall of the Berlin Wall, yet mention "East Germany" and "rowing" in the same sentence amongst rowing people and you have an audience. The legacy of that rowing program continues to influence the sport to this day.<br />
<br />
Behind the superb GDR crews and scullers was a system that left as little as possible to chance. Perhaps they did revolutionise rowing but attention to detail was what made GDR rowing so successful. Every aspect of rowing was studied and examined. For example, after it was learned that the Île Notre Dame rowing basin in Montreal would be shallower than FISA's (the International Rowing Association) minimum depth, the GDR's Institut fur Forschung und Entwicklung von Sportgeraten (FES) designed new eights especially for the course. The new rowing shells were successful as the East Germans won both the men's and women's eights at the 1976 Montreal Olympics. FES looked at equipment for all sports but was run by an oarsman, Klaus Filter. Up until the 1960s rowing shells had for a century more or less evolved empirically but for the scientists and engineers at FES that process was not good enough. Under the leadership of Filter, FES ran the most elaborate testing facilities in the world, including a 285-metre tank for testing rowing shells. Today, Filter still designs hulls for various rowing shell builders around the world.<br />
<br />
The creation of the East German sports system was a decision taken at the highest level of government and it played an important political function. The Communist Party's executive committee, or Politburo, wanted nothing less than international dominance of sport. The task was assigned to the Deutsche Turn und Sportbund (DTSB), the governing sports body of the GDR. Following World War II, Germany was divided into a democratic west and a communist east. The East German government became a pawn of the Soviet Union, which opposed unification of the two Germanys. Despite the political separation, the two Germanys were forced by the International Olympic Committee (IOC) to field a single team at international sporting events. Throughout the 1950s and most of the 60s the much larger West German team dominated the combined team to the detriment of East German athletes. It was not until 1965 that the IOC allowed the two Germanys to field separate teams. By then the East German government viewed success in the sports arena as an effective propaganda tool in order to promote communism, to gain acceptance for itself on the world stage, and to upstage West Germany.<br />
<br />
In order to achieve those goals, the GDR promoted a massive and unprecedented research program into all aspects of sports, including training methods, medical support, talent identification, and equipment. The majority of these efforts led to legitimate advances in sports, but there was a dark side. The medical research wandered into the murky field of drugs and doping to enhance athletic performance. However, the GDR athletes were not the first to use drugs to improve performance. It had long been known that individual athletes throughout the world took performance enhancing drugs. There were many instances throughout the 20th century, especially in endurance sports, where athletes had used some drug or other. What was different in the case of the GDR was that drug use had the full backing of the state. At first doping involved a few track and field athletes who were given various pills. The athletes were usually told that they were taking dietary supplements and vitamins.<br />
<br />
By the time of the 1976 Montreal Olympics, drug use and doping were systematic and widespread at the elite levels of practically all GDR sports teams. The dramatic success that year of the East German women in the swimming pool was perhaps what most raised suspicions of the west. Years later, the negative health effects directly attributed to the use of steroids tragically confirmed those concerns. After the demise of the GDR, it became apparent how widespread the drug use and doping had been. The Stasi had maintained elaborate records on every athlete including their drug and doping regimes. Some of the records were deliberately destroyed in 1989, but enough survived to be used in post-unification German courts to convict various individuals. It is inconceivable that any elite level coach or administrator--including those responsible for rowing--did not know what was going on. On the other hand, not one East German athlete ever tested positive at an international competition. There is no doubt that the East German crews when compared to their competition were the best prepared.<br />
<br />
The East Germans approached sport as no other nation had ever done before. Nothing was left to chance. Every aspect of a sport was looked into and studied. This included physiology, psychology, bio-mechanics, nutrition and equipment. The training methods developed by the East German rowing coaches, emphasising high-volume low-rate work contrasted with the intense interval training in vogue in the West for much of the 1960s and 70s. The East German coaches had solid research results to back that approach. The selecting of individuals and formation of crews was based on a sophisticated process than involved methods of analysis and testing unheard of in the West. The East Germans found that it was better to monitor training intensity and loading by using blood-lactate levels instead of heart rate and V02 max uptake levels. The East Germans studied the bio-mechanics of the sport, developed principles and then strictly applied what they had learned. <br />
<br />
It would be misleading to portray the whole East German sports system as solely aimed at amassing the greatest number of gold medals at the Olympics and world championships. The system had another side; 'Sport for the masses' was more than just a slogan. Ernst Herberger, author of the classic rowing textbook <em>Rudern</em> wrote in the book's introduction that the principal objective of rowing in East Germany was "the achievement of high performance in competitive rowing for men, women, and youth, based on a wide membership, on a comprehensive and systematic basic training, and on a party and class-conscious education of the oarsman into a socialist sports personality." The words sound as if uttered by some party bureaucrat but there was a broad cross-section--a wide membership--of rowers. Despite the occasional lecturing on socialism, and the obviously dated technical sections on rigging and equipment,<em> Rudern</em> remains a must-read for serious students of the sport.<br />
<br />
People of all ages, from children to seniors, were encouraged to participate in the sport of their choice. At their height in the 1980s, the various sports clubs of the GDR had more than three million members out of a population of 17 million. The DTSB supported the whole effort by training coaches--there were more than 700 full-time rowing coaches. It also organized sporting events at various levels of competition. It is important to note that the whole system had grassroots appeal. Any fees to join or support clubs were nominal. Young children were encouraged to participate in various sports in order to develop their motor and social skills. "Sport was considered a society-supporting activity," says former GDR oarsman Jahnich Hagen, "and hence was very much supported politically. It got me a few days off at school in order to go racing."<br />
<br />
Hagen rowed in the GDR from 1975 to 1990. "I was nine years old when they found me," he says, referring to the system of talent identification ever on the lookout for a potential Olympian. "From the first day on, there was solid centralized technical coaching and fitness training. From age 12, I did five sessions per week. From ages 13 to 14, we were assessed for the sports schools," Hagen says. "I was one of the fittest but too small to be selected for the schools." Those who were accepted to the specialized sports schools had their schooling and, later, their university or work careers built around their training--the sports schools continue to operate in the unified Germany. On most days three training sessions were held and there was very little time off. Sports medicine solidly supported the training. "A common rowing technique was taught and any advances were pushed through centrally," Hagen recounts. "That meant that I could jump into a boat with someone coached by another coach 200 kilometres away and be competitive after one outing. I've done that a few times and won." East Germany did not field non-Olympic classes at international events and as a lightweight Hagen did not get the elite level support. In 1990 Hagen and his partner became the last ever GDR national champions in the lightweight double.<br />
<br />
"The success of GDR rowing and sport in general," says Hagen, "was based on a broad selection, perfect training facilities, professional coaching for practically everybody, a solid scientific base for technique, training methods, nutrition, proper medical backup, and a quite brutal but focused selection process." That might sound familiar today for anyone trying out for a seat in a boat, but in the 1970s it was unique in its scope. At the higher levels coaches undertook a five-year degree at the Deutsche Hochschule fur Korperkultur (DHfK), the German College of Physical Culture, in Leipzig. The DHfK became the foremost centre for research in sports in the world and a model for a number of subsequent facilities around the world. The success of East German sports attracted the attention of other nations.<br />
<br />
During the 1970s, countries with strong rowing traditions and backgrounds like Canada and Australia realised that they had been left behind. At the 1976 Olympics neither country won a rowing medal. In fact, neither country won a gold in any sport. The two countries rowing associations persisted in their use of narrowly defined amateur athletes. Sending club crews to international events was no longer enough to even reach an Olympic final. Something had to change and because of its success East Germany became the model to follow. And, this is the point where the GDR's influence began to be felt and it continues to this day, at least as far as rowing is concerned. Obviously, it was impossible to emulate the GDR system in democratic societies but to match their performance officials in other countries thought that some elements of the system could be copied.<br />
<br />
In Canada´s case, modest government funding starting in the 1970s enabled elite athletes to spend more time training. Although some of the Canadian crews at the 1976 Olympics had been assembled from selected individuals the national team concept was in its first stages. At the same time, the Canadian rowing association set out to improve the level of coaching at all levels. This lead to the creation of a coaching certification program supported with the diffusion of technical information through the use of manuals and coaching clinics. An effort was made to promote a uniform rowing technique that would facilitate the formation of national team crews. The Canadian rowing association decided to use East German crews as models--the pair of the Landvoigt brothers, and scullers Christine Scheiblich and Joachim Dreifke. "The models were meant to be used as guiding lights," says Al Morrow, current coach of the Canadian women's national squad, "and not to be copied slavishly. The models served their purpose and eventually the manuals were updated and new models promoted." The updated manuals eventually featured Canadian stars like Derek Porter and Marnie McBean. Gradually crews came to be made up of oarsmen and oarswomen selected on the basis on their individual performance and technique.<br />
<br />
Australia has long tradition of excellence in sport, so when that nation´s international performances declined in the 1960s and 70s, public pressure forced the government to act. A commission studied the problem and recommended the establishment of a national institute similar to the GDR´s DHfK. In 1981, the Australian Institute of Sport (AIS) opened its doors to provide athletes with elite-level coaching, first-class training facilities, and complete medical support. At the end of the decade, the GDR´s Dr Theo Koerner was hired for six months to help prepare the rowing team for the 1990 world championships which Australia hosted at Lake Barrington. With Korner's guidance, Australian rowing made its great leap forward. The Australians had their best results ever at a world championship regatta, winning a gold, a silver, and two bronze medals. Coincidentally, it was the last international regatta for East Germany before reunification, and they still dominated the heavyweight events, taking 11 medals.<br />
<br />
In the 1960s and 70s, the Americans were ahead of most western countries in their methods of selecting crews for the Olympics but nowhere near what the East Germans could do. In the second half of the 1960s most US crews were made up of individuals selected on the basis of seat racing and the subjective eye of the coaching team. However, even with a large pool of mostly college oarsmen to select from, the Americans had limited success at the international regattas. Occasional testing of the American squad for VO2 uptake on clunky rowing machines was crude compared to what the East German coaches had available to them. The highlight of American rowing, and perhaps western rowing, during the 1970s was the men's eight at the 1974 World championships won by the Americans with Great Britain and New Zealand trailing. The three English-speaking nations beating the East Germans on emotion, pride and guts--not something to be discounted in sports. <br />
<br />
Today, rowing continues to be influenced by what the East German sports system achieved. That influence is perhaps most felt in coaching and training. One of the most exciting and closest races at the 2004 Athens Olympics was the hard-fought straight fours final in which the "Pinsent Four" of Great Britain squeaked past the Canadian crew. The story for the lay media was Matthew Pinsent's fourth Olympic gold medal. However, it is interesting to note that the British crew was coached by former East German coach Jürgen Grobler. For Grobler the Athens race was his15th Olympic gold as a coach since his first at the 1972 Munich Games. Grobler had moved to Great Britain in 1991, showing up at the doorstep of Leander Boat Club where he coached the pair of Steve Redgrave and Pinsent. At first the two Englishmen were very skeptical of Grobler's methods. Using the principles and techniques developed in East Germany he had them rowing very high mileages but at low rates in order to build an solid aerobic base. Redgrave in particular grumbled, but the pair found success, culminating in the gold at the 1992 Barcelona Games. Grobler's success represents the continuing influence of the GDR sports machine on rowing long after the demise of the system. Late in 2004, Grobler reportedly turned down an offer from China to head its rowing program in the lead up to the 2008 Beijing Olympics.<br />
<br />
Considering the numbers of coaches, administrators, and athletes the GDR produced relatively few are still involved at the elite level. "Many former East German people had a hard time surviving without the whole system behind them," says Jim Joy, a veteran of the international coaching scene. "Guys like Grobler made the adjustment. The East German coaches worked within a system that supported them in their work." Obviously the best survived but without the system many of them could not continue. The reunited Germany may have reaped the most benefits of the GDR legacy. Jutta Lau headed the German women's sculling program for 24 years. Under Lau, twice an Olympic champion herself and FISA Coach of the Year in 2001, German women scullers have been the most successful in the world over the last 15 years. In early 2010, Lau took over as head coach of the Chinese women's sculling team and it will be interesting to see how that program fares.<br />
<br />
One of the first East German coaches to come over to the west after 1990 was Harmut Buschbacher who took over as head coach of the United States women´s national team. He spent nine years with the US program before moving on to China for a couple of years. Buschbacher has now returned to Germany where he hopes to revive that nation´s rowing program after its dismal results at the Beijing Olympics. Another former East German coach, Lothar Trawiel, directs the German male scullers. Harald Jahrling was head coach of the Australian women's program until he became embroiled in the "Lay Down Sally" affair. Jahrling, twice an Olympic champion and now an Australian citizen, later spent some time coaching in Ireland and more recently in Belgium. Another East German who had great influence on a particular national rowing program was Eberhard Mund. With the fall of the Berlin Wall Mund promptly left for France where he ran the national team from 1990 to 2002. In France Mund, like Grobler in Great Britain, was faced with incredulous oarsmen who did not believe that the low-rate high-mileage formula could work. Under Mund, the French national team picked up four Olympic medals in 1996 and three in 2000. Mund's influence continues to this day.<br />
<br />
There was always an air of secrecy behind East German rowing and some things don´t seem to change. Some of the former East German coaches continued to operate as if they were still working under the old GDR system and maintained their secretive and autocratic ways. Take for example the Konstanz Rowing Symposium, the largest rowing conference in Germany held every other year where coaches give their views on technique and training. The audiences are of mostly German speakers--Germans, Swiss and Austrians. Among the coaches who had been invited to one event was Lothar Traweil. "At one symposium some years ago he was not willing to give any secrets to coaches of other countries," says Volker Nolte, assistant professor and coach at the University of Western Ontario and a former West German national-team oarsman. The mentality of secrecy manifests itself in other ways, according to Nolte. "If you examine the official rowing magazine of the German rowing association you will not find scientific or technical articles," says Nolte, "and there haven't been since about 1990 although prior to that the magazine was for decades the leading publication for technical rowing articles."<br />
<br />
More than ever, technical information is shared across borders, and training methods are discussed at international conferences. Coaches move about from program to program and rarely does one country outrun the rest for long. The success of the East German rowing program remains unmatched, and is unlikely to be repeated--but who knows. Yes there was a dark side to the whole system but it also produced legitimate technical and scientific advances that continue to influence rowing programs everywhere in the world. In 2003 several Canadian national team coaches including Al Morrow attended a coaches conference in China. Morrow had the opportunity to speak to the coach of the Chinese women's eight that put in a credible performance at the world championships that year, winning the B Final. When Morrow asked his host about the average age of the crew, he was told it was 21, with the stroke the youngest at 18. "What are their occupations?" Morrow asked. "Students, students of rowing," answered the Chinese coach. The oarswomen were full-time athletes fully supported by the state for the benefit of the state. "It's the closest thing to the East German system that I've seen in recent years," says Morrow, "and we're going to see the results in 2008." In fact, the rowing regatta at the Beijing Olympics must have been disappointing for the Chinese. They were fifth in the medal ranking behind Great Britain, Australia, Canada and the United States, all countries that had learned from the East German rowing program.<br />
<br />
<em>(Adapted from an article I wrote for the Rowing News in 2005)</em>Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-43534928703411275182011-05-16T22:08:00.001+02:002013-01-14T00:28:10.592+01:00The Black Canyon of the Gunnison<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.nps.gov/blca/photosmultimedia/upload/blca_paintedwall01a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" j8="true" src="http://www.nps.gov/blca/photosmultimedia/upload/blca_paintedwall01a.jpg" width="504" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Painted Wall, Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Photo National Park Service, Lisa Lynch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On the way out of Hotchkiss we stopped at a 7-Eleven for gas and snacks before hitting the road. The young man behind the counter could not place our Canadian accents until we told him. He seemed surprised. Not many foreigners pass through Hotchkiss, a Colorado town that really is off the beaten path. The town is lost in the southwest corner of the state serving the local ranches and farms. As we made some small talk, he asked us if we had seen the Black Canyon. The Black Canyon? Never heard of it. What was it? Where was it? There’s nothing like it in all the world he insisted and it was less than a half-hour drive from Hotchkiss. He gave us directions, warning that the posted signs could be misleading. Well, why not? We were wandering around western Colorado on a week-long road trip without any real itinerary, so off we went to find the Black Canyon.<br />
<br />
That part of Colorado is marked by gently rolling and low widely spaced hills, wide open country with a few farms and ranches scattered amongst huge fields of grass. There is the odd tree here and there, just enough to break the skylines. It was also a land of beef cattle. To the west, in the distance and just visible through the low haze, were the Rocky Mountains. We followed the directions taking state highway 92 south to the even smaller town of Crawford and turned onto North Rim Road. A few miles beyond the turn-off the pavement stopped and we went on over hard packed gravel. Once through Crawford the landscape changed to open range. No fences, no trees and no grass, just wide open expanses of low hills covered in sage bush.<br />
<br />
North Rim Road ran parallel to the dried river bed of Grizzly Gulch. The smell of sage came through the open windows. At one point we had to stop to allow some cows to cross the road. A huge bull on an overlooking ridge gazed down on his domain. Twenty kilometres of gravel road, more sage bush, fewer cows but still no Black Canyon. At last we came to a T-junction and a sign gave us the choice of going either right of left. We chose left, drove another kilometre and parked at a sign marked “the Narrows View.” A footpath disappeared into the sage bushes and under the stunted oak trees. A few steps from the car brought us to a sight so compelling and unexpected that we could hardly believe it was real. At our feet was an immense gash in the earth hundreds of metres deep. The Black Canyon is a rent so deep, narrow and shear that no other geological feature in North America can compare to it.<br />
<br />
We stood at the edge of the precipice trying to take in the view and make sense of it. About a kilometre away was the south rim of the canyon but it seemed much further. More than a half a kilometre below us, the Gunnison River snaked through a narrow channel cut through the ancient rock. In places the river squeezes between rock walls only metres apart. The depth of the canyon within the protected area of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park averages over 500 metres but it seems much deeper. The aptly named Painted Wall is a sheer rock face more than 670 metres high. Contributing to the grandeur of the canyon is its relative narrowness. The Gunnison itself is a wild river full of raging rapids and falls interspersed with quiet pools. The trout fishing is said to be very good, if you can reach the river.<br />
<br />
A number of side canyons make it possible to reach the bottom of the main canyon on foot. A descent into the canyon while not requiring special climbing equipment will take at least an hour and a half. Some nerve is also required. The routes down into the canyon are steep and a lot of clambering is required. The return ascent will take three or four hours. Even for the physically fit the ascent will be arduous. Some high altitude acclimatization is suggested. The rim of the canyon is at an elevation of 2500 metres above sea level, Denver is at 1600 metres. There is no other way into the canyon other than by foot. The park rangers warn that the river is lined with poison ivy bushes some of them two metres tall.<br />
<br />
The Gunnison River is a relatively minor tributary of the Colorado River. The canyon is more than 85 kilometres long but only the most spectacular 19 are within the protected area of the park. The Ute Indians that had inhabited south-western Colorado for hundreds of years seldom ventured into the chasm. The canyon was not seen by Europeans until 1873 when railway survey crews entered the area. The engineers decided to go around the area because of the difficulty of bridging the canyon.<br />
<br />
Commencing about two million years ago the Gunnison River carved out the Black Canyon from a mass of Pre-Cambrian rock. The exposed rock faces of the canyon walls are a mess of colours. Lighter coloured rocks indicate where ancient lava intrusions penetrated into the parent rock. Standing on the rim and looking across the canyon to the opposite walls is like gazing on some immense modernist painting.<br />
<br />
The Black Canyon can be rewardingly explored from the rim. Both the North and South Rim Roads are set well back from the canyon and signs indicate where the best overviews are. However, most of those overviews are not fenced and care should be taken when approaching the canyon as the drop is sudden and often without warning. There are a number of hiking trails along the rims that lead to more remote overviews. The North Vista Trail is a good example. This three mile hike, including return, winds through the sage bushes, stunted oaks and pinyon pines to some wonderful views of the canyon. Most of the trail is well set back from the rim and is safe and easy. Signs identify where to leave the trial to the overviews. There are no park services or facilities on the north rim and you must bring your own food and water.<br />
<br />
There is an abundance of wildlife in the area. Eagles, falcons and hawks are very common soaring over the rims where they ride the updrafts from the canyon. Swifts are constantly swooping for insects along the canyon walls and various song birds abound in the sage and oaks of the rim lands. Chipmunks and ground squirrels are everywhere. Harder to see are the mule deer, coyote, black bears and the elusive mountain lion.<br />
<br />
We spent the morning exploring the several overviews along the North Rim Road and hiked the length of the North Vista Trail. We saw no one during the time we were in the park area. At one point as we looked across the canyon we could see some cars on the south rim but they were so far away that it felt like we had the whole park to ourselves. The weather had been perfect, sunny with a few clouds and comfortable temperatures despite it being July. We had been fortunate to run across the chatty clerk at the 7-Eleven because otherwise we would never have found the Black Canyon. It was one of several pleasant discoveries that made for a memorable road trip.Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-66236159873008987502011-04-19T22:01:00.018+02:002011-12-01T14:48:08.815+01:00Sailing With King Eric - Traditional Boats at the Family Island Regatta, the Bahamas<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNWmpymhoxpmt91CipOPUXkVsFxeoEwv9V4sXc9yob6gwGG2VHwirMcaJCHZVUbYf1asttq2bChph_9JTGKIGT7kzjY2KBlAjFOSAFVS_7sV-HExl1neQ6wEmvom9nLVzy5s5GZTp6jXc/s1600/family_island_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="156" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNWmpymhoxpmt91CipOPUXkVsFxeoEwv9V4sXc9yob6gwGG2VHwirMcaJCHZVUbYf1asttq2bChph_9JTGKIGT7kzjY2KBlAjFOSAFVS_7sV-HExl1neQ6wEmvom9nLVzy5s5GZTp6jXc/s400/family_island_1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
A few years ago our family spent a winter sailing in the Bahamas aboard our sailboat <em>Hirondelle.</em> During the third week of April we were anchored in Joe's Sound at the north end of Long Island. We had to be in Florida by the end of May, and if we wanted to make the return trip without rushing, it was time to go. The easiest way back was to retrace our steps up the Exuma islands including a stop in George Town on Great Exuma Island. There were two reasons for returning to George Town. We could replenish stores but, more importantly, we could attend the Family Island Regatta. The regatta for traditional boats is the Bahamas' most important sporting and social event. Chris and I were intrigued when several people told us that it was sometimes possible for visitors to crew on the racing sloops during the regatta.<br />
It was a Friday when we arrived back in George Town and there were significantly fewer foreign cruising boats compared to our previous visit. Nevertheless over a hundred boats were anchored throughout Elizabeth Harbour, as George Town´s great harbour is called. Earlier in the year there had been more than four hundred, mostly American and Canadian. It would be difficult to fill Elizabeth Harbour as it is a mile wide and almost five long. By April, however, most foreign cruisers have moved on to the Caribbean or were returning to the States. In George Town it was the quiet before the storm and the cruisers who had stayed knew that a great party was about to break out. Later that afternoon we watched a mailboat--as the cargo and passenger ships that ply between the islands are called--arrive from Nassau. Her cargo deck was loaded with racing sloops.<br />
The weekend was spent relaxing and loading up on groceries. During the nights we anchored across the harbour off Stocking Island. Meanwhile, George Town continued to fill with visitors, most of them Bahamians from other islands of the archipelago. On the waterfront facing the harbour and along the road to the government dock a sort of shanty town of makeshift bars and food stands took form. The streets were full of people strolling, some with beers in hand. Music blared out from various high powered sound systems. There was an air of old acquaintances renewed and new ones made. Many of the visitors would have surprised me if they had showed any interest in sailing. They knew a good party. The shore festivities had more in common with Mardi Gras than Cowes Week. Throughout the weekend various mailboats loaded with more sloops and visitors arrived. Several racing sloops from nearby communities in the Exumas or from Long Island were towed in by power boats.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg77wB8UcVV63OLD6aOIDLoQNsDwgSPkkdQ9zOC3n3-6D5pNtUzGvG-8oHHsYCg7UG1tv-m6KZOUxbUTnIYovB3JUTrs8QBcBzz76-3a9mlc6tF3Kvm36KjG3JzaRL681gt31j3YthgCWU/s1600/heading_out_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg77wB8UcVV63OLD6aOIDLoQNsDwgSPkkdQ9zOC3n3-6D5pNtUzGvG-8oHHsYCg7UG1tv-m6KZOUxbUTnIYovB3JUTrs8QBcBzz76-3a9mlc6tF3Kvm36KjG3JzaRL681gt31j3YthgCWU/s400/heading_out_3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Class A racing sloop New Southern Cross leaving Kidd Cove, George Town.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
On Monday morning we moved <em>Hirondelle</em> near to Kidd Cove, the anchorage adjacent to George Town. Most of the racing sloops were anchored in the cove itself. Christine and I watched the activity from our<em> </em>cockpit as the crews went about preparing their boats. The sloops bobbed and rocked from the wakes set up by the constant back and forth of the cruisers' power dinghies. One of the smaller C Class dinghies was rafted to a larger B Class sloop. The smaller boat’s mast was stepped with the aid of the larger's mast. Once the mast was secured the dinghy´s crew attempted to flag down a passing power boat. The crew wanted a tow but the power boaters thought that they were just being friendly, returned the waves and sped on. Chris suggested that I go over with our rowing dinghy and offer to help. I was not sure if I could effectively tow the heavy racing dinghy and hesitated before rowing across. The crew threw me a line although they were surprised that I had no engine. It was an easy pull. As we neared shore the crew tossed a stern anchor and I ran the painter off the bow to shore, no problem. Before returning I asked if they needed crew for the races. They declined my help but suggested that I ask around on some of the other boats. The racing was to start the next day with the high school class. We would try again the next day.<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>Day One - A Missed Chance</strong><br />
<br />
To get away from the noise of George Town, now in full party mode, we again spent the night anchored across the harbour off Stocking Island but on Tuesday morning we returned to Kidd Cove. That morning Chris almost had the chance to race. The regatta rules allow dinghies in the high school category to race with one or two adults aboard. As we watched the racing sloops prepare and go out to the course, a race committee boat approached us and asked if we wanted to crew. Chris went off and I stayed aboard with our two daughters. However, a few minutes later she returned. The officials had found someone else. It was very disappointing as by now Chris and I were quite keen to get on a sloop. We were falling for the ambiance of the event. We love sailing and, for sailors especially, the Bahamian sloops have a unique attraction. After lunch the four of us went for walk in town and along the regatta park. The crowds were even bigger than the day before; and the mailboat brought in another load of racing sloops.<br />
The intent of the founders of the Family Island Regatta was to provide, frankly, financial incentives to maintain the boat building skills and seamanship of the Bahamians. A group of American businessmen were concerned that the sailing workboats of the Bahamas were going to disappear into a haze of gasoline engine smoke. They organized the Out Island Squadron in 1953 to collect a fund of prize money from mostly American yachtsmen who knew and loved the Bahamas. Originally the regatta was known as the Out Island Regatta. Even if the winner of a race can claim bragging rights the prospect of a little cash keeps everyone interested and focused. The tradition of cash incentives continues today in the form of government subsidies for the regatta. Boat owners and crew share in some cash dispersals. The founding of the regatta has been told by one of the American founders, Linton Rigg, in his book <em>Bahama Islands</em>. A good account of the history of the regatta as an organization and its importance to Bahamian society can be found in the second volume of <em>Islanders in the Stream</em> by Michael Craton and Gail Saunders.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg2D6XsfpKhF7nfIL5IvPxmoTr86dAU-wUe41yE2vpd6M6mSMkmm116vpgZIl_b6RZCDCdmAMyc7Syk9jyu9LSWBN49m5jjncyOpRF1Nu5zOTsDWb0uUFZI0B8KUhRgbKzLjzZ-ORC-TQ/s1600/bahamas1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" i8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg2D6XsfpKhF7nfIL5IvPxmoTr86dAU-wUe41yE2vpd6M6mSMkmm116vpgZIl_b6RZCDCdmAMyc7Syk9jyu9LSWBN49m5jjncyOpRF1Nu5zOTsDWb0uUFZI0B8KUhRgbKzLjzZ-ORC-TQ/s400/bahamas1.JPG" width="363" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Bahamian sponge schooner <em>Blanche Eva</em> of Long Island. From J.<br />
Linton Rigg's book, <em>Bahama Islands</em>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The importance of boats to isolated islanders is self-evident. In the Bahamas up until the 1950s sailboats predominated in fishing, movement of cargo and in passenger traffic. Most of the fishing boats and mailboats were simple Bermudian-rigged sloops. Sail-propelled mailboats carried passengers and cargo between islands. There were also a number of larger schooners. However, much of the water in the Bahamas is shallow limiting the size of vessels. For those interested in Bahamian life and travel from island to island on the old sailing mailboats I recommend Evans W. Cottman's book <em>Out-Island Doctor</em>. An American, Cottman worked as a medical practitioner who starting in 1940 provided medical services to Bahamians living in isolated communities throughout the archipelago. Cottman's accounts of sailing aboard mailboats, sloops of generally less than 30 feet LOA, that carried passengers, cargo and animals on open decks, are somewhat disturbing. Life in the small and isolated communities was tough. The Bahamas may have been part of the great British Empire but the out islands were neglected.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMfvWLnIqHSNBemkS7981fHmI4nvSwapEF7d6kjW90uU13viG-VG7ve9xR-sH3hsIT71vcEoJ2mr33bahycBLsKPJ57Y1_s0W3q-9AP6eUB9NdS8hlSghJompribyLILRLmmioxrLJIuw/s1600/Homer_SloopNassau.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="277" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMfvWLnIqHSNBemkS7981fHmI4nvSwapEF7d6kjW90uU13viG-VG7ve9xR-sH3hsIT71vcEoJ2mr33bahycBLsKPJ57Y1_s0W3q-9AP6eUB9NdS8hlSghJompribyLILRLmmioxrLJIuw/s400/Homer_SloopNassau.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The Sloop, Nassau, by Winslow Homer. Painted in 1899 and part of the collection<br />
of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>Day Two - Sailing With the King</strong><br />
<br />
The day after Chris’ failed attempt to get on a racing sloop I tried my luck. And that Wednesday turned out to be a heck of a day. Early that morning we sailed back to Kidd Cove. Rowing the dinghy about the anchorage I asked at several of the sloops as their crews were preparing for the race. I was repeatedly turned down but one skipper suggested I try a green-hulled boat tied to the dock at the marina. So I rowed over and asked a gentleman who appeared to be in charge if he needed crew. “Hey, you don´t have an engine,” he called out. “I don´t need one,” I answered, and he laughed. Sure, he could use some more crew and he asked me to come back in an hour or so. I rowed back to <em>Hirondelle</em> to wait. I was going to be racing on <em>Lucayan Lady</em>, an A Class sloop. At least, that's what I thought.<br />
An hour later Chris and I rowed across the harbour back toward the marina. The girls stayed aboard <em>Hirondelle</em> but we asked some American friends aboard <em>Wandering Albatross,</em> anchored nearby, to keep an eye on them. As we approached the dock we were passed by a B Class sloop under tow going out to the race course. At the tiller of the sloop was the man I had spoken with before. Someone on the sloop recognised me and called out to us. They wanted me aboard the sloop straightaway. Honestly, I was confused about what was going on but I spun the dinghy about and chased after the boat in tow. I was losing ground but soon the tow line was dropped and I clambered aboard. I said bye to Chris and she rowed the dinghy back to <em>Hirondelle</em>.<br />
I approached and faced the skipper, the gentleman I had met earlier and we shook hands. I introduced myself and he said, “I’m Eric but everyone calls me King.” King was in his 70s but looked fit and strong, like a much younger man. His bare arms were muscled and lean like a boxer´s. He had a deep voice and was well spoken with a distinct Bahamian accent. Of course, I had no idea that I was sailing with a Bahamian legend. Later I found out the “King´s” real name was Eric Gibson and that he was one of the most famous musicians in the Bahamas. The sloop I was sailing on seemed to have been named the <em>A Queen</em>, which took me aback somewhat. It was a while before I could interpret the heavy Bahamian accents of the crew and figure out that the boat's name was actually the <em>Ansbacher Queen,</em> named after an old banking sponsor.<br />
The crew paid little attention to me except to give a few instructions on what to do. There was a laid back atmosphere, obviously, how could a newcomer be taken on with so little fuss and ceremony. I had some racing experience including crewing on an old 8-Metre class yacht and had seen how intense racing can get even at the club level. There was none of that on <em>Ansbacher Queen</em>. I quickly got into the swing of things and out on to the prys. From the helm King watched me intermittently, and my conduct on the pry and during the tacks seemed to meet with his approval. I was simply human ballast, as were most of the crew, and my role was to move my weight to where it was needed. In addition to human ballast the crew consisted of the helmsman, King, a sort of crew chief named Ali who also looked after the jib sheets, and China the mainsheet trimmer. Ali and King worked together as tactician and navigator during the race.<br />
Once I was aboard <em>Ansbacher Queen</em> things happened quickly. In fact, we were heading for the start line off Stocking Island. The wind was out of the south-west and the line, as on other triangular courses, was set perpendicular to it and marked by two buoys. Some of the boats were already on the line. We had an assigned position and it was a matter of finding the neighbouring boats. I was about to find out that the starts in Bahamian regattas are unlike others. The anchor was dropped on the weather side of the line, we let <em>Ansbacher Queen</em> blow downwind until her bow was aligned with the start, her sails were lowered and made ready for a quick hoist.<br />
The start area was crowded with racing sloops, race committee boats and dinghies full of spectators. Noise and confusion prevailed with stage-whisper orders aboard <em>Ansbacher Queen</em>, bull-horn commands from the officials, shouting from the crews around us and cheering from the spectators. One of the crew quickly explained how the start was to play out. The crew, except for the helmsman and sail trimmers, formed a line from the bow aft with each man holding the anchor rode. There was a first gun, the one-minute warning. During that minute the noise diminished somewhat but it was not complete silence. Every crewman on each of the 15 boats gripped the rodes nervously, waiting and waiting. Then the gun. Rodes were hauled in fast, hands sometimes missing their grips, each man's elbows flying and interfering with the man aft. The boat slid forward, gradually accelerating. As the speed increased sails were quickly hoisted. The anchor, once aboard, was dumped into the hold and forgotten. As the sails filled and <em>Ansbacher Queen </em>started to heel, the prys came into play.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8BH4c-StDfZKYW8485XwIqASE6zSkUw6IxHT0guSToTBU6M2teH0loUiBJAWt-uZGeIAAx5AouBtzQLaKegn1MVvMrI2BjigumTG_mU2WNGk5Qwx1CZ6xULuzgOb5OUI9Q50P6Bm6Rlc/s1600/1409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="255" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8BH4c-StDfZKYW8485XwIqASE6zSkUw6IxHT0guSToTBU6M2teH0loUiBJAWt-uZGeIAAx5AouBtzQLaKegn1MVvMrI2BjigumTG_mU2WNGk5Qwx1CZ6xULuzgOb5OUI9Q50P6Bm6Rlc/s320/1409.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The start. Ministry of Youth and Sport, Government of the Bahamas</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The prys or pry boards are a distinctive feature of the Bahamian racing sloops. A boat designer would charitably call the sloops over-canvased. They are unstable and the pry boards counter balance the pressure on the sail. As the boat heels the crew slide on their butts along the prys--rough 2 x 10s--projecting six or eight feet out from the windward gunnel. Tacking the boat involves sliding your butt back toward the boat, downhill if all goes well, as fast as you can. The last man off the pry, in other words the outer most man, slides the pry across the boat to the other side. This has to be timed with the boom coming across, a tricky maneuver aboard the A and B Classes. There is not much room below the boom as the gooseneck is only a few inches above the deck. As the boat tacks the crew has to scramble under the boom and get across on all fours or slide on their bellies. To make things more interesting one has to be aware of where you put your hands, fingers and toes. They can be crushed in any number of places but especially at the bent bars on the center line that hold down the inboard end of the prys.<br />
I was somehow designated outside man on the aft pry. With all the confusion it seemed the safest place aboard, it was certainly a great place to view the race. Out on the end of the pry I could look down and watch the keel and rudder slice through the crystal water. However, one had to be alert as to what the boat was doing and move accordingly inboard or outboard. It was also important to listen to what the skipper and sail trimmers were saying especially if the command to tack was given. At one point in the race while we were on starboard tack, and with rights, we crossed tacks with another boat. The end of our boom passed just over the heads of the crew on the prys of the other boat. It was very close and I thought that perhaps it would be a good idea to wear helmets. We finished in the pack and everyone aboard <em>Ansbacher Queen</em> was pleased with the result.<br />
We sailed back to Kidd Cove. As we passed I waved to Chris and the girls aboard <em>Hirondelle</em>. <em>Ansbacher Queen</em> was moored with an anchor off the stern and a bow line to the dock. There we set about preparing <em>Lucayan Lady</em> for her race. Most of the members of King's crew had arrived from Nassau around four o'clock that morning and had had difficulty finding a place to stay. They had slept wherever they could. They all lived and worked in Nassau where they maintained a fleet of four racing sloops but had only brought <em>Lucayan Lady</em> and <em>Ansbacher Queen</em> to George Town. Most of the crew had spread themselves out among several other boats for the B Class event but afterwards gradually drifted onto the dock to prepare for the A Class race. There was still much to do before <em>Lucayan Lady</em> was ready. Her sails had still not been bent. In addition to King's regular crew, there were going to be several non-Bahamians aboard, three Canadians (myself included) and an American.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh8RLsjrPq3VSGvlIzP_ahy3xJ1f6Zu8JyX97NjoxXIXW6W1aN842xiJqjtgqjKZcyXp-XgmKGTROI7ERwV8nUpI5dfCAKOYM2TYseAx3IL8M80bGQk411cOojqZY1_TH1Ix78f53Y3qk/s1600/sloop_o_sails.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="179" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh8RLsjrPq3VSGvlIzP_ahy3xJ1f6Zu8JyX97NjoxXIXW6W1aN842xiJqjtgqjKZcyXp-XgmKGTROI7ERwV8nUpI5dfCAKOYM2TYseAx3IL8M80bGQk411cOojqZY1_TH1Ix78f53Y3qk/s320/sloop_o_sails.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An A Class sloop approaching the mailboat in George Town.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
During the A Class race things did not go as expected aboard <em>Lucayan Lady </em>but no one got too uptight about it. I had the impression that King and his boys were happy to participate, party and play. The same went for the non-Bahamians aboard. We were late for the start but King and his crew took it in stride--no big deal. <em>Lucayan Lady,</em> and another late boat <em>Who Dat,</em> sailed the course chasing the rest of the fleet. As there was no pressure everyone relaxed and enjoyed the pleasant sail. With longer prys, as <em>Lucayan Lady</em> heeled you found yourself even higher above the water than aboard <em>Ansbacher Queen</em>. Riding the prys the non-Bahamians all wore big smiles. Some of King's boys, however, seemed to be nursing hangovers. Back at the dock the foreign contingent was pleased when King asked us all to return the next day.<br />
Looking to get back to <em>Hirondelle</em> I got a ride in Bob Fleury's dinghy, another of the Canadians aboard <em>Lucayan Lady</em>. With Bob's wife at the tiller we cruised through the anchorage and stopped to ask if any of the C Class dinghies needed crew. At one of the boats a couple of fellows were preparing to race. The skipper turned us down but as we pulled away called us back. I thought that perhaps he wanted only one of us but took us both. The skipper said he was expecting the arrival of a couple of other fellows. He must have thought that it was better to go with two willing, and sober, bodies who were present rather than wait for two others who were ashore perhaps succumbing to the temptations of the party. Bob and I climbed aboard <em>Vitamalt Thunderbird,</em> a new boat that had never been raced. After the mainsail was set we were off with Bob and I out on the prys. I waved to Chris and the girls as we went out to the race course. Wearing bright orange T-shirts with the sponsor's logo we stood out like sore thumbs.<br />
The C Class race was sailed in failing wind but it was the best "racing" that I experienced that day. Despite our performance the skipper, Joshua Green, was not satisfied with the boat's trim, the lead ballast weights needed shifting. He also said that <em>Vitamalt Thunderbird</em> would have been more effective if the wind had been stronger. In the gusts she seemed to make time on her competitors but lost it in the lighter air. Nevertheless, it was good racing. The crew totaled four, the skipper, the sail trimmer and the two Canadians. Bob and I had both raced the A and B Classes and by the third race we were quite adept at the prys. The lighter boat was more sensitive to the wind and working the pry required more quickness and finesse. The variable winds had us constantly moving back and forth but it was a lot of fun. Joshua seemed pleased with our ability and after the finish we were invited back for the following day.<br />
Racing in all classes had given me the opportunity to have a close look at the boats. From a distance the Bahamian sloops have a sleek yacht-like appearance especially the hulls which are kept to a high-gloss finish. The painted rub rails emphasize their beautiful sheer lines. <em>Ansbacher Queen</em> had a white hull with a red rub rail, <em>Lucayan Lady</em> a green hull with the rub rail painted yellow. Up close the boats are crudely but strongly built. Inside the framing has been roughly shaped and some of the frames were not square to the length of the keel. Bahamian sloops have no external ballast but are loaded with lead pigs that are shifted about to adjust the boat's trim. The loose ballast also allows a boat to be recovered if it sinks, which often happens. The regattas are always held in shallow waters and recovering a boat is relatively easy. Once divers are sent down to remove the ballast the boat can be raised. <br />
Despite the intentions of the founders of the Family Island Regatta, over the last half century the boats and their rigs have changed to such an extent that they are now very different from the working boats of the 1950s. The race committee struggles to maintain a balance between tradition and modernity. Of course everyone wants to win and rules have always been pushed by crews and boat builders. Racing sloops, of course, are built to class rules. The boats must be designed, built and sailed by Bahamians. The A and B Class sloops are approximately 28 feet LOA and 21 feet LOA respectively. The boats are of wooden construction and in appearance must be of traditional "Bahamian" hull shape emphasising moderate overhangs, pronounced sheer and a wineglass transom. Winches are not allowed.<br />
Over the course of the last half century the sloops have tended to become "racing machines" built for speed rather than serving as fishing boats or passenger vessels. The racing machine aspect the Bahamian sloops is most evident in the huge area of canvas they carry relative to their hull size. The "recommended" maximum mast and boom lengths for an A Class sloop are 60 feet and 32 feet respectively, and that is on a hull 28 feet in length. The mainsails are hoisted with large wooden headboards that gives the boats a <em>leg-of-mutton</em> look while further increasing sail area. The solid wooden masts are so far forward that the sloops look like cat boats. No spreaders are allowed under the rules and the shrouds reach almost to the truck of the mast. Only A and B Class sloops have jibs which are relatively small though they are critical for tacking. This importance was made clear on several occasions during the regatta. The rules exclude the use of synthetic fabrics, heavy canvas duck is the usual sail fabric. <br />
In contrast, the Haitian sailing vessels which are frequently seen in the Bahamas could be arguably more in keeping with the spirit of the first Out Island Regattas. The crudely built Haitian boats are constructed from local materials, the sails, sometimes incongruously colourful, are sewn together from scavenged advertising banners. The Haitian sailors are generally unwelcome in the Bahamas but at a certain level are tolerated by the authorities. In Nassau we once saw a half dozen anchored near the harbour entrance in striking contrast to the huge cruise ships at the nearby docks. The Haitians play the part of seagoing junkyard dealers collecting anything that may have some value back in Haiti. Several times we saw Haitian boats, their decks loaded with used mattresses, furniture and old bicycles, sail the length of Nassau harbour past the hotels on Paradise Island, past the cruise ships and yachts of the well-to-do. It was an image out of Cottman's book and the old Bahamian mailboats must have looked much the same. The Haitians do not yet need a traditional boat regatta.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ3HztWLOFuon1QrKlvgEqGt8SDrY3Yhhb_bn3XB4ZG7CIkTlDn2os3Jeagc1wMGiL5Us2E2NxFz7UmPvbbSexF7rnActL7-cUstpgiOQxrrZJ7BH6xtgkbuhzN-I7LMGJQgMHy-fQlh0/s1600/bahamas3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" i8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ3HztWLOFuon1QrKlvgEqGt8SDrY3Yhhb_bn3XB4ZG7CIkTlDn2os3Jeagc1wMGiL5Us2E2NxFz7UmPvbbSexF7rnActL7-cUstpgiOQxrrZJ7BH6xtgkbuhzN-I7LMGJQgMHy-fQlh0/s400/bahamas3.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Confusion at the start during an early edition (1950s) of the Out Island Regatta.<br />
From J. Linton Rigg's book <em>Bahama Islands.</em></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<strong>Day Three - Vitamalt, the Drink That Puts Lead in Your Pencil</strong><br />
<br />
On the third day of the regatta I had to make an effort to resolve a problem. The previous day the whole time I was racing I kept thinking of Chris aboard <em>Hirondelle</em> and how much she wanted to be out on one of the sloops. Her one chance to race had been quashed but somehow in one day I had managed to race on three different boats. During our travels in the Bahamas we had noticed a reluctance on the part of Bahamian women to get out on small boats. We wondered if it was a cultural phenomenon. The year before we saw a young women driving a power boat working with several fishing boats as we all sat out a weather front behind Chub Cay. We thought it remarkable because it was the only time we saw a Bahamian woman running a boat. At the Family Island Regatta several of the racing sloops had women aboard but they were all foreigners, including one on <em>Lucayan Lady</em>. Clearly King had no issue with female crew so I thought that there would be a chance that Chris could race on <em>Lucayan Lady</em>.<br />
Early on Thursday morning we were again anchored off Kidd Cove. Bob and his wife came round and ferried me over to the marina dock. The B Class race was again the first of the day. The wind was light at the start but gradually picked up throughout the race. <em>Ansbacher Queen</em> was outclassed and we finished third last. Then it was back to the dock to prepare for <em>Lucayan Lady´s</em> race. King was happy to have Chris aboard and that was a relief for me. We had arranged for the girls to go aboard <em>Wandering Albatross. </em>There they would be plied with cookies and candies and pay almost no attention to what their parents were doing. We met King´s wife when she brought sandwiches for the crew.<br />
<em> Lucayan Lady</em> made a somewhat hapless departure from the dock, drifting out of control through the cruisers' anchorage but without hitting anything. At least we made it to the start on time. After we had anchored, and as we waited for the start, an inflatable dinghy of one of the cruising boats approached <em>Lucayan Lady</em>. A woman her late fifties or early sixties in the dinghy hailed King. "Hey, King," she shouted, "I first met you 35 years ago in Nassau." We all looked at her as she snapped some photographs and then moved on. I don't think King had a clue who she was but some of the crew teased him about the encounter.<br />
For the <em>Lucayan Ladies</em> the second A Class race was to be memorable for the wrong reasons, but at least no one was hurt. A 15-knot breeze was blowing up white caps across Elizabeth Harbour. Again I was outside man on the aft pry. Chris was on the same pry but inboard. With her extensive experience racing 470 dinghies she quickly got into the groove of sailing aboard <em>Lucayan Lady</em>. We had a good start without fouling any other boats. Out on the pry with the strong wind it was a hell of a ride. Sitting way above the water, occasionally looking down to see the keel through the clear water and feeling the press of the wind rocking the boat, was exhilarating. It was not to last long. While on the starboard tack, heading for the first windward mark off Stocking Island there was a loud cracking sound, the snap of wood breaking. On the pry and with bodies in front of me, I could see nothing but the boom had a three-foot long split starting from the gooseneck. It was all at once very quiet aboard. What would happen next? Fortunately, nothing really bad.<br />
With hand firm on the tiller King held his course, and sent China forward with a length of rope. Somewhat incredulously, the crew watched as China wrapped the rope round the split to try and hold the boom together like a spline. I do not think anyone believed, certainly not the cruisers, that the repair would hold once we jibed or tacked. Complicating matters was the fact that we were on starboard tack and at the windward mark we would have to round with the buoy on portside. Tacking was going to be a problem in our delicate condition. Ahead of us several boats were about to reach the vicinity of the mark at the same time and there was not going to be room for all of them. There occurred a series of bumps and crashes between various boats, and I was sure that we were going to join in on the fun. Bahamian skippers sail their boats as if they are carry heavy insurance, but perhaps they don't and that no one cares too much. Closing in on the mark we hit the first boat beam on beam. Chris scampered aboard and sat by the gunnel watching to see what would happen next. As <em>Lucayan Lady</em> headed up and leveled off, the ends of the pries dipped into the water. I gripped the pry trying to hold on as the pressure of the water tried to pull me off. I made it to the boat with nothing worse than a soaking. The outside man on the other pry, next to me, dived into the water. We sheered away from the other boat carrying enough forward momentum to take us to the mark just as another boat on the port tack also did. Our bow hit the other boat just abaft of their bow. We were then dead in the water. Obviously we could not go on. We were also short at least two of crew. I looked about but could not find Chris. The fellow who had dived off was now on the pry of another boat that had fished him out and was now moving away. A second fellow had dived off to avoid being swept off by the boom of another boat but came back aboard <em>Lucayan Lady</em>. I could not find Chris because in the confusion she had the sense to dive into the hold. If the boats were not built of wood it would have been a real mess. One of our shrouds had broken in one of the collisions. It was time to lower the main. <br />
<em> Lucayan Lady</em> limped back to the dock under jib alone. There we surveyed the damage. King said that he could fix the boom in time for next day's race. He proposed wrapping the split with fibreglass. Chris and I had experience with fibreglass repairs and we offered to help King. He thanked us but said it was not necessary. I went off to race the C Class race aboard <em>Vitamalt Thunderbird</em>. This time we had a fifth man aboard which helped in the blowing conditions. We had a sloppy start and missed one of our tacks. That was enough to leave us trailing for the rest of the race. We finished eleventh.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBe6eJAVdsEecF7mD2VBGepG6-Yn0F3N1WDI47xqTNXpX-II5OqlGxHezGBlU6Pq4IWXAEZIvU6iuc_BiFiWKqhMLwhcW7d_sxbhe8O_D1NPTLBNFr-72PZ-PwInIhIuy6rL3uTlGLkts/s1600/bahamas-1965-sg-248-out-island-regatta-fine-mint-20308-p.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; height: 122px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; width: 197px;"><img border="0" height="121" i8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBe6eJAVdsEecF7mD2VBGepG6-Yn0F3N1WDI47xqTNXpX-II5OqlGxHezGBlU6Pq4IWXAEZIvU6iuc_BiFiWKqhMLwhcW7d_sxbhe8O_D1NPTLBNFr-72PZ-PwInIhIuy6rL3uTlGLkts/s200/bahamas-1965-sg-248-out-island-regatta-fine-mint-20308-p.jpg" width="200" /></a></div> Someone showed us an article published a couple of days before the regatta in a Bahamian newspaper on our skipper King. We learned that he is a native of Acklins Island in the southern Bahamas. In the late 1950s he formed the calypso band King Eric & His Knights playing the nightclubs and hotels in Nassau. King and his band were very popular throughout the 1960s and he is recognized wherever he goes in the Bahamas. Later he opened a recording studio promoting other Bahamian musicians. He continues to run a variety show in one of the big hotels on Cable Beach in Nassau but he is also involved in various businesses. A son was a member of the Bahamian parliament. King's involvement in sailing sloops goes back many years. Not only does he sail but he and his wife make many of the sails used by other competitors. In 2004 Queen Elizabeth invested King with the MBE for his contributions to Bahamian music and society.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDpkRokuNcx-qS4g6KQm8qY-hXXQOFor7i5iwVIeXjrKxriSPS7XY1BDfMmevJkHMRudxmV6K3zFJo4zSy8FdcArz9oSbYYsiM7yGJQVZz52dY_01JmgG6wkocr3lpIwHVIbBsHUrE-1c/s1600/bahamas2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" i8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDpkRokuNcx-qS4g6KQm8qY-hXXQOFor7i5iwVIeXjrKxriSPS7XY1BDfMmevJkHMRudxmV6K3zFJo4zSy8FdcArz9oSbYYsiM7yGJQVZz52dY_01JmgG6wkocr3lpIwHVIbBsHUrE-1c/s400/bahamas2.JPG" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Bahama spinnakers" in the early years of the Out Island <br />
Regatta. From J. Linton Rigg´s book <em>Bahama Islands.</em></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<strong>Day Four - Another Day at the Races</strong><br />
<br />
The fourth day of racing again proved to be most interesting. The B Class boats raced first and aboard <em>Ansbacher Queen</em> it was not to go well. The performance of the crew would have made the Keystone Cops envious. I thought the crew members were not very supportive of the skipper King, most of them arriving late. Most of the crew had been getting into the spirit of the regatta and for the majority admitted to having been out late partying. King with the help of some of his regulars and me, as the visitor, changed <em>Ansbacher Queen's</em> sails. Leaving the dock was a comedy of errors accompanied by a chorus of shouts, orders and counter orders. Confusion in a word. We left the dock with <em>Lucayan Lady's</em> rudder aboard. The intent was to leave the rudder aboard <em>Lucayan Lady</em> which was anchored out. Our tow boat did not understand the various shouts emanating from <em>Ansbacher Queen</em> and we were unable to deliver the rudder as planned. We simply dropped it into the water near the start to be picked up later. The confusion aboard made for a very unsettled atmosphere at least as far as I was concerned. The start went reasonably well but we muffed a tack early on, leaving us dead in the water and the fleet moved on without us. Eventually, when everyone realised that it was hopeless the tension aboard eased somewhat. At one point I was swept off the pry by a wave and I found myself hanging on to the gunnel, my legs in the water. King looked over at me and shouted, "save the man." A couple of the crew unceremoniously hauled me aboard. Throughout the race there was a constant patter between King and his boys. King chastising them that if they stayed out so late they should not expect to do well. The crew, at least some, insisting that they had not been out as late as King thought. Returning to the dock I was wary of what would happen on <em>Lucayan Lady</em>.<br />
We moved <em>Lucayan Lady</em> from the anchorage to the dock and changed her sails. A power boat delivered the rudder. Overnight King had repaired the boom, there was a mass of fibreglass wrapped round the split like some huge bandaged thumb. Chris came aboard and I recounted to her what had happened on <em>Ansbacher Queen</em>. Mercifully we had a tow out from the dock possibly saving us some embarrassment. Despite a good start and more or less competent sailing, we finished near the back of the pack. The wind was again up near 15 knots and at times <em>Lucayan Lady</em> was almost on her beam ends. Those on the prys had a thrilling ride, if somewhat alarming.<br />
Aboard <em>Vitamalt Thunderbird's</em> we put in a good effort in the C Class race but we were frustrated by a decision taken before the race. As the wind was fairly strong during the early part of the day, Joshua thought that it would be more appropriate to race with less sail area. Accordingly we changed to a shorter boom and smaller main. Of course, once committed to such a move there is no way to go back. It would have been better with the larger main because by the time we got out to the start the winds were failing. Nevertheless, we sailed well. The way the course was laid out, the fleet had to sail the downwind leg through the cruising boat anchorage near Stocking Island. Joshua had his hands full keeping the end of the boom clear of the anchored boats. Two of the sloops behind us had a bizarre encounter. One sloop snagged the stay of another boat. The mast of the one boat bent to a phenomenal degree before snapping about two-thirds of the way up. The broken bit came down on the foredeck, fortunately clear of the crew.<br />
After three races I was exhausted and hungry. Chris and the girls were ashore enjoying the party and I found them after awhile of wandering through the crowds of party goers. Music from various sources blared a cacophony of noise. The scantily dressed girls showed off and the guys eyed them. Food and drink was available at various stands. There was a small police presence but it was a happy friendly crowd. Again it was a mostly Bahamian crowd with a few foreigners. The Anglican bishop of the Bahamas was said to be about. If the bishop was looking for sinners no one paid him any attention. The Family Island Regatta was more fun than the timid cruiser´s regatta.<br />
Later over dinner, Chris and I discussed sailing aboard <em>Lucayan Lady</em>. We had no doubt that King was a good, or even an excellent sailor, but his Bahamians were not in his same league. It was obvious that of all the crew Ali was the only one who had sailed extensively. Chris thought that most of King´s boys were very inexperienced sailors. In fact, we learned later that most had only been sailing for a short time, a few weeks in fact. They seemed at times not to realise the importance of King´s commands or instructions. For instance, it was critically important to get the jib around and hardened quickly during a tack or else the boat ended up in stays and stopped dead in the water. The crew also did not understand why going to windward the mainsail was flattened by pulling the outhaul or conversely why the outhaul was released on the downwind legs. Eventually, they would learn these things. Once Chris realised the level of skill that most of the crew had she felt more comfortable taking the initiative in some of the maneuvers, for example, during anchoring and mooring. For his part, King understood that Chris and I were comfortable on a boat in a way that most of his boys were not. I think he appreciated having us aboard. A couple of the crew were oddly adverse to water. One fellow would not go out on the pry because he did not want to get wet and another wore a plastic bag under his T-shirt to keep the spray off. To us Canadians getting wet in the Bahamas was part of the fun, like ducks to water.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB4cQ8s1LYXYoVeRwcx1zeUygJ7rm1MwBb9kUUDT5-m9i9ibGcUBYQAQ5sHKHfmR0VWl4U8BVfkrJNuYUJn7SckR74BQN776BbukEq-CCoe08PywVsQ5rjYz_tjhnRg30pH1aubuv7kmg/s1600/bahamas4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" i8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB4cQ8s1LYXYoVeRwcx1zeUygJ7rm1MwBb9kUUDT5-m9i9ibGcUBYQAQ5sHKHfmR0VWl4U8BVfkrJNuYUJn7SckR74BQN776BbukEq-CCoe08PywVsQ5rjYz_tjhnRg30pH1aubuv7kmg/s320/bahamas4.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The author kitted out in Vitamalt colours and<br />
enjoying a sample of the sponsor's fine (non-<br />
alcoholic, by the way) brew.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><strong>Day Five - You've Gotta Regatta </strong><br />
<br />
Saturday was the last day of the regatta. The order of races had changed and it was the C Class that was to go first. Bob picked me up early and we were aboard <em>Vitamalt Thunderbird </em>by a quarter to eight. Joshua had elected to change back to the original longer boom and larger sail. There was a 15-knot breeze churning up white caps out on Elizabeth Harbour. Aboard <em>Vitamalt Thunderbird</em> the mood was upbeat and we were all keen to put in a good race. We had a good start getting away cleanly. Bob and I were as usual on the prys. From the starting line we had gone off on port tack and headed into the corner off Regatta Point, the wind out of the south-west. Off of Regatta Point we flipped to starboard tack and as we neared the centre of the course we were probably in the top five. <em>Legal Weapon</em> was on port tack also heading up the centre of the course. Blanketed by her sails and without a lookout <em>Legal Weapon's </em>crew could not see us. It was obvious to Bob and I out on the prys that we were going to collide. My instinct was to holler "starboard" but as a guest I was reluctant, I did not want to usurp the skipper´s authority. I think Bob felt the same. Just as we were about to hit, Green pushed the tiller over and luffed up into the wind thus avoiding the collision. <em>Legal Weapon</em> heard more than saw us and tacked away clear but we found ourselves dead in the water. There was no option but to drop the main part way and fall off to make some way. We hoisted the main and continued but by then the fleet had left us behind. It was disappointing especially since <em>Vitamalt Thunderbird</em> had been well sailed. Downwind she found her stride and we all felt that we could have finished in the money. Later anchored in Kidd Cove as we helped de-rig the boat we could hear <em>Vitamalt Thunderbird's </em>owner angrily and loudly berating the crew of <em>Legal Weapon</em>. It was unlikely that <em>Legal Weapon´s</em> crew was very much concerned as they had won Class C honors. Good racers they were but showed poor seamanship by failing to keep a proper lookout. As we worked on the boat Joshua quietly said to us that he had luffed the boat because he did not want anyone hurt. He had no other option and had made the correct decision, it's only a boat race after all. I kept thinking that I should have shouted out. The owner asked if Bob and I would be attending any of the other regattas, it was a nice appreciation of our abilities.<br />
Next up was the B Class race and what was to be a dismal performance by <em>Ansbacher Queen</em>. I do not want to give the impression that I was not enjoying myself, I was, but it would have been icing on the cake to have been able to contribute to some better finishes. The B Class races were the most bizarre, frustrating and, frankly, ridiculous. At least <em>Ansbacher Queen</em> had a decent start and we got around the course once completely before things went haywire. It was on the up-wind leg when we missed a tack. The main had to come down and the boat fall away to get some way before hoisting the sail; a very tedious maneuver to have to perform in the middle of a race. We got the boat going and then we missed another tack. Once again we let <em>Ansbacher Queen</em> fall away and got her going and then we muffed the tack for the third time. The problem was a lack of sharpness on the part of the crew especially the handling of the jib, way too slow to come across. The crew fell silent and I felt bad for King. He was frustrated but took it in stride. Unlike some of the skippers I had raced for, King never lost his cool or abused any of his crew. By this time we were hopelessly behind all of the other boats and the pretence was made that we had broken equipment. King elected to sail back to Kidd Cove where we tailed off of <em>Lucayan Lady</em>. We had time to take off the mainsail and boom of <em>Ansbacher Queen</em>. We transferred some of the lead pigs from the B boat to <em>Lucayan Lady</em>. Chris got a ride over and we both helped while most of the crew scampered off to shore, presumably to lick wounds and have some lunch. Chris, myself and some others sailed <em>Ansbacher Queen</em> under jib alone round to the government dock. Chris had the opportunity to steer for a bit. We anchored behind one of the mailboats. Going ashore King bought me a beer and we walked over through the happy crowds to the marina dock.<br />
Gradually the crew reassembled on the dock and we hitched rides out to <em>Lucayan Lady</em>. Another bit of Keystone Cops antics was played out in Kidd Cove. Sailing off the anchor in a crowded anchorage is never without the potential of providing onlookers with some entertainment. We did not disappoint. Sailing through the crusiers' anchorage, fortunately very slowly, we had little way and thus almost no steerage. It was then that we drifted over the anchor rode of an anchored cruiser. The rode slid along <em>Lucayan Lady´s</em> keel until it lodged in the gap between the rudder and the hull. That stopped us and we swung sideways until we were beam to beam with the cruiser in question, whose owners, fortunately, were not aboard. While some of us fended off, a couple of the crew dived in and were able to slip the rode out of the gap. The whole episode was enacted a couple of boat lengths away from <em>Wandering Albatross,</em> the boat where our daughters were being entertained. The girls were able to closely follow their parents shenanigans. It is good that your children can sometimes laugh at you.<br />
Free at last, we sailed off to more adventures. Mercifully we were not late for the start, and neither did we make a hash of it. We were simply outclassed by the other crews. One boat did, however, drop out because of a torn mainsail. The race goes to the swift and cunning, we were neither. We did nothing very wrong, we made all of our tacks and rounded the buoys without trouble, but we were just not sharp enough. The last leg of the race ran from a mark below the monument on Stocking Island diagonally across Elizabeth Harbour to the finish line off Regatta Point. Again I was on the outer end of the pry with Chris inboard of me and it was a glorious few minutes as <em>Lucayan Lady</em> chased after the rest of the fleet. From last place we had a fine sight of the fleet ahead racing over the aquamarine waters of Elizabeth Harbour. For the crowds of spectators, both on shore and aboard boats, it was a grand thing to watch the racing fleet come home. Overhead a glorious blue sky with the odd puff of white clouds. Below us the crystal water curved to the sheer of <em>Lucayan Lady's </em>hull. Perched high up on the prys we had the best seats in the house. As we crossed the line there were cheers and horns blaring. A power boat of full of spectators, or perhaps groupies, approached <em>Lucayan Lady</em> to say hello to and cheer King. He wore a big smile and waved to his friends. The regatta was over.<br />
<em> Lucayan Lady</em> dropped anchor opposite the government dock. There we took the sails off and removed the boom to lay it on deck. Later <em>Lucayan Lady</em> with her mast still standing would be hoisted aboard a mailboat for the trip to Nassau. The crew hitched rides to shore as soon as they could and dashed off for the shore party. Chris and I said thanked King for having us aboard and he expressed his gratitude to us. We said goodbye to the crew chief Ali. Once ashore Chris and I walked up the main street towards the town centre. There was a huge crowd in front of the government building watching the Bahamian Police Band and its break-dancing sergeant-major. We met up with the girls and their escorts from <em>Wandering Albatross</em>. And, we went on to the regatta party for some food and something stronger than Vitamalt like, say, a few ice cold Kaliks.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZXvIDpF9mJLwig022KoHw883FMA4ExVKV4YAmYoUF2fs4xRnHSGmZ7OAIkTkI8_TJIQNnC0XBOUajt4op5cEaCzA2yQlpVoSjvP-SDy-Pzxvn4NRou2iR-H9KKP0rz-hslw7mfLev7hk/s1600/bahamian_sloop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZXvIDpF9mJLwig022KoHw883FMA4ExVKV4YAmYoUF2fs4xRnHSGmZ7OAIkTkI8_TJIQNnC0XBOUajt4op5cEaCzA2yQlpVoSjvP-SDy-Pzxvn4NRou2iR-H9KKP0rz-hslw7mfLev7hk/s320/bahamian_sloop.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Class A sloop sailing in Elizabeth Harbour off Regatta Point.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<em>I recommend the following books for those who may be interested in Bahamian history, sailing and the Family Island Regatta.</em><br />
<br />
<em>Out-Island Doctor</em>, Cottman, Evans W., with Wyatt Blassingame, Hodder and Stoughton, 1963<br />
<br />
<em>Islanders in the Stream; A History of the Bahamian People, Volume Two</em>, Micheal Craton, Gail Saunders, University of Georgia Press, 1998<br />
<br />
<em>Bahama Islands</em>, J. Linton Rigg, 3rd edition, D. Van Norstand Company Inc., 1959<br />
<br />
<em>(All images by Chris unless otherwise noted.)</em>Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-69322259025251242032011-03-28T00:57:00.023+02:002013-03-26T08:41:04.156+01:00XVII Descenso del Oria - A Basque Rowing Regatta<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfmH9Wr-E75y0OVXG2grJWPWDOTppe0V-mf6k4wiBmtxx2WH4wnllZCBQMP6ZrExWxbO_Hr2-yTXNonkoOglvSZkyk8qdaeQTNRM-HXDLbx2vYVcLdefl-lexNbb-rdA4AcOOpBiksNJY/s1600/orio1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfmH9Wr-E75y0OVXG2grJWPWDOTppe0V-mf6k4wiBmtxx2WH4wnllZCBQMP6ZrExWxbO_Hr2-yTXNonkoOglvSZkyk8qdaeQTNRM-HXDLbx2vYVcLdefl-lexNbb-rdA4AcOOpBiksNJY/s400/orio1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We arrived in Orio late on a Friday night after seven hours on the road from Barcelona. As we drove slowly down the main street that runs parallel to the river, patrons of the outdoor bars and the strollers along the sidewalks paused to look at the odd boat we were towing on the trailer. Eventually someone recognised the boat and they shouted in Castilian, "the Catalans have arrived!" and there were cheers. Some more shouts followed, some of it in incomprehensible Euskara, the language of the Basques. We were in the Basque country for the <em>XVII Descenso de Traineras del Oria</em>, a pre-season regatta. The organisers had invited some Catalan clubs to the event. The two Iberian nations have many cultural differences, among them the rowing boats that Basques and Catalans race.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
While the Catalans have been racing <em>llaguts</em> for about two decades, the Basque <em>traineras</em> have a history that goes back to the 19th century. The Catalans launch their tubby seaworthy <em>llaguts</em>, based on old fishing boats, through the beach surf along a stretch of Mediterranean coast that has few natural harbours. The 300 kg <em>llaguts</em> are manned by eight oarsmen, or oarswomen, seated side-by-side and a coxswain. The <em>traineras</em>, longer and lighter than the <em>llaguts</em>, are derived from whale chasers that darted out from harbours into the Bay of Biscay. The <em>traineras</em> seat 14 in an odd arrangement of seven rowers on port side and six on starboard side. Instead of a rudder the coxswain uses a steering oar over the port side. Whether rowing in an <em>llagut</em> or a <em>trainera</em> it is still hard-on-the-ass fixed seat rowing.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc0i-OPS7G4m-BQwV0nu0J7hv2_wqbaYkuDquFNvZABtekaxEqPm0EtIUKYaIYnU0g68X6qQ6qnqe5LOaTvAl5LisoXThxaQfhpeCBeox4bl0X5etPj_Cqs_6Y9sjpmLzd7f9P-bdJ5Ws/s1600/orio3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="cssfloat: left; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc0i-OPS7G4m-BQwV0nu0J7hv2_wqbaYkuDquFNvZABtekaxEqPm0EtIUKYaIYnU0g68X6qQ6qnqe5LOaTvAl5LisoXThxaQfhpeCBeox4bl0X5etPj_Cqs_6Y9sjpmLzd7f9P-bdJ5Ws/s400/orio3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Orio a town of 5,000, and like many Basque coastal communities, has a splendid rowing tradition. The rowing club is very impressive, not only do the members row <em>traineras</em> they also race sliding-seat shells. The boathouse is filled with Empachers, Filippis and Hudsons. During the years of the Spanish dictatorship Orio hosted international regattas, including some in the late 1960s and early 1970s, that attracted Oxford and Cambridge. However, the <em>Descenso del Orio</em> is strictly a fixed-seat rowing event.<br />
<br />
On race day Saturday it was overcast and raining. The main launch area for the visiting clubs and crews was down by the <em>llotja</em> where the Basque fishermen land their catches and repair nets. There were dozens of trailers and boats surrounded by crews preparing their boats. Spectators and supporters milled about examining the <em>llaguts</em> and <em>traineras</em>. The Basques and Catalans were keen to look over each other's boats. Since their respective languages are mutually incomprehensible the <em>lingua franca</em> was Castilian but there was not a single Spanish flag visible the length of Orio's waterfront. <br />
<br />
The <em>llaguts</em> were all of fibreglass construction, heavy and stoutly built. Most of the <em>trianeras</em> were also fabricated with fibreglass but built with more finesse and greater economy of material. However, there were some <em>traineras</em> of wood construction made with the same craftsmanship as old wooden rowing shells. The varnished wood of one of the <em>traineras</em> that I examined reminded me of the wide-grained cedar used on Pocock racing shells of forty years ago. Most of the oars are made from carbon fibre.<br />
<br />
The <em>Descenso del Orio</em> is organised like a head race four or six kilometres long depending on a crew´s category. As the race course is on an estuary, the start of the regatta is timed to coincide with slack water at high tide. Otherwise the upper reaches would be too shallow to row. The tide at Orio is an impressive four metres and it makes a big difference to the navigability of the river. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8MDKZkrxUWbIPQIaMHIKXqRq8pfPFmT3Mn-imPhJgtUtknHNzgm-XWZWiwABO6NCMNcwnBnbPMlhbsvJm37iT0G2p-Sf7Tjxu3J09aR86yWP-8ud9YnIcoBx6WwA87x6LJmO8t76tZqA/s1600/orio2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="cssfloat: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8MDKZkrxUWbIPQIaMHIKXqRq8pfPFmT3Mn-imPhJgtUtknHNzgm-XWZWiwABO6NCMNcwnBnbPMlhbsvJm37iT0G2p-Sf7Tjxu3J09aR86yWP-8ud9YnIcoBx6WwA87x6LJmO8t76tZqA/s400/orio2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
There were only three <em>llaguts</em> and as guests we were given the first three starting positions but there were 62 <em>traineras</em> entered. A couple of the Catalan clubs raced in borrowed <em>traineras</em>. They were handicapped by their unfamiliarity with the equipment. All of the boats milling about the start area reminded of the <em>Head of the Charles</em> in Boston. The Oria especially at the start is much narrower than the Charles. Even the damp weather felt like autumn in New England but the background on the Oria consisted of steep green mountains instead of Boston skyscrapers.<br />
<br />
Like any rowing race one expects to hurt and the <em>Descenso del Oria</em> was no exception. Fixed-seat rowing is as hard as sliding-seat rowing. The first part of the course was narrow and meandering but the second half wider and more open to the head wind and rain that seemed to build during the course of the race. The last 800 metres of the course followed the Orio waterfront and there was a bridge just beyond the finish line. It seemed like the whole town was out to watch and the crowds on shore and on the bridge were very vocal in their appreciation of the crews' efforts. We bested the other <em>llaguts</em> and then drifted by the finish line to watch the <em>traineras</em> come across. With longer waterlines, narrower beams and larger crews the<em> traineras</em> are much faster than the <em>llaguts</em>. The <em>traineras</em> have an impressive ponderous grace as they move, their fine bows slicing neatly through the water. I thought that it would be interesting to row in one.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM9z0nY5eJBiePawxUw7KJdz5fH9pJw_fLt1_rzqiOdQ-m-bHxiZYGMobLEjaCrcR1IAb2sq-aj-rQAQSEqyYurPcy71mUim9Aq9xSG2UmNKYouuePURg6n6Br3AxY0BmDv4bynQktAXY/s1600/orio4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM9z0nY5eJBiePawxUw7KJdz5fH9pJw_fLt1_rzqiOdQ-m-bHxiZYGMobLEjaCrcR1IAb2sq-aj-rQAQSEqyYurPcy71mUim9Aq9xSG2UmNKYouuePURg6n6Br3AxY0BmDv4bynQktAXY/s400/orio4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Later, many of the crews went for dinner at a <em>sagardotekis</em>, a traditional Basque cider house, high on a hill overlooking the river and valley. The Basque cuisine is said by many to be the best in Spain. We were served codfish omelets, huge thick beef steaks, and chunks of pungent cheese. We drank the strong apple cider poured directly from the huge barrels that lined the walls of the <em>sagardotekis</em>. Sitting a dozen to a table on bench seats, oarsmen and oarswomen talked about rowing and food. The table next to us was occupied by a group of Orio veterans who had there own rowing stories to share. It reminded me of long ago Saturday nights up at the Henley Island clubhouse on Martindale Pond but the Basque food was better.<br />
<br />
<em>(All photographs by Sergi, Carol and Blanca, Club Nautic de Premia, Premia de Mar)</em>Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6552063988910768908.post-53354131107688567262011-03-18T15:24:00.001+01:002011-05-13T22:26:35.024+02:00Solar Sails See the Light<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjud0M5P4sWaiVZE-EBLwwMJiVDBgCjfhEPIhbWUmqoHrSgRhHNn7t8prfBQkk65FC-3lvAO1LHGO1jIDic3I71zVLiWOI5S5uZQfNmlgOcF_sPAYE-GSGGOIwyFlNfHddzjdd7dew5hTs/s1600/lightsail_rs_compressed_med.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="271" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjud0M5P4sWaiVZE-EBLwwMJiVDBgCjfhEPIhbWUmqoHrSgRhHNn7t8prfBQkk65FC-3lvAO1LHGO1jIDic3I71zVLiWOI5S5uZQfNmlgOcF_sPAYE-GSGGOIwyFlNfHddzjdd7dew5hTs/s400/lightsail_rs_compressed_med.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> An artist's depiction of the solar sail spacecraft LightSail-1.<br />
By Rick Sternbach and courtesy of The Planetary Society</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Over the last decade the development of interplanetary spacecraft fitted with solar sails propelled by sunlight, much like sailboats dependant on the wind over a terrestrial sea, has evolved in fits and starts. The solar sail is not a new concept. In 1871 Scottish physicist James Clerk Maxwell postulated that light photons from the Sun exerted a force on exposed surfaces. Three decades later Maxwell´s theory was proved experimentally by the Russian physicist Peter Lebedev. Quantum theory suggests that photons act as small packets of energy with the character of matter. A photon striking a surface thus imparts a bit of momentum. In the 1920s Soviet rocket pioneer Friedrich Zander proposed that photons could propel a spacecraft. The notion of photons exerting a force should not be confused with the much weaker solar wind that gives comets their tails. Proof that solar radiation could be used as means of control and propulsion came in 1974 when the Mariner 10 spacecraft, on a mission to Mercury, was low on fuel. To stretch precious reserves NASA engineers successfully manipulated the pressure on the satellite's solar panels.<br />
<br />
Two recent events have advanced the development of solar sails as a means of propulsion. First, on January 20 NASA deployed the NanoSail-D, a small experimental solar sail spacecraft, into low Earth orbit. NanoSail-D will eventually succumb to drag from the upper atmosphere, re-enter and burn up but not before providing important data on the capabilities of solar sails. The other event occurred in late January when the Japanese Aerospace Exploration Agency (JAXA) announced that it was extending the mission of its IKAROS spacecraft. IKAROS was launched in May 2010 and, partially propelled by solar sails, flew past Venus in December and is now on its way to the far side of the Sun. IKAROS has proved the practically of solar sails for interplanetary travel and gathered much relevant data.<br />
<br />
The acceleration provided by light photons bouncing off the surface of a spacecraft's sails is very slight but given enough time very high speeds can be reached. The more reflective the surface of the sail the more momentum is imparted to it by the colliding photons. A lighter spacecraft has less inertia to overcome so considerable engineering ingenuity is required to cram extendable sails into the smallest and lightest package. A solar sail spacecraft, once blasted into a high earth orbit by a rocket would have no more need for conventional chemical fuels. The same sunlight also works on the spacecraft´s solar panels to produce electricity. The sails are made of ultra-thin aluminium covered mylar that can be folded compactly and stored for launch. Once in space the sails are deployed by either telescoping struts, or, as is the case of IKAROS, by spinning the spacecraft to create centrifugal forces that hold the sails open. The direction of the push, and thus, the spacecraft's trajectory can be controlled by changing the angle of the solar sails with respect to the Sun. <br />
<br />
Later this year another experimental solar sail project is expected to go into space to gather more data. The Planetary Society, a US-based private non-profit organization, hopes to launch its LightSail-1 spacecraft into a high earth orbit. Solar sailing may prove to be more practical for interplanetary travel within the solar system rather than for deep space missions where the strength of the push rapidly diminishes as the craft moves away from the Sun. However, some scientists envision solar sail spacecraft powered by laser beams aimed from Earth. A sort of ongoing shove from the home planet, powering and directing the mission onwards.Xavier Maciahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02233917771081163755noreply@blogger.com0